Mr. Wiggly Foam Bug Variation

This pattern is part of the J. Stockard Flybrary, our organised collection of fly recipes. Browse our full collection of recipes and find something new to tie!

Browse Flybrary

Materials needed 5

Tying difficulty Average

Target species Smallmouth Bass

Fly fishing for smallmouth bass in rivers during the summer can be an exhilarating experience, especially when you're armed with a reliable, easy-to-tie pattern like the Mr. Wiggly foam bug. The original Ol' Mr. Wiggly was developed by Wisconsin smallmouth guide Charlie Piette as a stealthy, low-floating surface pattern for low, clear water conditions in the Midwest, where bass often shy away from the splashy disturbance of traditional poppers. It combines elements of oversized sponge panfish spiders and Western terrestrial patterns for a subtle, natural drift. In this guide, Greg Patterson — shares a variation that has become a staple in his box summer after summer. This is a slightly higher-floating version that's easy to see on the water, with added buoyancy and a shiny, light-refracting foam body that smallmouth bass can't resist.

Materials

Hook: Gamakatsu B10S, size 6
Foam Body: Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam, cut into strips approximately 2.5" long × 0.25" wide
Middle Foam Layer: 2mm craft foam, cut into 2" × 0.25" strips
Thread: 12/0 Semperfli Nano Silk
Legs: Round rubber legs
Wings: Round rubber legs
Sighter: Small rectangle of foam (cut from excess body foam)
Eyes (Optional): Red push pins
Adhesives: Super glue (e.g., Loctite gel superglue)

Learn more about fly tying for Bass, here.

Tying Instructions

Step 1

Prepare the Hook and Foam Body: Place the Gamakatsu B10S size 6 hook in your vise. Take a piece of Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam (approximately 2.5" long × 0.25" wide) and fold it in half to gauge the bug's size. Pro Tip: When piercing the foam, start by piercing the shiny side first at the point where the head of the fly will start. Then pierce the matte side about a shank's length back toward the tail. This orientation ensures the shiny Loco Foam is visible from both the top and bottom of the finished fly, enhancing its light-refracting flash. It also eliminates the need to dub the hook shank. Pierce the foam with the hook point so the body can wrap around the shank. Fold again and pierce a second time, ensuring the holes are about a shank's length apart.

Step 2

Secure the Foam to the Hook: Slide the foam onto the hook shank. Apply a bead of super glue on top of the foam and insert a strip of 2mm craft foam (2" × 0.25") to create a sandwich for added buoyancy. Glue and fold the outer foam around the shank, securing it fully.

Step 3

Create Body Segments: Start at the point where the hook exits the bottom of the foam. Lay the 12 Semperfli Nano Silk thread on top and make one wrap, pulling tension away from you to cinch the foam down. Add 2-3 more wraps and tighten. Apply a dab of Loctite gel superglue to the thread wraps for security. Repeat this process to create 5 segments: one tail, three body, and one head. Each segment is formed by wrapping thread slightly up the shank and pulling down to bulb out the foam.

Step 4

Add Rubber Legs: On the third segment, cut rubber legs to half length then fold in half a second time and cut again for shorter legs. Position two sets around the body, lifting the thread to place them. Pull tight to flare the legs slightly. Secure with additional wraps and tension.

Step 5

Install Wings: For the head segment, use 3 half strands of rubber legs. Tie them in like the smaller legs on the 3rd segment, positioning them slightly higher on the body. Secure with wraps.

Step 6

Finish the Head and Trim: Move the thread to the hook eye, peel back the head slightly, and add tight wraps. Hand whip finish (4-6 loops) to secure, avoiding the legs and foam. Trim excess thread. Shape the tail into a point, leaving it long. Trim legs to body length. Optional Embellishments: Add eyes by dabbing super glue on trimmed red push pins and inserting them into the head.