Thoughts on the Fly

The Jumbo John in Amber and Black is a durable, heavy, high-profile nymph built for steelhead and other strong fish that hold deep and feed with intent. Based on the classic John Barr style, this variation tied by Jeff Deshefy adds a bold two-tone wire abdomen, a full thorax, barred legs, and a soft hen collar for movement and presence in the water.The amber and black wire gives the fly a clean segmented look with just enough flash and contrast, while the tungsten bead and lead wraps help it get down quickly. Fish it as a point fly, under an indicator, or anywhere you need a tough, buggy pattern that can handle current, depth, and repeated takes.Learn more about the fly, and Jeff, here RECIPE • Hook: Tiemco 2457, size 6 • Bead: Wapsi 3/16" gold tungsten bead • Lead Wire: Hareline .020 lead wire • Thread: UTC 70 black and UTC 140 black • Tail: Hareline Goose Biots, Prince Nymph Brown • Abdomen: UTC Ultra Wire, Medium, Amber and Black • Wing Case: Thin Skin, Mottled Bustard in Natural • Wing Case Underlay: UNI Mylar 1/32", #14 Peacock/Orange Optional • Thorax: Dave Whitlock’s SLF Pattern Blends, Brown Stone • Legs: MFC Medium Barred Sexi-Floss, Brown • Collar: Wapsi Soft Hen Hackle, Speckled Brown • Finish: UV resin or epoxy Jumbo John Variant Tying StepsStep 1 Slide the gold tungsten bead onto the hook and secure the hook firmly in the vise. Make 10 to 12 wraps of .020 lead wire around the hook shank. Break off the excess and push the lead wraps snugly forward into the back of the bead. Start the UTC 70 thread directly behind the lead wraps. Step 2 Advance the tying thread rearward into the bend of the hook, stopping just shy of halfway down the bend. Build a small thread bump with about five turns of thread. Tie in two opposing goose biots to form a tail approximately 1/4" long. Advance the thread forward again so it rests directly behind the lead wraps. Step 3 Cut two equal lengths of wire, one amber and one black, each approximately 7.5" long. Position both wires along the near side of the hook shank, directly behind the lead wraps. Place the amber wire beneath the black wire to improve contrast. Secure both strands with tight, even thread wraps, binding them down along the shank to the base of the tail. Advance the UTC 70 thread back to just behind the lead wraps, then tie it off. Start the UTC 140 thread and build a smooth, tapered body, ending approximately one-third of a hook eye length behind the eye. Step 4 Wrap both wire strands forward at the same time to form the abdomen. Maintain firm, even tension to keep the wires aligned and create clean, balanced segmentation. Minor adjustments may be needed as you advance. End the wire wraps approximately one-third of a hook eye length behind the eye. Secure the wire ends and finish with a five- or six-turn whip finish. Step 5 Restart the UTC 70 thread at the point where the abdomen was tied off. Advance the thread rearward until it stops just in front of the hook point. Tie in a strip of Thin Skin approximately 3/16" wide, securing it tightly and keeping it centered on top of the hook shank. Continue wrapping forward to bind down and clean up the Thin Skin tie-in. Step 6 Tie in a 2" length of UNI Mylar with the peacock-colored side facing up. Keep it centered on top of the hook shank and aligned within the Thin Skin. This orientation allows the orange side to show when the material is folded forward over the thorax. Step 7 Create a 3" to 4" dubbing noodle and dub from the rear edge of the Thin Skin forward to the bead. Then work the dubbing back approximately halfway to form a thick, rounded thorax over the front third of the hook. Focus on building a robust profile while leaving a small section lightly dubbed directly behind the bead. With the thread positioned at the midpoint of the thorax, make two or three turns of bare thread to secure the dubbing. Step 8 Remove a single strand of leg material from the hank. Fold it in half and cut the loop to create two equal lengths. Attach one leg to the near side of the hook shank at the midpoint of the thorax, securing it with even wraps. Repeat the process on the far side. Once both legs are secure, create a 2" to 3" dubbing noodle and apply dubbing between the legs, advancing it forward to just behind the bead. Step 9 This step differs from the traditional John Barr method, as the wing case is not folded over yet. Select a speckled brown hen saddle feather. Prepare it by removing the fluffy lower fibers until the remaining barbs are approximately the length of the hook shank. Hold the feather by the tip, stroke the barbs rearward, and clip a small section of the stem to create a clean tie-in anchor. Secure the feather directly behind the bead. Step 10 Grip the stem of the hen saddle feather with hackle pliers or your fingertips. Lift and preen the barbs rearward, then wrap the feather forward around the hook shank, making two full turns. Step 11 Divide the hen saddle hackle barbs evenly along the centerline of the hook shank. Pull the UNI Mylar forward over the thorax and secure it with a few firm wraps. Next, fold the Thin Skin forward, keeping it centered on top of the hook shank, and secure it with five to six additional wraps. Finish the fly with a five- or six-turn whip finish. Step 12 Trim the remaining Thin Skin and UNI Mylar close to the thread. A razor blade can be used for a cleaner, more precise cut. Apply your preferred UV resin or epoxy to the wing case. Work a small amount into the final turns of the wire abdomen to improve durability. Your Jumbo John in Amber and Black is now ready to fish. The finished fly has weight, contrast, movement, and durability, exactly what you want in a hard-working steelhead nymph.

Fly fishing for smallmouth bass in rivers during the summer can be an exhilarating experience, especially when you're armed with a reliable, easy-to-tie pattern like the Mr. Wiggly foam bug. The original Ol' Mr. Wiggly was developed by Wisconsin smallmouth guide Charlie Piette as a stealthy, low-floating surface pattern for low, clear water conditions in the Midwest, where bass often shy away from the splashy disturbance of traditional poppers. It combines elements of oversized sponge panfish spiders and Western terrestrial patterns for a subtle, natural drift. In this guide, Greg Patterson — shares a variation that has become a staple in his box summer after summer. This is a slightly higher-floating version that's easy to see on the water, with added buoyancy and a shiny, light-refracting foam body that smallmouth bass can't resist.Materials Hook: Gamakatsu B10S, size 6 Foam Body: Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam, cut into strips approximately 2.5" long × 0.25" wide Middle Foam Layer: 2mm craft foam, cut into 2" × 0.25" strips Thread: 12/0 Semperfli Nano Silk Legs: Round rubber legs Wings: Round rubber legs Sighter: Small rectangle of foam (cut from excess body foam) Eyes (Optional): Red push pins Adhesives: Super glue (e.g., Loctite gel superglue) Learn more about fly tying for Bass, here. How to Tie the Mr. Wiggly Foam Bug Variation  Mr. Wiggly Foam Bug Variation Tying StepsStep 1Prepare the Hook and Foam Body: Place the Gamakatsu B10S size 6 hook in your vise. Take a piece of Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam (approximately 2.5" long × 0.25" wide) and fold it in half to gauge the bug's size. Pro Tip: When piercing the foam, start by piercing the shiny side first at the point where the head of the fly will start. Then pierce the matte side about a shank's length back toward the tail. This orientation ensures the shiny Loco Foam is visible from both the top and bottom of the finished fly, enhancing its light-refracting flash. It also eliminates the need to dub the hook shank. Pierce the foam with the hook point so the body can wrap around the shank. Fold again and pierce a second time, ensuring the holes are about a shank's length apart.Step 2Secure the Foam to the Hook: Slide the foam onto the hook shank. Apply a bead of super glue on top of the foam and insert a strip of 2mm craft foam (2" × 0.25") to create a sandwich for added buoyancy. Glue and fold the outer foam around the shank, securing it fully.Step 3Create Body Segments: Start at the point where the hook exits the bottom of the foam. Lay the 12 Semperfli Nano Silk thread on top and make one wrap, pulling tension away from you to cinch the foam down. Add 2-3 more wraps and tighten. Apply a dab of Loctite gel superglue to the thread wraps for security. Repeat this process to create 5 segments: one tail, three body, and one head. Each segment is formed by wrapping thread slightly up the shank and pulling down to bulb out the foam.Step 4Add Rubber Legs: On the third segment, cut rubber legs to half length then fold in half a second time and cut again for shorter legs. Position two sets around the body, lifting the thread to place them. Pull tight to flare the legs slightly. Secure with additional wraps and tension.Step 5Install Wings: For the head segment, use 3 half strands of rubber legs. Tie them in like the smaller legs on the 3rd segment, positioning them slightly higher on the body. Secure with wraps.Step 6Finish the Head and Trim: Move the thread to the hook eye, peel back the head slightly, and add tight wraps. Hand whip finish (4-6 loops) to secure, avoiding the legs and foam. Trim excess thread. Shape the tail into a point, leaving it long. Trim legs to body length. Optional Embellishments: Add eyes by dabbing super glue on trimmed red push pins and inserting them into the head.

The Nut Job is a two-section articulated predator fly created by Brendan Ruch, tied here by Jessica Suvak of Girl Talk Live. Built around Fulling Mill marabou, craft fur, rubber legs, and a Changer brush body on articulated shanks, it pushes water effectively and maintains a full, lifelike profile on the strip without collapsing. The tri-color craft fur head — green, yellow, and a touch of orange — gives it what Jess calls a "sherbet popsicle" finish that's hard for fish to ignore.Jess runs it on an Ahrex TP610 Trout Predator hook with a Hairline plummeting tungsten bead up front, connected via wire or hard mono to a tail shank dressed with marabou, schlappen or hen saddle, and rubber legs. The bead adds weight and kick to the movement, though the hook can also be keeled with wire if you prefer to fine-tune the action streamside.Originally tied as a smallmouth pattern, the Nut Job earns its keep on pike too — Jess credits a version of Brendan Ruch's fly with her biggest pike to date. A solid pre-spawn option for bass and toothy critters when fish are looking for something with real bulk and movement.Materials Hooks: Rear - TP610 (size 2 or 4), Front - TP610 (size 1 or 2). Shank: 15mm or 25mm articulated shank. Tail: Marabou. Body/Collar: Fulling Mill brush Legs: Fulling Mill Rubber Legs. Head: Hollow-tied Craft Fur (often stacked/wrapped for bulk). Weight: Hairline 3/16 brass bead Thread: Matching color, 140 denier. How to Tie the Nut Job  

This unweighted zonker-style streamer from Justin Bowman is a versatile baitfish and leech imitation that has proven itself on Midwest smallmouth rivers, driftless trout streams, and big western tailwaters like the Missouri River near Craig. The fly combines the flowing movement of rabbit fur with a lightly built synthetic head and collar, producing a pattern that swims naturally and maintains a lifelike profile without added weight.Justin prefers fishing this fly with different line systems depending on the water. On larger rivers he uses a 7-weight rod paired with a Rio 15-foot Type VI sink tip to get the fly down quickly, while on smaller streams he fishes it on a floating line with various leaders to control depth. Color options are nearly limitless, but black, purple, and orange remain his personal favorite combination. With its flowing rabbit strip tail, flashy collar, and subtle head profile, it’s a fly that will catch fish anywhere predators are looking for an easy meal.This is the ideal fly for pre-spawn, Spring bass fishing, read more about what you need to fly fish for bass, here. Materials Hook: Gamakatsu B10S, size 2 Thread: Veevus GSP 100 denier, black (or white colored with markers) Zonker: 1/8" rabbit fur strip, black Chenille: Medium chenille, black Palmer Material: Medium palmer chenille, black Collar: EP Sparkle Brush, black/purple Head: Senyo’s Laser Dub, black (top) and orange (bottom) Eyes: Flymen Living Eyes, Ice 6 mm Adhesive: Loctite Gel Super Glue or Tear Mender Finish: Loon Thin Clear Fly Finish FLY OF THE MONTH - Sparkle Zonker Tying StepsStep 1 Cut a rabbit zonker strip approximately 3 inches long. Before cutting or tying, wet your fingers and separate the fibers so they part cleanly around the hide. Apply a light coating of super glue to the hook shank before starting the thread. Start the thread near the hook eye and wrap down the shank to the bend, covering the hook and wiping off excess glue if needed. Place the rabbit strip on top of the shank just behind the hook eye and estimate the tie-in point. Separate the rabbit fibers at that spot and secure the strip with two tight wraps of GSP thread. Preen fibers upward before tightening. Step 2 Advance the thread slightly forward and add a few more securing wraps to lock the rabbit strip in place. Then, tie in the palmer chenille first, followed by the medium chenille. Wrap the medium chenille forward to form the body, stopping short of the eye. Secure and trim. Wrap the palmer chenille forward through the body to add movement and texture. Secure and trim the excess. Step 3 Part the palmer chenille fibers on top of the hook and pull the rabbit strip forward over the body. Secure the hide with several tight thread wraps. Trim the excess rabbit hide but leave a small section so the tie-in remains secure. Apply a small drop of super glue and reinforce with additional thread wraps. Step 4 Tie in the EP Sparkle Brush and wrap it forward three turns to form a collar, brushing fibers out as you wrap. Secure and trim. Prepare a small clump of black Senyo’s Laser Dub by stacking the fibers lightly to align them. Tie the clump in at the center so the fibers extend forward over the eye and remain on the top half of the hook. Prepare a clump of orange Laser Dub and tie it in the same way on the bottom of the shank. Whip finish behind the forward-facing Laser Dub fibers and cut the thread. Step 5 Tease the Laser Dub fibers up and down to shape the head. Apply a small drop of super glue or Tear Mender on each side of the thread base and attach the 6 mm eyes. Comb the Laser Dub fibers rearward and apply a thin coat of UV fly finish near the hook eye to lock the head in place. Cure with a UV light.

Todd Turner’s Big Easy Scud blends translucence and subtle movement into a remarkably lifelike scud imitation. Built on a Stretch Glass underbody and finished with sparse split-thread touch dubbing, the pattern captures the natural glow and delicate leggy motion of real scuds—especially in tailwaters where fish see the real thing every day. LEARN HOW TO MAKE TOUCH DUBBING Todd keeps the profile slim and realistic, adding just a hint of orange to suggest egg sacs commonly seen on live scuds. The result is a sparse, light-passing pattern that looks alive in the water without unnecessary bulk or flash. Get the full step-by-step tying instructions and materials list here.

Devon Olsen's Blowtorch is a super tasty little fly in the popular euro nymph competition genre. This one is tied by Tim Flagler of Tightline Productions.Materials Hook: Barbless black jig hook (here a FM5045 Jig Force), sizes 10-16. Head: Copper slotted tungsten bead, 7/64-inch. Weight: Lead-free round wire, .015. Thread: Fluorescent Fire Orange, 8/0 or 70-denier. Tag: Fluorescent Fire Orange Antron yarn. Rib: Green Sulky Holoshimmer Metallic Thread. Body: Peacock herl. Collar: Hen-neck feather fibers. How to Tie the Blowtorch 

I had a question about stage fright lined up. It seemed like a fair one. Tying at a show is a strange kind of performance: a hook in the vise, a small crowd leaning in, and every thread wrap happening in public with no edit button. Then Heather Purvin told us what she does when she isn’t at the vise, and I quietly moved that question down the list. For the past 23 years, Heather has worked as an organ and tissue transplant coordinator with what she describes as the nation’s largest organ procurement organization. Before that, she was a paramedic. On a given day she might be getting a surgeon halfway across the country, or moving a recovered organ from the West Coast to Philadelphia, with hours on the clock and a donor family to look after. “When something crazy happens at a show,” she says, “I’m like, this is nothing compared to what I do on a day-to-day basis.” Fair enough. Next question... Heather picked up fly tying so she could get outdoors with her brother and young nephew, and learned largely from the YouTube videos her brother kept on repeat: the likes of Tim Flagler and Davie McPhail. She spent several years hosting the Delaware Valley Women’s Fly Fishing Association’s table at the International Fly Tying Symposium before sitting down to tie there herself, and she is now a regular demonstration tyer with a particular interest in historic regional patterns that have mostly slipped out of sight. She has also shared her routine for new tyers here on the blog in Fly Tying Tips for Beginners: How to Build a Routine That Actually Sticks. Greg Patterson and I sat down with her to talk about tying in public, getting better at the vise, and why a room full of tyers still beats a screen full of them. With so much tying content online now, how much does tying in person still matter? You probably saw my face when you said AI. Not a fan. I think it pushes aside the creators, the tyers, the makers. The online experience is genuinely important, though. Think of the person in North Dakota whose nearest shop or tying group might be six hours away. We learned that during COVID: having 30 or 40 women from all over the world tying together on Zoom was pretty insane, and for some of them it was the first time they’d had anyone to tie with. But if you have the opportunity, tying in person is a pretty critical part of getting better. I didn’t level up my tying until I was tying with other people, seeing what they were doing and having those face-to-face conversations. And I’d say consider every tyer your peer. There are certainly legends in this community, but you can learn something from everybody, including the person right next to you who’s just starting out. They might have come up with a way to do something you never thought of. At the core, we’re all artists, creators and innovators. Being able to say, “Show me what you’re doing, I want to see that again” is the whole point. You’ve built your show tying around historic patterns. Why go that route? I wanted to focus on something specific at shows, instead of being the person with every tool and material in the kit wondering what to tie. And I thought, I can share a pattern that might otherwise be lost to time. The Catskill Fly Tyers Guild does a great job of honoring the Catskill traditions, so I went looking closer to home: Jack Gartside’s saltwater patterns, like the Gartside Gurgler and the Beast Master, and Pennsylvania’s dry fly heritage. In central Pennsylvania we had George Harvey, who founded the Penn State fly fishing program. He tied a night fly, the Harvey Pusher, and Joe Humphreys caught his state record brown trout on it. Until a couple of years ago there really wasn’t a video of it. It was a paragraph in the second edition of George’s book, with a hand drawing. Ironically, the first photographed step-by-step instruction in fly tying books was done by a woman, Helen Shaw. People see the Pusher and think it’s a big moth dry fly. It’s actually a wet fly that’s swung in the current, anywhere from a size 8 up to a 2/0, for predatory trout that feed in the dark. The concave wings push water and create a vibration, so the fish chases it on feel, not on sight. Whatever colors you tie it in are really for the angler. The fish isn’t seeing the beautiful pheasant feather I’m using. It’s feeling the true form of the fly. George didn’t just make a fly that looked cool. It had a real engineering idea behind it. Does tying in front of a crowd still make you nervous? Yes and no. Pressure is what I deal with day-to-day, but there my audience is my peers or a surgeon, not a forward-facing public. So it’s a little different. I think we all deal with impostor syndrome from time to time, where it’s hard to imagine yourself on the same level as the people sitting next to you. I still get it. I still have that moment of freak-out before I leave the hotel room and go down to sit elbow to elbow with people I’ve looked up to for years. The symposium was the first place I met Cheech and Curtis, and I was too shy to even ask for a picture. how to improve your fly tying Carrying the torch for a pattern like that in public is a risk. Did you lose your mind, or were you inspired? Both. There’s an aspect of crazy to it. George was gone before I started tying, and a lot of people respect that history. You want to do it justice and still be able to say, this is my interpretation. I can’t even replicate his original form, because his wing feathers come from a bird that’s now protected under federal migratory bird law, and I’m not up for going to jail for tying flies. So we adapt, the way we always have. Honor the original materials, then use modern ones to give the pattern modern stature. I’m using synthetic dubbing and chenille in the body where we once might have used rabbit or muskrat. Some purists might curl their lip at my modern cheats, and that’s fine. Fly Tying Tips for Beginners: How to Build a Routine That Actually Sticks Read more In Celebration of Women's Fly Fishing Month Read more Do you tie differently at a show than at your own bench? And what happens when something goes wrong in front of everyone? At the symposium a lot of people are there specifically to learn, so I’m prepared for someone to stop me and say, “Can you show me that?” or “Tell me about your vise.” Depending on where I am in the fly, I’ll say, “Let me get this next turn done,” or throw a quick half hitch before I lose my place. There’s still been a time or two I got sidetracked and forgot to tie the wire in. So I say, “I just missed my wire. Let’s back this out, because I want a sturdy fly.” Sometimes I stop a fly and start over, or put it aside for the burn pile. I share that on purpose, because newer tyers think the pros are tying perfect flies all the time. That’s totally not true. All of us blow flies up, and I don’t care who you are. You have to break thread to learn how to control thread, and have deer hair blow up in your lap while people are watching you. So how do you get from blowing flies up to tying a box you’d be proud of? This is totally a Tim Flagler lesson. Don’t tie 12 flies. Tie 15, and kick aside the three you’re least happy with. Being that critical, saying that tail’s a little short, that body’s a little chunky, that collar doesn’t match the others, is what makes you a better tyer. Absolute beginners can’t do that yet, because they’re barely tying one or two flies at a time. So work up to three at a time, then six. That could take a week or a year. Build in small increments until you can tie 15 and cull the three. Then give those three away. Put them in a donation bucket for Project Healing Waters or Casting for Recovery, or give them to someone at the boat ramp: “Hey, these were working for me.” People did that for me when I was new. Someone handed me sulphurs one evening when I didn’t have that pattern, and I wouldn’t have caught anything otherwise. So I try to pay that back. Who keeps your bench running? J. Stockard was the first place I ever ordered materials from. My brother probably has J. Stockard catalogs from 20 years ago lying around. I remember picking one up and thinking, wait, there’s squirrel? What are you doing with squirrel? I’m a lefty, and there aren’t a lot of lefty vises out there, so the team at Renzetti takes care of me. I rely on Renomed scissors, I’m a big Semperfli Classic Waxed girl, and I don’t leave home without Fulling Mill and Semperfli materials and Ahrex hooks. Your tools, materials and hooks are the foundation of your tying. One of my favorite things at the symposium is saying, “Back in five,” and walking a new tyer across the room to the J. Stockard crew, or to Steve at Regal, and saying, “This is someone new to tying. Can you help him get started?” Or, “Here’s the Classic Waxed, but here’s the Nano Silk and the rest of the line.” It takes a village. Without the businesses and vendors, we’d still be tying with roadkill in a clothespin. Last one. What would you say to a newer tyer who feels they’re not good enough to be in that room? That’s exactly why we’re there. You might feel like your tying isn’t good enough, or you don’t know enough to take a class. But nobody is at the symposium to hide in a corner. We’re there to teach, to share our skills, and to tell you how not to blow up that deer hair, or at least how to try. There’s a steep learning curve in fly tying, and we’re there to make it easier, because we’ve all been on that path. Find Heather on our stand at The International Fly Tying Symposium when it marks its 35th year on November 21 and 22, 2026, in a new home at the Lancaster County Convention Center, 25 South Queen St., Lancaster, PA. Doors open 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Saturday and 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Sunday, with tickets at the gate, cash only. Full schedule, classes and the tyers list are at internationalflytyingsymposium.com. Heather will share a table with Halena Fischer, a former US Youth Fly Fishing Team member now building her guiding career, who tied her first big event at the symposium at around 15. The J. Stockard crew will be there too with Semperfli, Fulling Mill and Ahrex team members in the booth. Come and say hello, or let Heather walk you over.

Somewhere around mid-October, the fly box can start to feel out of step. The size 16 Pheasant Tails that carried the summer may be too small for the larger baitfish patterns many anglers reach for in fall. Depending on where you fish, browns may be approaching their spawn, steelhead may be entering tributaries, and bass may be feeding on baitfish as water temperatures change. Fall can be a good time to fish streamers, though the season looks different across fisheries and regions. Brown trout commonly spawn in autumn, but their movement and willingness to take a fly vary with local conditions. Great Lakes steelhead enter tributaries at different times through fall, while bass may feed on baitfish as water cools. The overlap is useful at the tying bench: a handful of materials can serve several kinds of big, mobile flies. You do not need three completely separate shopping lists to get started. Articulated trout streamers, swung steelhead flies and baitfish patterns for bass can share materials such as shanks, rabbit, marabou, flash and weighted eyes. Each fishery still calls for patterns and hooks suited to its conditions, but a well-chosen core can cover a lot of tying. The short version: a fall streamer pack can start with articulated shanks, rabbit strip, marabou, schlappen, synthetic fibers, weighted eyes, flash and strong thread. Add hooks and tools that match the flies you plan to tie. Big flies put more demand on the bench, so start there. A size 18 midge can be forgiving of a tired setup. A large articulated streamer puts different demands on the bench. Long shanks and heavy hooks need jaws that fit and hold them securely. Bulky materials and heavy thread need a bobbin with a smooth tube and appropriate tension. Synthetic fibers and deer hair can also be tough on fine scissor edges, so keep a separate pair for rough trimming and use your best tips for delicate work. That is why this fall streamer pack starts with tools.  The Vise: Holding Your Hooks Securely For big flies, secure hook holding matters. Streamers can require firm thread pressure and repeated pulling, so check that the vise jaws suit the hook sizes and wire you use. If you tie on long shanks, verify that the jaws can hold them securely; some vises offer interchangeable jaws or heads for different hook ranges. A rotary function can be useful here. Palmering schlappen, wrapping a marabou collar, winding a dubbing brush and inspecting the far side of a fly are easier when you can turn the fly. See how to make the most of your rotary vise. For a closer look at jaw types, mounts and hook ranges, read our fly tying vise buyer’s guide. You can browse the current vise collection as well. How To Make The Most Of Your Rotary Vise Read more Choosing the Right Fly Tying Vise for You Read more C-Clamp vs Pedestal Vise: Which Base Suits The Way You Tie Read more Thread and Bobbin: Built for Pressure Big flies often call for stronger thread. Veevus GSP offers a high strength-to-diameter ratio and lies flat, which can help when spinning hair or securing bulky materials. Danville Flat Waxed Nylon is another established option for larger flies and deer-hair work; its flat profile helps cover a wider area with each wrap. The bobbin matters too. Under tension, thread can catch on a rough or damaged tube, so inspect the tube if your thread starts fraying. For GSP, choose a bobbin with a smooth tube and a tension that feels controlled. If yours is worn, browse the bobbin collection. See Product See Product See Product Scissors: Two Pairs, Not One Streamer materials can be demanding on scissors, especially coarse synthetics and hair. Keep a dedicated pair for rough trimming, and save fine-point scissors for delicate work. A KAI thread snip is handy for quick thread cuts. For more on blade design, steel and pivot tension, read our fly-tying scissor guide, then browse the scissors collection. What Makes For A Good Pair Of Fly Tying Scissors? Read more Everything You Need To Know About Fly Tying Scissors Read more Choosing a Style of Fly Tying Scissors Read more The Small Tools That Do the Heavy Lifting A handful of supporting tools make big flies noticeably easier: A whip finisher that handles large heads comfortably A bodkin for picking out fibers, placing resin and clearing hook eyes A dubbing brush or comb for blending synthetics and teasing out a finished body A hair stacker, if deer-hair heads are on the menu A pair of pliers or side cutters for wire and shank work, so your scissors never see it Most of these live in the fly-tying tools collection. If you are filling several gaps at once, a tool kit may be a convenient option. For a wider look at bench basics, see 4 Essential Fly Tying Tools. A Shared Core for Three Fisheries With the bench sorted, the materials list is shorter than you might expect. Many fall streamers draw on a shared group of components, though each fishery and pattern calls for its own hook, profile and weight. The Core Materials Shanks and hooks. Articulated shanks let you build longer flies with a flexible connection between sections. Streamer hooks and short stinger hooks finish many patterns. For steelhead and other larger fish, the big-game hook collection includes hooks intended for salmon and steelhead. Rabbit strip. Rabbit fur moves readily in the water and is commonly used for streamer tails and bodies. Zonker strips and other rabbit materials are in the fur and hair collection. Marabou and schlappen. These soft feathers are commonly used for tails, collars and movement. Both are in the hackle and feathers collection. Synthetic fiber. Craft fur and EP Fibers are useful for building baitfish profiles. Extra Select Craft Fur has longer fibers than standard craft fur; browse the wider synthetic hair and fibers range for more options. Weight. Dumbbell eyes and cones can help a fly sink and affect how it moves on the strip. Choose the amount and placement of weight for the depth and retrieve you want. Flash. A few strands can add a flash of light to a pattern. The fly-tying flash collection includes Flashabou, Krystal Flash and other materials. Strong thread. GSP or flat waxed nylon, as above. The Wet-Weight Problem One material decision deserves a moment before you order: what your fly weighs once wet. Natural fibers such as rabbit and marabou can hold water, so larger patterns may feel heavier to cast after repeated retrieves. Some synthetic fibers, including craft fur and EP Fibers, absorb less water and can be easier to cast in large profiles. The difference depends on the exact material and how the fly is tied. Neither is right for every pattern. Natural fibers can give a fly a soft, mobile profile; synthetics can help build larger shapes that shed water readily. Mix them according to the action and profile you want. Our bucktail vs. synthetic hair guide explains some of those trade-offs, and if craft fur is on your list, see the prep work many tyers skip. Build Your Pack Around the Fishery Trout: Big Flies for Fall Browns Fall brown trout fishing varies by river and local season. Brown trout commonly spawn in autumn, but it is too broad to say that all large fish become more territorial or aggressive before spawning. Streamers can be worth trying for larger fish, and articulated patterns offer a longer profile with movement from the rear section. Rabbit, marabou and schlappen are common choices for that movement; deer hair or synthetic fibers can shape the head. Olive, white, black and natural brown or yellow are useful starting colors, but local baitfish and water conditions should guide the palette. Some anglers try darker flies in low light. Dumbbell eyes can add weight for deeper presentations, while unweighted flies can suit floating or intermediate lines. From the pack: shanks, stinger hooks, rabbit strip, marabou, schlappen, dumbbell eyes, a little flash. Steelhead: Building on the Same Core Great Lakes steelhead enter tributaries at different points through fall, depending on the river, weather and water conditions. Swinging a fly is one established approach, but anglers also use eggs and nymphs. Intruder-style flies often use a long shank and a trailing hook to create a broad, mobile profile without tying in a large mass of material. Marabou, schlappen and flash are common choices; add a dumbbell eye or cone when you want more weight. Leeches can round out the box. A rabbit-strip leech in black, purple or olive is a familiar steelhead pattern and uses the same rabbit you might buy for trout streamers. Egg patterns are also commonly fished during fall steelhead runs; browse the egg materials collection. From the pack: shanks, steelhead hooks, marabou, schlappen, rabbit strip, flash, eyes or cones. Bass: The Fall Feed As water temperatures change, bass may feed on baitfish, making baitfish patterns a useful part of a fall box. Craft fur and EP Fiber can build broad profiles without taking on as much water as some natural materials. Articulated Game Changer-style flies create a swimming action that can suit a slow retrieve. Larger profiles and Clousers can both be useful, with weight and size matched to the depth and conditions. For more on fishing baitfish patterns through the water column, read Minnow Madness: Why Baitfish Patterns Rule the River. From the pack: shanks, streamer hooks, craft fur, EP Fibers, dumbbell eyes, flash. Tying the Pack: Batches, Not One-Offs Big flies take time, so tying in batches can make the work more manageable. Prep components first: cut rabbit strips to length, pair hackles and rig shanks with their trailing hooks. Then tie the same stage across several flies before moving to the next. This can reduce repeated setup and help keep the flies consistent. And speaking of the bench, Show Us Your Bench is running now. Post a photo of your fall streamer setup, half-finished articulated flies and all, tag J. Stockard and use #ShowUsYourBench. Email the same photo to service@jsflyfishing.com for free shipping on your next order. The offer applies to US orders; see Show Us Your Bench for full details.

Every fly tyer remembers their first vise. Fewer remember the first negotiation over where it was going to live. Maybe it was the dining table, borrowed for one evening that quietly became every evening. Maybe it was a handsome desk with a rounded edge that no clamp on earth could get a grip on. Maybe it was a hotel room the night before a float trip, or a folding table at a club tying night with twelve people, six lamps and one power outlet. The setting changes. The question underneath it does not, and it gets asked far less often than it should: how does the vise actually hold on to the world? There are two main answers. A C-clamp grips the edge of a table and locks the vise in place. A pedestal base is a weighted plate that rests on a stable, flat surface. Plenty of vises can be set up either way, and plenty of tyers end up owning both. But the two are not interchangeable, and the right choice depends less on the vise than on you: where you tie, what you tie, and how often you pack up and move. Here is an honest look at both, and which kind of tyer each one really suits. Why the Base Matters More Than It Looks A vise spends its entire working life resisting force. Every thread wrap pulls on the hook. Spinning deer hair, cinching down dumbbell eyes or locking heavy thread onto a big saltwater hook pulls harder still. And that force is not applied at the base. It is applied at the jaws, up at the top of the stem, which turns the whole vise into a lever with the base as its pivot. That is the mechanical heart of this entire debate. A C-clamp answers the lever by borrowing the stability of the table: once it is tightened down, the vise is effectively anchored to the furniture. A pedestal has to answer the lever on its own, with its weight and the width of its footprint. More weight, a wider plate and a lower working height all help a pedestal resist tipping or sliding. A light base with the jaws set high is easier to shift. Neither design is better in the abstract. Each makes a different trade between stability and freedom, and once you see it that way, choosing gets a lot simpler. The C-Clamp: Pros and Cons The C-clamp is the old-school bench mount, and for good reason. Its strengths: Stability where it counts. For hard-pulling work, a properly tightened clamp on a sturdy table is about as secure as a vise setup gets. The table is the anchor. Height you can dial in. This is one of the clamp's most useful advantages. On many clamp setups, the vise stem slides up and down through the clamp and locks at different heights, so you can position the jaws to suit your body, chair and table. That matters more than it sounds. Jaws set too low can leave you hunching over the hook; jaws set too high can make your shoulders creep upward. Aim for an upright, relaxed position with the hook easy to see and reach. Check the adjustment range on the specific vise, because designs vary. A clear bench surface. The mount stays at the table edge instead of occupying the middle of the work surface, leaving more room for materials, tools, a light and a waste bag. Front-of-bench positioning. Because it mounts at the table edge, the vise sits right at the front of the bench, close to your hands. Small and light to pack. A clamp usually takes up less room in a bag than a weighted plate. Renzetti, for example, offers the Traveler vise in both C-clamp and pedestal configurations. And its weaknesses: It needs the right edge. A clamp only works on a table lip it can grip securely. Very thick tops, strongly rounded or beveled edges, glass, and tables with drawers or a skirt directly underneath can all be a problem. Check the clamp's opening and design against your table before you commit. It can mark furniture. Cranking a clamp down on a finished wooden table can leave a dent or scuff. If the clamp does not already have protective pads, a piece of leather or firm rubber between it and the table can help. It stays where it is. The vise lives wherever that edge is. Sliding it aside for dinner, or chasing better light across the room, means unclamping and reclamping. See Product See Product See Product See Product The Pedestal Base: Pros and Cons The pedestal is a popular choice, especially when a tying space has to do more than one job. Its strengths: It works on almost any stable, flat surface. Kitchen table, desk, tailgate or lodge table: if the surface is level, sturdy and large enough for the base, you can usually tie on it. Seconds to set up, seconds to put away. Set it down and start tying. When you are done, lift it off and the table is a table again. Easy on furniture. Nothing clamps onto the table, and some bases, like our Deluxe Pedestal Base, have a soft foam underside to help protect the surface beneath. Easy to reposition. Slide it toward the window, turn it to suit your reach, move it out of the way mid-session. Small freedoms that add up over a winter of tying. And its weaknesses: Stability depends on weight and footprint. Under heavy thread tension, a lighter or narrower base can slide or tip. Our Flat Pedestal Base weighs about 2.5 pounds, and one customer notes that it can move on the table. A nonslip mat underneath can help, but hard-pulling tyers should consider a larger, heavier base. Working-height adjustment varies. Some pedestal setups let the stem slide through the base or use an optional riser, while others offer less vertical adjustment. The table and chair still do much of the ergonomic work, so check the specific vise and stem length if jaw height matters to you. It takes up bench space. The plate occupies real estate that a clamp leaves free. More stability usually means more weight. That extra mass is useful at the bench, but it is less appealing when you have to carry the base through an airport. Which Base for Which Tyer? Forget which base is “better.” The useful question is which one fits your tying life. Find yourself below. The New Tyer at the Kitchen Table Start with a pedestal or a vise that includes both. When you are new to tying, the vise often has to share space with family life, and the last thing a new hobby needs is a fussy setup ritual. A pedestal lets you tie for twenty minutes after dinner and clear the table in seconds. The J. Stockard EZ Rotary Vise is available with a C-clamp alone or as a bundle that also includes a pedestal base. For a shared table, the bundle gives you flexibility now and later. The Dedicated Bench Tyer Lean C-clamp. If you have a permanent tying station with a solid, suitable edge, a clamp is hard to beat. It leaves the middle of the bench clear and keeps the vise in a repeatable position. Depending on the model, it may also give you useful vertical adjustment. A budget-friendly edge-mounted example is the J. Stockard Rotating Spring Action Vise II, with hardened tool-steel jaws that rotate 360 degrees, spring-operated jaws and brass clamp fittings. If you are building that station from scratch, our guide to setting up a fly tying station is a useful place to start. The Deer Hair, Bass Bug and Saltwater Tyer Lean C-clamp, or choose a genuinely stable pedestal. This is where leverage matters. Spinning and packing deer hair, or applying firm thread tension on a big streamer hook, puts more force through the jaws and mount. A sturdy clamp on a solid table handles that well. A wide, heavy pedestal can also do the job; the Renzetti Traveler, for example, is offered with C-clamp and pedestal choices, including a larger 6-by-6-inch base option. A small, light plate is more likely to move under hard pulling. The Traveling Tyer Consider a kit that includes both. Travel is the one situation where neither base wins outright. A clamp packs smaller but needs a usable edge, and you never know what the lodge furniture will look like. A pedestal works on a suitable flat surface but adds weight. One tidy answer is a compact vise that ships with both. The J. Stockard EZ Travel Vise is a compact rotary vise, about 6 1/2 inches tall, that comes with a weighted base and a C-clamp. The Rambler Nomad Vise with Base takes the same approach, pairing a weighted pedestal with an included C-clamp. The Small-Space or Shared-Home Tyer Go pedestal, with a soft underside. Apartment desks, nice dining tables and multi-purpose rooms are pedestal territory. You cannot always clamp to good furniture, and you should not have to. A base with a protective bottom, like the J. Stockard Deluxe Pedestal Base, keeps the peace: smooth surface, rounded edges and a foam pad underneath. The Club, Class and Demo Tyer Go pedestal. If you tie at club nights, teach a class or demonstrate at shows, you rarely know what the tables will be like until you arrive. A pedestal removes most of that uncertainty. If you already own a clamp-mounted vise you love, you may not need a new vise: the J. Stockard Flat Pedestal Base accepts compatible vise stems up to 3/8 inch in diameter. The “Why Not Both?” Tyer Own both, and stop agonizing. Plenty of experienced tyers keep a clamp on the home bench and a pedestal for everywhere else, swapping the same vise between them. The key detail is compatibility, especially stem diameter. Both J. Stockard pedestal bases accept stems up to 3/8 inch, but check your vise before buying a second mount. Higher up the range, many premium vises are sold in either configuration, so you can choose the base that fits your setup. Browse the PEAK range and the full fly tying vise collection to compare. How To Make The Most Of Your Rotary Vise Read more 5 Reasons Why You Need a Rotary Vise for Fly Tying Read more A Quick Bench Test Before You Buy Before you choose, spend two minutes with the surface you will actually tie on. Check the edge. Is there a firm lip the clamp can grip, with clear space underneath? Measure its thickness and compare it with the clamp's stated capacity. If the edge is strongly rounded, beveled, very thick or blocked by a drawer, lean pedestal. Check the surface. Is this furniture you would mind marking? If so, lean pedestal, or pad the clamp. Check your flies. Mostly small trout patterns? Either base is fine. Lots of hair, big hooks or heavy thread? Lean clamp, or a properly heavy pedestal. Check your posture. Sit at the table in the chair you will actually use. If the hook would sit noticeably too high or too low for a relaxed posture, choose a setup with enough stem-height adjustment or plan to adjust the chair and work surface. Check your habits. Do you pack up after every session, or tie in more than one place? Lean pedestal. Do you have a bench that stays set up? Lean clamp. If your answers split down the middle, that is your sign to choose a vise that comes with both. For a wider look at jaws, rotary action and budget, see our J. Stockard fly tying vise buyer's guide. Nobody ever tied a better fly because of the base under their vise. But plenty of tyers have tied fewer flies because the setup fought them: the clamp that would not fit the table, the base that skated across the desk, the ritual that made a quick session feel like too much effort. Choose the base that suits the place you tie and the flies you tie there. Then forget about it. That is the whole job. Hold still. Get out of the way. Ready to set up your bench?  SHOP VISES

The first Surf Candy I ever finished with UV resin is still in a box somewhere. It is still slightly sticky. I tie mostly saltwater flies, at a bench in Cape St Francis on South Africa's south coast, for fish that have very little respect for my thread work. My boxes are full of things with gaping mouths and enough UV resin to qualify as a small art installation. So when I first swapped the epoxy for UV resin, I thought the hard part was over. Squeeze, shape, click, glass. That was the promise. What I got was a fly with a beautiful clear head that never quite stopped being tacky. Then another one. Then a whole evening's worth, lined up on the windowsill like a row of failed toffees. I did what every tyer does. I blamed the resin. I bought a different resin. Same toffees. It took me longer than I'd like to admit to work out that the resin was never the problem. The light was. I'd been trying to cure big, thick saltwater heads with a little torch that simply didn't have the punch to get through all that resin. The day I finally used a proper curing light, the heads went hard right through, the layers bonded cleanly, and I stopped leaving flies out in the sun and hoping for the best. Here's what I've learned since: this isn't just a saltwater problem. The trout tyer coating a Perdigon, the bass tyer building a popper face, the beginner sealing the head of a first Woolly Bugger, we're all relying on the same chemistry and the same little purple light. Get the match right and UV resin is the closest thing to a magic trick at the bench. Get it wrong and you get toffees. So this is the guide I wish I'd had. Whether you've tied three flies or three thousand, pull up a chair. The short answer: UV resin is a liquid coating that hardens in seconds under ultraviolet light. Most tyers only need a thin resin, a thick resin and a curing light that's strong enough and matched to the resin's wavelength. The light matters as much as the bottle. Not only a saltwater problem.  What is UV resin, and why do fly tyers use it? UV resin is a liquid coating that stays workable until you expose it to ultraviolet light, at which point it hardens in seconds. That single quality is why it has taken over so many benches. Traditional head cement dries in the air on its own schedule, and two-part epoxy starts the clock the moment you mix it. UV resin waits for you. On a fly, that patience translates into three jobs: Protection. A coat over thread wraps and heads keeps teeth, rocks and casting from unraveling your work. Shape. Thicker resins build heads, bodies, shells and eyes, adding profile you couldn't get from thread alone. Fixing. A drop can lock materials in place mid-tie, secure a stick-on eye, or rescue a fly that's started to come apart. If you tie for toothy fish, you already know why this matters. In my Ultimate Guide to Tying Bluefish Flies, resin is the difference between a fly that survives a bluefish and one that comes back as a bare hook. See Product See Product See Product Why the light matters as much as the resin Here's what I wish someone had told me before my windowsill full of toffees. UV resin doesn't really dry. It cures. Most fly tying resins contain a photoinitiator, a compound that absorbs light at particular ultraviolet wavelengths and kicks off a reaction that links the liquid into a solid. No light at the right wavelength, no reaction. That's why the resin sits patiently in the bottle, and why your choice of torch matters as much as your choice of resin. Wavelength is measured in nanometers (nm), and the lights tyers use typically sit in the upper end of the UV range. The J. Stockard UV Light emits at 385 to 400nm, Loon's UV Bench Light runs at 395nm, and Loon's UV Infiniti Light covers 395 to 405nm. The practical takeaway is simple: use a light the resin maker recommends, or one that matches their stated wavelength. Power matters too. A weak or fading light, or one held too far from the fly, may leave the surface soft or sticky even when the resin underneath has set. Upavon says as much about its own Sure Set UV Torch, which is built to cure fully "without the tacky surface that underpowered torches leave behind." With some formulas, oxygen in the air can also slow the cure at the very surface. If you've ever finished a beautiful head that stayed faintly tacky, one of those is the likely culprit, not you. See Product See Product See Product Thin, thick, flex or tack-free: which UV resin should you buy? Resins are sold mostly by viscosity, which is just a measure of how runny they are. Think of it as choosing between water, honey and toothpaste. Thin resins flow into thread wraps and soak into materials, leaving a light, hard coat. They're the everyday choice for whip finishes, heads on trout flies and sealing thread bodies. Try Solarez Fly Tie Thin Hard Formula, or the thin or ultra-thin "flow" versions of Loon UV Clear Fly Finish. Semperfli No Tack UV Thin, described as having "the viscosity of light honey," is handy for locking down bucktail or hair as you tie, without building bulk. Thick resins stay where you put them, which makes them the tool for building shape: baitfish heads, shellbacks, bodies and eyes. Solarez Fly Tie Thick Hard Formula is the bench standard here, and Loon's thick UV Clear Fly Finish does the same job. Flexible resins cure with some give, so they suit soft bodies, swimming tails and anything that needs to bend without cracking. Look at Solarez Fly Tie Flex Formula. Tack-free resins are formulated to cure to to cure to a dry, glossy surface with no wiping. Solarez Fly Tie Bone Dry cures, in Solarez's words, "to a clear, hard, glossy finish in under 10 seconds," and Upavon Crystal Coat UV Resin is built for Perdigon bodies and slim nymph heads where a glassy finish is part of the design. If you're not sure where you'll land, the Solarez Fly Tie 3 Pack is the friendliest place to start: Thin Hard, Thick Hard and Flex in 5 gram tubes, enough to find out what you actually reach for before you commit to bigger bottles. Which UV curing light do you need? You don't need the most powerful light on the market to tie good flies. You need one that's strong enough for the resin and the size of fly you tie most. Getting started: The J. Stockard UV Light is a simple LED flashlight made to cure all the UV coatings J. Stockard sells. The Loon UV Nano Light is pocket-sized, which Loon pitches as "an excellent option as an economical light for tyers just getting started." Everyday bench use: Loon's UV Bench Light is its best-selling "do-it-all" light, a 3-watt, 395nm torch with a high-intensity beam. Heavy use and big flies: The Loon UV Infiniti Light is a 10-watt, USB-rechargeable light Loon describes as its most powerful. The Upavon Sure Set UV Torch is a dedicated curing light paired with Crystal Coat. Travel: The Solarez PRO Roadie Kit bundles a half-ounce resin assortment with a UVA flashlight, a sensible box for the truck or the road. How do you get a clean, clear cure? A few habits will save you a lot of sticky, lumpy heads: Go thin and build in layers. Two or three thin coats, each cured, look cleaner and cure more reliably than one thick glob. Let the vise do the work. Rotating the fly as you apply resin keeps the coat even and stops it pooling on the underside. If you tie on a rotary, here's how to make the most of your rotary vise. Tack it, then finish it. Solarez suggests that with its Thick Hard Formula, a 30 second partial cure lets you keep working, while a full cure takes around three minutes with a flashlight or exposure to sunlight. Check each resin's own guidance. Get the light close. Hold the torch near the fly and move it around so every surface gets a direct hit. Keep the bottle in the shade. Sunlight cures UV resin too, so cap your bottles and keep them out of a sunny window. Look after yourself. Don't look directly into a UV light, keep resin off your skin, and tie somewhere with decent airflow. Follow the safety notes on each product. The Surf Candy: where it all clicks If you want one fly that shows off what resin can do, tie a Surf Candy. Bob Popovics' classic baitfish pattern is basically a slim wing of synthetic fiber encased in a clear, hard shell, with eyes set into the coating. It was originally built with epoxy, and UV resin has made it far more approachable: no mixing, no racing the clock, and no rotating drying wheel. It's also a lovely lesson in viscosity. A thin resin locks the wing down, a thick resin builds that glassy, translucent body, and a final thin coat polishes it. As I put it in the bluefish guide, you coat the whole thing "until it feels like a saltwater lollipop."  Where should a beginner start? Keep it simple. One Solarez Fly Tie 3 Pack, one J. Stockard UV Light or Loon UV Nano Light, and a dozen woolly buggers or simple nymphs to practice on. Coat a few heads with thin resin. Build one shellback with the thick. Ruin one fly on purpose to see what too much resin looks like. You'll learn more in that one evening than from any guide, this one included. And if you've been tying for years and still reach for head cement out of habit, try a bottle of Bone Dry or Crystal Coat on your next batch of nymphs. You may not go back. My windowsill is toffee-free these days. The Surf Candies come off the vise hard and glassy, the lights live within arm's reach, and I spend a lot less time blaming perfectly good resin. If there's one lesson from the whole journey, it's that fly tying is about light more than we give it credit for: the light you tie by, and the light you cure with. Which is exactly why I want to see yours. Show Us Your Bench is J. Stockard's annual community showcase, and it isn't a competition. No judges, no prize for the tidiest desk. Just real benches, as they really are. Show us the window you tie by, the lamp you finally upgraded, the clip-on light on your vise stem and the curing torch that ended your own toffee era. If your bench could use a better light, the cordless Zephr Fly Tying LED Light clamps straight onto a 3/8 inch vise stem. Here is how to get involved:  Take a photo of your bench as it really is. No need to clean up. The half-finished fly, the pile of hackle, and the coffee mug are all welcome. Post it on Instagram or Facebook and tag us. Use the hashtag #ShowUsYourBench.  Tag two of your fly tying mates and challenge them to post there benches. (Purely optional but the idea here is classic - the more the merrier.) Tell us a little about it. Where your bench lives, what you tie most, and the one tool you'd grab first if the house caught fire. Email it to us for free shipping. Send the same photo to service@jsflyfishing.com and you'll receive free shipping on your next J. Stockard order. *Applies to orders within the USA only.  Browse UV resins, head cements and glues The Ultimate Guide to Tying Bluefish Flies Read more Fly Fishing For Spring Stripers - timing the migration and what flies to have ready Read more

Baitfish fly patterns that pre-spawn bass actually eat: matching forage size and color, dialing in sink rate, and the fluttering pause that gets a strike.

Craft fur shows up in more fly boxes than almost any other synthetic on the bench, and for good reason: it's inexpensive, it's durable, and it moves in the water in a way that convinces fish it belongs there. What doesn't show up nearly as often is a clear explanation of why two tyers can use the same bag of craft fur and end up with two very different flies. The difference isn't the material. It's the prep. That's the gap McFly Angler's Shawn McQuadeset out to close in a recent video breakdown, walking through how he selects, cleans, and manages craft fur before it ever gets tied to a hook — including how removing underfur, adjusting taper, and choosing the right variation of craft fur changes what the finished fly looks and swims like. Who is Shawn McQuade Shawn McQuade is the tier and teacher behind McFly Angler, an educational fly-tying channel that has grown to nearly 70,000 subscribers across YouTube and other platforms, with hundreds of tutorials spanning beginner technique through advanced pattern work. McQuade's path to the vise ran through fishing boats and fly shop counters before it ever ran through a camera — a background that shows up in how practically he talks about materials. Beyond the channel, McQuade teaches fly tying and fly fishing classes for disabled veterans through the Enduring Freedom Organization, and works each summer with kids through Reaching Outdoors camps, introducing a new generation to the vise and the water. Craft fur isn't one material — it's three The first thing McQuade's video makes clear is that "craft fur" isn't a single, interchangeable product. Standard craft fur, Extra Select Craft Fur, and Salty Craft Fur each behave differently off the hide, and matching the right one to the fly in front of you saves a lot of frustration at the vise. Extra Select Craft Fur is the step up in fiber length and density, built for larger streamer and baitfish patterns that need real bulk and movement. Salty Craft Fur is built with saltwater durability in mind, standing up to repeated casting and toothy fish without breaking down at the tie-in point. Standard craft fur remains the workhorse option for general streamer, shrimp, and crab pattern work. Cleaning and managing the underfur Every hide of craft fur carries a layer of soft underfur beneath the longer guard hairs, and what a tier does with that underfur has a direct effect on the finished fly. Left in, it adds fullness and a denser silhouette — useful on the belly of a baitfish pattern where a little extra bulk reads well in the water. Combed or picked out, it leaves only the longer fibers, which produce a sparser, more mobile profile suited to sleeker streamer and shrimp patterns. McQuade's approach is to make that choice deliberately rather than by default: decide what profile the fly needs first, then manage the underfur accordingly, rather than tying every pattern with fur straight off the hide. Adjusting the taper Craft fur fibers taper naturally from base to tip, and trimming that taper changes how the material behaves once it's wet. A bundle left at full length swims with a long, trailing action well suited to larger streamers and articulated baitfish patterns. Trimming the tips shortens the taper and tightens up the profile, which works better on smaller, more compact patterns where a fly-length tail would overwhelm the proportions. The same logic applies to how the fur is tied in — tips forward and folded back "hollow fly" style for a fuller, rounded profile, or tips back for a straighter, more streamlined silhouette. Neither approach is universally correct; the fly being tied should dictate the choice. See Product Where craft fur earns its place at the vise The versatility that makes craft fur a bench staple comes through across pattern types. On streamers and baitfish imitations, it delivers the long, undulating movement that makes a fly look alive on the pause. On shrimp and crab patterns, trimmed sections mimic legs and antennae with a level of realism that's hard to match with natural materials at the same price point. And for tiers building large synthetic brushes, craft fur — spun into a dubbing loop — produces a full, mobile brush body that holds up through repeated casting. Understanding how each variation and each prep choice changes that movement is what separates a fly that looks right on the bench from one that fishes right in the water. Watch the full breakdown In short Craft fur has been a fly-tying staple for long enough that it's easy to reach for a hide and tie it the same way every time. Shawn McQuade's breakdown is a reminder that the material rewards a little more attention than that — a few extra minutes deciding what to keep, what to trim, and which variation belongs on which fly pays off in flies that swim the way they're supposed to. Shop the full range of craft fur and synthetic tying materials below:  "Craft fur" covers three distinct materials — standard, Extra Select, and Salty Craft Fur — each suited to different patterns and conditions Underfur is a choice, not a default: leaving it in adds bulk and fullness, combing it out produces a sparser, more mobile profile Trimming the taper shortens and tightens the fiber profile for smaller, more compact patterns; full-length fibers suit larger streamers and articulated baitfish Tips-forward "hollow fly" style versus tips-back changes the fly's silhouette and should match the pattern being tied Craft fur works across streamers, baitfish imitations, shrimp and crab patterns, and dubbing-loop brushes — the prep is what makes it fit each application SHOP CRAFT FUR

Show us your fly tying bench, messy, tiny, or immaculate. Join the J. Stockard community showcase and email your photo for free shipping on your next order.

The goal of this blog is to share some of the successful strategies I have learned over the years for fly-fishing at night and to provide some tips learned the hard way that can increase your success and make your time on the water more enjoyable. The approaches presented in this two-part blog address night fishing as follows: Part 1. Using surface flies Part 2. Using sub-surface flies (i.e. streamers, wooly buggers, girdle bugs, etc.) fished on sink-tip lines.  There are a limitless number of ways to catch trout. The strategies and concepts presented in this blog represent a mere drop in an ocean of information available today for success in trout fishing. Every time I talk with someone on the river, I am amazed that after almost 50 years of stream trout fishing, I learn something new from everyone I meet. I humbly provide my limited experiences in night fishing in the hopes that that they will accelerate your learning curve on how to excel in this wonderful hobby. In this first part, the focus is on safety tips, parameters for choosing surface flies, and going through some surface flies I have found to be productive. In the second part, the focus is on parameters for choosing sub-surface flies, going through some sub-surface flies I have found to be productive, and sharing some hard-earned tips for do's and don'ts while night fishing. Why Fish at Night? There are at least two good reasons to fish for trout at night. First, fishing at night ups your odds of landing larger trout as they often feed during darkness when they are safer from predators. Secondly, when summer water conditions are low and very clear, it can be very difficult to catch fish during daylight hours as the fish become impossibly skittish. Fishing at night relieves that problem and can be quite productive. As an example, last week I started in a shaded run before sunset and did not see or flush any fish for nearly 2 hours. An hour and fifteen minutes after sunset, the switch turned on and I caught 12 fish between 15" and 11" inches in an hour and a half! When Is it Dark? Dark begins roughly between 1-1 ½ hours after sunset at night and ends roughly the same amount of time before sunrise in the morning. Details on why this is the case were presented in a previous blog, "When Is It Really Dark." Please refer to that if you wish to know more.  A Word on the Leader Unlike daytime fishing where the tippet size and length of the leader is critical to your success, at night the fish are not leader shy. A 5-foot leader made up of equal lengths of 20-pound and 10-12 pound-test monofilament or fluorocarbon is sufficient. Each has its own benefits; monofilament is more supple while fluorocarbon is more abrasion resistant. If you are like me, I use whatever I have on hand. The shorter leader is helpful for turning over the bigger flies you will be using and will hold up when you hook a big brute! Before getting into the thick of things, let's review some safety guidelines.  SAFETY CONCERNS  If you are going to try fishing in the dark these are some important safety guidelines to make the outing enjoyable and safe. I have not gotten into trouble yet but I have gotten close enough to realize the following are good “rules of thumb” while fishing in the dark.  1. Unless you are being guided, it is highly preferable to fish areas of a river that you have waded previously and are familiar with the location of deeper holes and other hazards. Fish with a friend if you can. If you are going to fish alone, tell someone where you are fishing and the approximate time you intend to start and finish. If there has been a significant rain in the previous 2-3 days check on-line for stream data for river gage height to see if it is safe to fish. Alternatively, arrive at the river early enough determine if it is safe for night fishing, or wait for enough light in the morning to determine whether it is safe to fish. If there is a significant rain occurring while you are traveling to the river watch the river height carefully while you are fishing. If it rains hard enough, run-off can come through in a tsunami-like fashion.  If you are fishing a tailrace fishery near a dam, pay very close attention to the water level as it can rise rapidly when the gates are opened. This is increasingly important the closer you are to the dam.  Do not fish if you have seen lightening or heard thunder in the last half hour. This is especially important if you are fishing in the mountains where weather changes occur more rapidly. Many fishermen have been killed fishing while it is lightening. Choosing Between Surface and Sub-Surface flies Keep in mind the old adage, "rules are made to be broken" holds in any type of fishing. However, the following generalizations are guidelines I have developed and found productive as I continue exploring fishing at night. First, and foremost, let the fish tell you what they want. It is easy to fall into the trap of thinking you know what the fish want because yesterday I slayed them on _________, you can fill in the blank with the fly you used. If you are not getting takes on surface flies after trying three or four different types, switch to sub-surface flies and vice-versa if you start with sub-surface flies.  Let's say you start with surface flies. I give each fly 10-15 minutes to produce a take or two. If nothing happens, it's time to try a different style surface fly. If I don't get a few takes after 30-45 minutes using 2-3 different flies, I switch to sub-surface flies. These same guidelines apply when you start with sub-surface flies. If nothing happens after 30-45 minutes using different colors and styles of sub-surface flies, I switch to surface flies. That's why I bought a new reel so I could have three spools. One is set-up with a dry fly line, one with a short sink-tip line, and one with a longer faster sinking sink-tip line. It takes me 6-8 minutes to switch over in the dark. I timed myself several times to convince myself it doesn't take that much time. Using Surface Flies while Fishing at Night The Influence of Water Temperature: Surface flies tend to work best from late spring to early fall. The water temperatures in this period run from the upper 50's to the upper 60's. (It is not recommended to fish when the water exceeds 68° Fahrenheit as the stress on the fish as you play it can be lethal.) It is always worth trying these any time of the year. However, don't spend too much time with them if you are not getting any action.  The Different Types of Takes on a Surface Fly:  Takes can vary from hearing nothing on the take and the fish is all of a sudden on to an audible kerplunk like someone dropped a medium-sized rock into the water.  No Sound Takes: It is fairly common to hear nothing and all of a sudden feel the weight of the fish on the line. When this happens, you don't need to set the hook, just keep the line tight. The fly will seat itself as you play the fish. I use barbless flies for ease of catch-and-release on the fish and myself. They penetrate faster than barbed hooks. My experience has been I lose more fish trying to set the hook in these instances. My theory is that as you try to set the hook, no matter how hard you try not to, you move the rod slightly forward to get more oomph into the hook set. That creates a momentary slack in the line which allow the fish to get off. Kerplunk Takes: These are the most fun and often mean it is a larger fish. When you hear the big kerplunk take, steel yourself, you have to wait until the fish turns after the take before setting the hook. Last week I made a cast and the line got fouled on my vest. I was busy trying to free the line when I heard a kerplunk take. It took a second or two to find the end of the fly rod and set the hook. The fly was entirely in the fish's mouth and lodged under its tongue. It was a good reminder that waiting to set the hook in these cases is the way to go. Bloop Takes: Many of the takes on a surface fly make a sound like when you purse your lips together behind your teeth and pop your lips out and away at the same time. It is often quite soft, but it is very distinct bloop-type sound. It can be difficult to recognize the sound when you are near riffles or when the wind is jostling leaves. I fished three times with a guide and spent most of each night with him asking me, "Did you hear that?" Eventually, I told him, "If I had heard it, I would have set the hook." He thought that was pretty funny. I finally heard the sound several outings later on a windless night in the middle of a deep slow stretch. As soon as I heard it, I thought, "Hey, that's probably a take!" and set the hook. Having the thought and deciding to set the hook gave just enough of a delay that I hooked the fish. Now that I know what the sound is, I can hear it behind me when I am fishing a hatch during the day.  Splashy Misses: These are annoying more than anything. I have tried setting the hook as soon as I can and delayed for a couple of seconds and rarely hook a fish on these takes. I recently read a blog where the author suggested that these are most often smaller fish that are trying to kill the fly so they can take it on a second attempt. This assuages my ego for missing nearly all of these and it sounds like a reasonable explanation. So, I have elected to accept it with no supporting evidence other than I rarely hook fish on these takes. Some successful surface flies for night fishing. Clockwise  from the upper left: #4 Chernobyl Ant; #6 Ger's Mouse; #10 Killer Beetle; and #2 Black Gurgler It seems like almost anything will work on the surface. You will notice that the Gurgler is about 2 inches long and the Killer Beetle is around 3/4". On any given night one of these may be preferred. It is a good idea to cycle through each of these until you find one that is working. Also, the preference may be different in different stretches of the river on the same night. I have not found color to be super important. However, I have no doubt that occasionally it will be. I have avoided the traditional spun deer hair mouse patterns as they are harder to cast and prone to being blown around by the wind. All of these are fairly compact and cast reasonably well. I just recently ran across the Morrish Mouse fly. Unlike traditional spun deer hair mouse flies, it is flatter and more compact. I decided to test it out and discovered it not only cast reasonably well, it also caught fish. It had been a somewhat slow evening and nothing had happened for the last 20 minutes or so. I had decided if nothing happened on the next cast, I was going to call it an evening and go home. After two strips with no sound at all, my rod bent over and the line began to hum. Bigger fish often pull the line taut enough to cause this line hum so that was a good sign. It took a while before I saw the fish and immediately I knew it was a good fish. As I tried to lift the net, it became quite evident there was some heft to the fish. It turned out to be a big fat 18" brown with a bulge in its stomach! Even though the fish had clearly eaten it was still on the prowl.  Catching this fish also reinforced the need to vary the retrieve until you find what triggers the fish. Earlier in the outing, it was sufficient to slowly strip the fly and jostle the rod tip to trigger takes. Eventually, that style of retrieve stopped producing takes. I tried a series of different retrieves and discovered that a hard short strip with a short pause retrieve started producing splashy misses. So, I stuck with that retrieve even though the fish weren't getting hooked. Perseverance paid off with the as it eventually produced the biggest fish of the night. It converted a decent outing into an outstanding one.  The pictures below show the size of the fly, how the fish chewed up the new fly, and how the fly produced line twist in my leader. Initially, there was no observable line twist with a 2X tippet which is 10-pound test . However, as the evening progressed, I started seeing some line twist which worsened to the point that after catching the 18" brown my line caught the rod during my false casting and produced the tangle shown in the last picture. Apparently, the wings of the fly caused the line to twist. When you see this, go up one or two tippet sizes until the twisting is no longer observed. After several tries, I determined that using 2 ½ feet of the butt section of a 2X leader with 2 feet of 25-pound test tippet prevented line twist with the Moorish Mouse. Most other flies will not require such a heavy leader to avoid line twist. New (left) and used (right) Morrish Mouse flies Line twist resulting from using a morrish mouse fly for one night Earlier this summer I missed what I thought was a good fish and came back the next night and fished the same spot earlier in the evening to no avail. I came back 2 ½ hours later and recast the same fly. The water exploded as the fly hit the water. It turned out to be a gorgeous 17" brown that fought like a 20+-inch fish. This points out the importance of covering known good spots well and more than once on the same evening.  17" Brown caught on a #4 Peacock Herl Caddis (inset picture)  I used the same Peacock Herl Caddis on the night I caught 12 fish between 15" and 11" inches in an hour and a half after catching nothing before dark. A week later, in a different portion of the stream, nothing was interested in it. I switched to a large Chernobyl Ant and immediately started getting fish!  Ger's mouse (named after the guide that taught me how to night fish) has been a staple and seems to work most nights. The weird part is it seems like the more the fly gets battered, the better it works. Below is a picture of a battle-worn Ger's mouse that keeps catching fish besides an unused new fly. I have no idea why this is true, but the fish love the beat-up version! So, I intend to keep using it until I lose it or everything falls off the hook! Beat up Ger's Mouse (left) vs. an unused version (right) A few years ago, I took my son night fishing on October 15th, the last day of our season. We started shortly before sundown and it had been a fairly slow until just past sunset. He could barely see the fly but it didn't matter as this 15" brown in full spawning color did a kerplunk take. Ben set the hook and the rest was history! Persistence eventually pays! The author's son with a gorgeous 15" pre-spawn brown caught at night on the last night of our season When to Switch to Sub-Surface Flies: Obviously, if you aren't getting any takes, it's a good idea to switch to sub-surface flies. The tougher situation is when you are getting takes but the fish are getting off frequently. This is usually an indication that the fish are not fully committed and it's time to go to sub-surface flies. There have been outings where the fish in different runs preferred different presentations requiring two or more changes between surface and sub-surface flies. Fortunately, these have not been that common in my experience.  Hopefully, Part 1 has equipped you to know when to use surface flies and get you started with some flies that have worked well for me. Let me know if you have any questions in comment section below.  In Part 2 we will focus on parameters for when to use sub-surface flies, going through some sub-surface flies I have found to be productive, and sharing some hard-earned tips for do's and don'ts while night fishing.

Build a complete trout setup with Cortland fly line, leader and tippet designed to work together. A simple, budget-friendly system for weekend anglers.

I’m going to be completely upfront with you: I am not here to preach the one true gospel of fly leaders. If there’s one thing I’ve learned on the water, it’s that leader mechanics are deeply personal. Everyone has a unique casting stroke, tempo, and loop shape. A leader that turns over like a dream for my casting style might feel completely clunky to yours. I wrote this piece because when I first started diving down the leader-building rabbit hole, I was just looking for a solid starting point. This article is simply a summary of my own real-world experiments on the water, the lessons I’ve gathered from anglers far smarter than me, and the basic frameworks that have worked for my fishing. Consider this an open invitation to experiment, tweak, break the rules, and find what works for you. My hope is that this serves as a helpful baseline. The Core Philosophy: Working Backwards The most important concept to grasp when building a custom leader is simple: your leader is a delivery system. Its sole job is to transport a specific fly to a specific fish and maintain the correct type of contact once that fly hits the water. When anglers struggle with leaders, it’s usually because they start building from the fly line forward. Instead, the secret to a high-performance custom leader is to work backwards: Start at the Fly: What fly am I delivering, and how does it need to behave in the water column? Consider the Fish & Habitat: What species am I targeting, and what structure (rocks, timber, heavy currents) am I dealing with? Choose the Tippet: Select a tippet material and breaking strength that handles the fly's weight, resists abrasion, and stays stealthy enough for the environment. Design the Taper & Butt: Construct the mid-section and butt section to drive that specific fly smoothly through the air based on your fly line and casting stroke. See Product See Product See Product The Three Connections to the Fly Depending on your retrieve style, target depth, and line setup, your leader needs to create one of three distinct connection types with your fly: 1. The Direct Connection (Tight-Line / Stripping) The Scenario: Fishing sink-tips or full-sink lines pulling streamers, Clousers, or baitfish patterns for aggressive river smallmouth or coastal predators. The Goal: A straight, taut, low-stretch link between your hand and the fly for instant leverage on a strip-set. The Build Concept: Short, heavy, stiff leaders (4.5 to 7.5 feet). When pulling heavy flies on a sinking line, energy transfer is already being handled by the heavy line itself. In these setups, a simple, straight 4-foot piece of 12lb to 20lb fluorocarbon is a completely viable, high-performance leader. There’s no complex taper required—just a direct, ultra-durable link that gives you maximum leverage. 2. The Indirect Connection (Sub-Surface / Controlled Slack) The Scenario: Fishing weighted crawfish patterns, jigs, or heavy nymphs along a rocky river bottom using a floating fly line. The Goal: Controlled slack that allows the fly to sink and swim naturally while keeping you in touch with subtle strikes. The Build Concept: Moderate length (7.5 to 9 feet) with a supple mid-section. Alternatively, simplicity often wins here too: running a straight 4-to-6-foot piece of 12lb to 20lb fluorocarbon straight to a craw pattern works exceptionally well. It lets the heavy fly pull the line down naturally without complex hinge points, giving you just enough controlled slack to work the bottom while maintaining tactile contact. 3. The Subtle Connection (Topwater / Drag-Free Presentation) The Scenario: Poppers, deer hair bugs, or subtle surface patterns where drag-free drifts or delicate twitches are critical. The Goal: Controlled S-curves or micro-slack in the leader upon landing so surface current doesn't immediately drag the popper out of the strike zone. The Build Concept: Longer leaders (8 to 10+ feet) with steep step-down tapers that intentionally bleed off excess turnover energy right at the end of the cast, laying the fly down cleanly with a touch of slack. Anatomy & Mechanics: Stiffness Over Diameter Every hand-tied tapered leader relies on a fundamental balance of mechanics, traditionally organized around the 60/20/20 Rule (60% Butt Section, 20% Taper Section, 20% Tippet Section). However, the biggest mistake anglers make when selecting material for that 60% butt section is trying to match its physical diameter to the thickness of their fly line. In reality, diameter doesn't drive turnover—stiffness does. As Brian Flechsig of Mad River Outfitters highlights from legendary angler and guide Flip Pallot, the secret to a high-performance leader butt section is that it should be just slightly stiffer than the tip of your fly line. Think of your fly line and leader as a single continuous whip. If the butt section of your leader is softer or more flexible than the end of your fly line, casting energy hits a wall. The connection "hinges," losing velocity and causing your leader to drop short in a tangled heap. By choosing a hard, stiff monofilament for your butt section that matches or slightly exceeds the rigidity of your fly line tip, the leader acts as a seamless extension of the line itself. Butt Section Starting Points A great rule of thumb when choosing butt section material based on rod weight: 6wt to 8wt Rods: Start with 40 lb test hard mono for your butt section. 8wt to 9wt Rods (and heavy sink tips): Step up to 50 lb test hard mono. That said, don't be afraid to experiment. On my 7/8wt setup, I've spent a lot of time running a 50 lb test butt section and have been extremely pleased with how cleanly it turns over heavy flies without hinging. Materials & Real-World Entry Points When you start digging into custom tapers, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer variety of spools on the market. To be completely honest, when I first went down this leader-building rabbit hole, I didn't start with high-end specialized spools. I  bought an inexpensive multi-pack of hard mono and fluorocarbon spools, and started experimenting. Was it top-tier competition material? No. But it got me tying, testing knots, and learning how different diameters and stiffnesses behaved on the water without breaking the bank. Once you understand the mechanics and want to step up your leader builds, you don't have to search far—we carry all the core battle-tested materials right here at J. Stockard: For Stiff Butt Sections (Energy Transfer):  Cortland Copolymer Nylon: Exceptional stiffness and high abrasion resistance, making it an ideal choice for driving energy straight out of your fly line tip into heavy streamer and popper builds. RIO Hard Mono: Formulated specifically for building heavy butt sections and warmwater/saltwater tapers that resist memory and hold up to powerful casting strokes. For Taper & Transition Sections (Versatility): Maxima Chameleon: A true legend in the leader-building community. It has unmatched knot strength, just enough rigidity to aid turnover, and a unique tint that breaks up visibility in murky or stained river currents. Scientific Anglers Premium Mono / RIO Powerflex: Supple nylon options that knot easily, retain good tensile strength, and handle smoothly throughout mid-section transitions. For Tippets (The Business End): Seaguar Fluorocarbon (Red Label / Blue Label / STS): A personal favorite for subsurface tippets. It offers absurd abrasion resistance against river bed rocks, submerged wood, and smallmouth teeth while sinking fast. Scientific Anglers Absolute Warmwater / Bass Mono: A top-tier nylon option when you need your topwater poppers and surface bugs to float high and track naturally without pulling the nose underwater. The Essential Knots Building custom leaders requires a small toolkit of dependable connections: Joining Leader Sections: The Blood Knot is our trusted go-to. It is slim, symmetrical, and glides smoothly through water and vegetation. Attaching Leader to Fly Line: Use a Perfection Loop for a quick loop-to-loop connection with welded fly line loops, or a Nail Knot for an ultra-clean, low-profile connection that glides seamlessly through your rod guides. Attaching Tippet: Use a Double Uni Knot when joining different materials (like mono taper to fluoro tippet), a Perfection Loop for quick field-replaceable tippets, or a Micro Swivel to completely eliminate line twist on heavy streamers and spinning poppers. 5 Knots For Building Leaders Read more 5 Signs It’s Time to Replace Your Fly Line Read more 4. Formulas & Frameworks: Finding Your Starting Point Remember: these formulas are battle-tested starting points designed to get you in the ballpark so you can tweak them to your personal style. Formula 1: The Direct Streamer Leader (7.5 Feet) Connection Type: Direct Connection (Tight-Line / Stripping). Target Application: Heavy Clousers, weighted sculpins, and deep-sinking streamer tactics. Goal: Maximum turnover power with zero hinging, paired with quick sink rates and instant hookset leverage. Section Length Material Spec / Test Butt (60%) 4.5 ft Hard Nylon Monofilament 25lb – 30lb (.020"–.022") Taper (20%) 1.5 ft Nylon Monofilament / Maxima 15lb – 20lb (.015"–.017") Tippet (20%) 1.5 ft (18 in) Seaguar Red Label Fluorocarbon 10lb – 12lb (0X – 1X) (Note: Don't forget that a straight 4-foot piece of 12lb–20lb fluorocarbon is also a fantastic, simple option here!) Formula 2: The Subtle Topwater & Popper Leader (Stepped Taper) Connection Type: Subtle Connection (Topwater / Drag-Free Presentation). Target Application: Deer hair poppers, Wiggle Minnows, and foam surface bugs. Goal: High buoyancy, zero hinging, and a steep step-down taper that drives bulky flies while laying down with controlled micro-slack to prevent drag. 8-Foot Build Section Eyeball / Rule-of-Thumb Length Material Spec / Test Butt Section (50%) 4 feet (approx. double arm's length to chest) Hard Nylon Monofilament 30lb (.022") 2nd Section (25%) 2 feet (approx. arm's length) Nylon Monofilament 25lb (.020") 3rd Section (12.5%) 1 foot (12 inches) Nylon Monofilament 20lb (.017") 4th Section (6.25%) 6 to 12 inches (pull 1 ft off spool, tie & trim) Nylon Monofilament 15lb (.015") Tippet Section 12 to 24 inches (1 to 2 feet) Nylon Monofilament 10lb – 12lb (1X – 0X) 9-Foot Build Section Eyeball / Rule-of-Thumb Length Material Spec / Test Butt Section (50%) 4.5 feet (approx. full wingspan) Hard Nylon Monofilament 30lb (.022") 2nd Section (25%) 2.5 feet (30 inches) Nylon Monofilament 25lb (.020") 3rd Section (12.5%) 1 foot (12 inches) Nylon Monofilament 20lb (.017") 4th Section (6.25%) 6 to 12 inches (pull 1 ft off spool, tie & trim) Nylon Monofilament 15lb (.015") Tippet Section 12 to 24 inches (1 to 2 feet) Nylon Monofilament 10lb – 12lb (1X – 0X) 10-Foot Build Section Eyeball / Rule-of-Thumb Length Material Spec / Test Butt Section (50%) 5 feet Hard Nylon Monofilament 30lb (.022") 2nd Section (25%) 2.5 feet (30 inches) Nylon Monofilament 25lb (.020") 3rd Section (12.5%) 1.5 feet (18 inches) Nylon Monofilament 20lb (.017") 4th Section (6.25%) 6 to 12 inches (pull 1 ft off spool, tie & trim) Nylon Monofilament 15lb (.015") Tippet Section 12 to 24 inches (1 to 2 feet) Nylon Monofilament 10lb – 12lb (1X – 0X) Pro Tip: Keep this build 100% nylon monofilament so your entire leader floats high on the surface tension, preventing your popper's nose from being pulled underwater on the retrieve. Formula 3: The Indirect Bottom-Jigging & Inshore Leader (9 Feet) Connection Type: Indirect Connection (Sub-Surface / Controlled Slack). Target Application: Crawfish patterns, weighted jigs, or saltwater crossover setups (Redfish/Snook) cast into structure. Goal: A supple transition allowing the fly line to float while the fly sinks naturally, paired with strong abrasion resistance for rocks and toothy mouths. Section Length Material Spec / Test Butt (60%) 5.5 ft Hard Nylon Monofilament 30lb (.022"–.024") Taper (20%) 1.5 ft Maxima Chameleon / Hard Mono 20lb (.017"–.018") Tippet (20%) 2.0 ft Seaguar Red Label Fluorocarbon 12lb – 16lb Fluorocarbon Mono vs. Fluorocarbon: What’s Between You and the Fish Read more Balancing Your Fly With Your Tippet Read more Let’s Keep the Conversation Going Thank you so much for taking the time to read through this! At the end of the day, custom leaders aren't about sitting around accumulating gear—they’re about bridging the gap between the flies you tie and how they actually perform when you’re out on the river. It’s all about bringing a higher level of intention to your time on the water. This guide is simply my baseline, and I’m constantly tweaking my setups as I test new fly designs and line pairings. I’d love to hear from you: What leader formulas have you been running to reliably turn over specific flies in your box? What setups or material tweaks have made the biggest difference in your presentation on the water? Please drop your favorite formulas, tweaks, and hard-earned tips in the comments below—I read every single one, and together we can build a fantastic resource for anglers looking to dial in their cast. We love being a part of your fly tying... and fly fishing.

Every trout stream has its own personality — its own bugs, its own moods, its own inside jokes that only the regulars are in on. But the best river-specific books have a funny way of transcending their zip code: the hatch-matching logic, the seasonal rhythms, the "here's what actually works" wisdom translates far beyond the water it was written about. That's exactly the case with Steve Culton's brand-new Fly Fishing Guide to the Farmington River. Yes, it's a deep dive into one of New England's great tailwaters — but whether you fish the Farmington, the Delaware, or a freestone an hour from your house, the techniques, fly patterns, and seasonal strategies inside are built to travel. Here's Steve to tell you more. Steve Culton's first book “When are you going to write a book?” For years, people kept asking. Today, the answer is, “I did.” It’s called the Fly Fishing Guide to the Farmington River, and the publish date is August 4, 2026. As part of Stackpole’s “Fly Fishing Guide to…” series, it’s a journal-sized paperback, about 250 pages, just the right size to keep in your car or fishing bag.  The Fly Fishing Guide to the Farmington River is the definitive reference for this storied tailwater. If you’ve never fished the river, and you want to go tomorrow, you can consult the book and have a good idea of where to fish, what the primary food sources will be, how you should be fishing, and which flies to use. Reference books can be detailed and technically specific, but I made a point to write this one in a conversational style. There are also numerous stories and anecdotes, because, after all, it’s fly fishing, not brain surgery.  Steve Culton The Guide is subtitled “Locations, Hatches, Flies, and Seasonal Strategies.” That covers a lot of information, so I broke the book down into four large chapters: about the river, a tour of the river (with detailed maps), important hatches and fly patterns, and how to fish the river throughout the year. Chapter One, “The Farmington River,” offers a brief history of the river. It’s loaded with fun facts so you can dazzle your friends with trivia. (How did Satan’s Kingdom get its name? Read the book and find out!) Then, it dives into the primary target species of the Farmington: trout, trout, and more trout. While not part of chapter one – it’s an appendix located at the end of the book – I’ve also included the most comprehensive reporting to date on the CT DEEP’s Survivor Strain program, which is directly responsible for the Farmington’s robust wild brown trout population.   Anglers who are just discovering the Farmington will appreciate chapter 2, “A Tour of the Farmington River.” While it flows some 80 miles from the base of Hogback Dam to its confluence with the Connecticut River, the book focuses on the 22 mile stretch from Hogback to the steel bridge in Unionville. This section is comprised of the Seasonal Trout Management Area (STMA) and the Permanent TMA (PTMA). There are six easy-to-read maps that will help you locate named pools and find your way around, accompanied by detailed descriptions of the water. My hope is that these maps will inspire you to explore, thus spreading out angler traffic. (The PTMA section sees the most angler hours/year of any river in the state.) I can tell you now that I have walked, waded, and/or fished the entire 22 miles of TMA. I don’t know of many other anglers who can make that claim. I wrote Chapter 3 for all you fly tyers, hatch nerds, and budding entomologists. It’s titled, “Important Hatches and Fly Patterns,” and I’m confident that you’ll be spending a lot of time within its pages. You’ll get hatch charts, hatch overviews, and a quarterly synopsis of what’s hatching throughout the year. But page 130 is where it gets good for fly tyers. I’ve separated the river’s food sources into five buckets: mayflies, caddisflies, stoneflies, midges, and other (everything from eggs to streamers to junk flies). These buckets are not intended to be hyper-detailed studies of individual bugs; using mayflies as an example, I’ve chosen the most significant hatches and given you critical information about hatch characteristics and fly types/patterns. But it’s really the fly tying recipes that shine. Using the mayflies example again, you’ll get nymphs, wets, and dries. All of these patterns are originals or variants created by local experts, many of which you won’t find anywhere else. The recipes alone are worth the price of the book. What’s more, these patterns will work on any river in the northeast and beyond. And, you can find most of the materials (or substitutes) right here on the J. Stockard site. The Farmington River is a viable year-round fishery, so Chapter 4, “Fly Fishing the Farmington River,” offers up seasonal strategies. The year is divided into four quarters. Of particular value will be the “Fly Fishing Methods” section. Unlike most other guide books that treat wet flies like a quaint oddity worthy only of a few paragraphs, I give them equal time along with dry flies, nymphs, and streamers. If you want to catch more fish on the Farmington, you’re going to need to have proficiency in all four methods.  The book’s greatest strength might be its diversity of opinion and breadth of expertise. You’ll hear from some of the river’s best, most experienced guides, like Antoine Bissieux, Steve Hogan, and Derrick Kirkpatrick; and from veteran anglers like Torrey Collins, Grady Allen, Joey Takeman, and Drew Butler. Their wisdom amounts to hundreds of years of experience, shared with you in a single resource. Now that I’ve written my first book, the question I’m getting is: “What’s your next book going to be about?” I’ve got some ideas. But what do you think? Tim Cammisa: All the resources Read more BOOK REVIEW | 'The Feather Bender's Advanced Fly Tying Techniques' Read more

I bought my first "good" vise for mostly the wrong reasons. It had a name I recognized from the magazine ads, a base heavy enough to anchor a small boat and a finish that looked like it belonged in a machine shop rather than on a tying desk. I loved it in the shop. I loved it a lot less six months later, halfway through stacking bucktail on a 3/0 hook, watching the jaws slowly surrender their grip under the kind of thread pressure a proper saltwater pattern actually demands, wondering why the vise everyone told me to want was making my evenings at the bench feel like a fight instead of the best part of my day. That is the trap worth naming before we get into specifics. The best fly tying vise is not automatically the most expensive one on the bench, and it is rarely the one that photographs best. It is the one that holds your usual hooks securely, gives your hands room to work and makes the techniques you actually use easier instead of harder. A trout tyer working on size 20 midges needs something genuinely different from someone spinning deer hair on bass bugs or leaning hard into a 4/0 saltwater hook, and no amount of brand reputation changes that math. So skip the question "Which vise is best?" It is close to unanswerable, and it usually leads you somewhere expensive. Ask instead: "Which vise is best for the way I tie?" If you are starting out, a simple rotating vise may be all you need for a long while. If you palmer hackle, build smooth bodies or like to inspect a fly from every angle before you call it finished, true rotary earns its keep fast. If you change hook sizes constantly and hate fiddling, fast jaw operation will matter to you more than a perfectly centered axis ever will. The short version: buy for your hook range and tying habits first, your preferred base second and extra features third. What is left over, once the sensible boxes are ticked, is allowed to be personal, and we will come back to that near the end. The guide below runs through current J. Stockard options, from an affordable first vise to specialist premium systems, organized around how you actually tie rather than how a spec sheet wants you to shop. Fly Tying Vises at a Glance Follow the product links for current options, availability and full specifications. Vise Action Base Best fit J. Stockard Supreme Vise Rotating head C-clamp First vise, occasional tying, travel backup J. Stockard EZ Rotary Vise 360-degree rotary C-clamp; pedestal bundle available Budget-minded tyers who want useful rotary function J. Stockard Ball Bearing Rotary Vise Ball-bearing rotary C-clamp; pedestal bundle available Frequent tying on a sensible budget Griffin Odyssey Spider True rotary C-clamp; pedestal and travel options A first true-rotary vise; hooks 28 to 4/0 Regal Medallion Regular Head 360-degree rotation; spring jaws Pedestal or C-clamp Fast hook changes; dries through medium streamers PEAK Rotary Vise True rotary Pedestal or C-clamp A durable, versatile long-term bench vise Renzetti Traveler 2300 True rotary Pedestal or C-clamp; left/right-handed Precision, portability and a refined rotary system Griffin Montana Mongoose Adjustable rotary Pedestal and C-clamp included One package for home, travel and varied hook sizes Stonfo Elite In-line rotary on dual bearings Heavy pedestal Precise trout flies and streamers at a fixed bench HMH TRV Rotary Vise True in-line rotary Pedestal or C-clamp Rotary-intensive techniques and repeatable bodies Stonfo Transformer In-line, tube and streamer configurations Pedestal with tool rack Tyers who need several specialist vises in one system Dyna-King Ultimate Indexer 360-degree rotary; eight indexing positions Pedestal or C-clamp Premium control, repeatable angles and production work What Matters Most in a Fly Tying Vise Hook Range and Holding Power A vise has one non-negotiable job: hold the hook without slipping or damaging it. Check the manufacturer's stated hook range, but pay even more attention to where you spend most of your time. Fine, tapered jaws improve access around small hooks. Larger hooks and hard thread pressure demand more jaw contact and a solid base or clamp. Rotating Versus True Rotary A rotating head lets you turn the fly to reach the far side or inspect proportions. On a true in-line rotary vise, the hook shank can be aligned with the axis of rotation. That lets you rotate the hook while applying ribbing, chenille or hackle in even wraps. It is a useful distinction: every true-rotary vise rotates, but not every vise that rotates is true rotary. Pedestal Versus C-clamp A pedestal base can be placed almost anywhere and moved without tools. A C-clamp usually gives you more resistance when you pull hard, but it needs a suitable table edge and can mark delicate furniture. Tyers who travel should also consider how easily the base or clamp packs, and whether the vise offers both. Jaw Operation and Adjustability Cam jaws are quick and familiar. Screw-and-lever systems give controlled adjustment. Regal's spring-loaded jaws prioritize fast hook changes. Indexing systems stop the head at repeatable angles. None is universally better; the right mechanism is the one that suits your pace and patterns. Which Fly Tying Vise Is for Me? I Am New to Fly Tying and Want a Dependable First Vise See Product See Product See Product J. Stockard Supreme Vise View the J. Stockard Supreme Vise This vise is for me if: I am learning, tie occasionally or want a low-cost travel or backup vise. The Supreme keeps the commitment modest while covering the essentials. Its C-clamp, rotating head, anti-glare finish and interchangeable fine, tapered and standard jaws give a beginner room to experiment. It rotates for access, but it should not be confused with a dedicated true-rotary system. That makes it a sensible first vise rather than the final answer for someone already committed to rotary techniques. J. Stockard EZ Rotary Vise View the J. Stockard EZ Rotary Vise This vise is for me if: I want useful 360-degree rotation and fine jaws without moving into premium pricing. The EZ Rotary is a meaningful step up for a beginner who expects to keep tying. The ultra-fine jaws provide access around small trout hooks, while the steel-and-aluminum construction and smooth rotation add capability without making the vise complicated. Choose the C-clamp for a permanent edge-mounted setup, or the bundle when you want both clamp and pedestal flexibility. J. Stockard Ball Bearing Rotary Vise View the J. Stockard Ball Bearing Rotary Vise This vise is for me if: I tie regularly, want smoother rotation and value durable jaws without moving into premium territory. This model adds ball-bearing rotation, high-speed-steel jaws and a familiar screw-and-lever adjustment. It is a good middle ground for a tyer who has outgrown a basic vise but does not yet need the refinement or price of a premium system. Like the EZ Rotary, it is available as a clamp-only option or with a pedestal bundle. I Want My First True Rotary Vise Griffin Odyssey Spider View the Griffin Odyssey Spider This vise is for me if: I want genuine rotary function at an approachable price and tie everything from small trout flies to large streamers. The Odyssey Spider is Griffin's entry-level true-rotary model, with a stated jaw capacity from size 28 to 4/0. That broad range makes it one of the more versatile choices for a developing tyer who has not settled on one kind of fly. C-clamp, pedestal-plus-clamp and travel-kit configurations let you match the package to your bench. PEAK Rotary Vise View the PEAK Rotary Vise This vise is for me if: I want a proven, solid rotary workhorse that can stay on my bench for years. The PEAK sits in the practical sweet spot between entry-level rotary vises and premium specialist systems. It is available with a C-clamp or pedestal, and optional D-arm and material clip. Choose it if stability, straightforward adjustment and broad everyday usefulness matter more than decorative finish. It is particularly easy to recommend to the generalist who ties trout flies one week and larger streamers the next. Also consider: Rambler Atlas Vise - If you like the PEAK's straightforward true-rotary approach but want a more fully equipped premium system with an unusually broad stated hook range, consider the Atlas. Its single set of tool-steel jaws covers size 32 to 7/0, and it includes both a pedestal and C-clamp. Renzetti Traveler 2300 View the Renzetti Traveler 2300 This vise is for me if: I want precise true-rotary performance in a compact system, or I need a left-handed configuration. The Traveler 2300 brings Renzetti's rotary approach into a portable, long-term vise. J. Stockard lists pedestal, C-clamp and larger 6-by-6-inch pedestal options, as well as right- and left-handed versions. It suits the tyer who values a refined rotary feel, packs a vise for trips or classes, and wants room to configure the bench around personal preference. Also consider: Renzetti Traveler 2000, Traveler 2200 or Saltwater Traveler 2200 - The Traveler 2000 and 2200 are close alternatives within the same true-rotary family, both covering hooks from size 28 to 4/0 and offering pedestal or C-clamp, right- or left-handed configurations. If most of your work is on bigger flies, the Saltwater Traveler's stated range of size 4 to 8/0 makes it the more appropriate choice. I Tie Fast and Change Hooks Constantly Regal Medallion Vise Regular Head View the Regal Medallion Vise Regular Head This vise is for me if: I value instant hook changes and powerful, uncomplicated jaws more than true in-line rotary tying. The Medallion uses Regal's spring-loaded jaw system: open the jaws, place the hook and release. The Regular Head accepts hooks from size 22 to 1/0, a useful range for dries, nymphs and many streamers. The head rotates through 360 degrees and articulates vertically, but this is about access and speed rather than true in-line rotary wrapping. It is an excellent match for production-minded tyers and anyone tired of readjusting a jaw mechanism for every hook. Also consider: Regal Medallion Stainless Steel Head or the Regal Revolution Regular Head and Revolution Stainless Steel Head - Choose the smaller-profile Medallion Stainless Steel Head if small-hook access is the priority; its stated range is size 32 to 2. If you want Regal's spring-loaded jaws with true in-line rotary function, move to the Revolution series, choosing the Regular Head for broad everyday use or the Stainless Steel Head for its smaller profile and size 32-to-2 range. Griffin Montana Mongoose View the Griffin Montana Mongoose This vise is for me if: I want a complete, adaptable package for both a fixed home bench and tying away from home. The Montana Mongoose includes both a pedestal base and aluminum C-clamp. Its heat-treated steel and stainless-steel cam jaws are paired with adjustable rotary resistance, so you can lock the head, let it rotate freely or add tension. That combination makes it useful for the all-round tyer who wants one purchase to cover different workspaces and tying styles. I Mostly Tie Precise Trout Flies and Streamers Stonfo Elite View the Stonfo Elite This vise is for me if: I want a premium, smooth in-line rotary vise on a heavy, organized pedestal bench. The Elite positions the hook shank on the rotation axis by adjusting jaw height. Its stainless-steel head runs on two precision ball bearings, and the heavy cast pedestal incorporates a tool rack. It is best suited to the dedicated home tyer who values smooth rotation, precise alignment and a tidy working area more than packability. HMH TRV Rotary Vise View the HMH TRV Rotary Vise This vise is for me if: I regularly use rotation to build even bodies, dubbing loops, ribbing and palmered hackle. The HMH TRV is purpose-built around true in-line rotary action. Hardened tool-steel jaws and a stainless-steel chassis support long-term use, while pedestal and C-clamp versions let you choose portability or maximum bench security. This is less about simply turning a fly over and more about making rotation part of the tying process. I Tie Tube Flies, Large Streamers or Many Different Styles Stonfo Transformer View the Stonfo Transformer This vise is for me if: I need dedicated in-line, tube-fly and streamer setups but would rather own one integrated system. The Transformer earns its name with quick-coupling attachments that convert it among an in-line vise, tube-fly vise and streamer vise. All three attachments are included, and the dual-bearing stainless-steel head sits over a steady pedestal with an integrated tool rack. It is expensive, but the integrated system may make sense for a specialist who would otherwise assemble several separate vise setups. Dyna-King Ultimate Indexer View the Dyna-King Ultimate Indexer This vise is for me if: I want premium control, repeatable working angles and a system built for demanding or production-style tying. The Ultimate Indexer combines full rotation with eight indexed stopping positions. Ball bearings, adjustable friction, a freely rotating body, angle adjustment and a movable bobbin mount give an experienced tyer fine control over how the hook meets the hands. It is the highest-priced vise in this guide, and it is best justified by someone who will use its indexing and adjustability rather than simply admire them. How to Make the Final Choice Choose the Supreme, EZ Rotary or Ball Bearing Rotary if price matters most and you are building a first bench. Choose the Odyssey Spider if you want an affordable entry into true rotary with a broad stated hook range. Choose the PEAK if you want a rugged, versatile rotary vise with little fuss. Choose the Renzetti Traveler if rotary refinement, portability or a left-handed option matter. Choose the Regal Medallion if quick hook changes and strong spring jaws suit your tying rhythm. Choose the Montana Mongoose if you want both base styles in one adaptable package. Choose the Stonfo Elite or HMH TRV if accurate in-line rotation is central to how you build flies. Choose the Stonfo Transformer if tube flies and streamers require specialist configurations. Choose the Dyna-King Ultimate Indexer if repeatable indexed angles and premium adjustability will earn their keep. If you are still torn between two models, look at the flies already in your box. The hooks, materials and techniques you reach for most will usually make the decision clearer than another page of specifications. A good vise should make those familiar patterns easier to tie—and leave enough room for whatever you decide to learn next. One Thing No Spec Sheet Can Settle Every buying guide, this one included, leans on specs: hook range, jaw type, base style, price. That is useful and honest information, but it is not the whole story. Ask any tyer who has owned more than one vise and they will tell you there is a factor that never shows up in a comparison table: how the vise makes you feel when you pick it up. Does the finish catch the light in a way you like? Does the brand behind it mean something to you? Does simply looking at it on the bench make you want to sit down and tie one more fly before bed? That reaction is not vanity. For a hobby built on patience and repetition, it is part of what keeps you coming back to the vise at all. None of this is a reason to ignore hook range, jaw type or base style; buy something that will not fight you at the bench. But once two or three options clear that bar, do not talk yourself out of the one you actually want. A vise that checks every box on a spec sheet but leaves you cold is easy to regret quietly for years. A vise you are genuinely glad to have in front of you, even if it is not the objectively "best" model in this guide, is the one you will actually pick up and use. Frequently Asked Questions Do beginners need a rotary fly tying vise? No. A rotating head is useful for access and inspection, but you only need true rotary if you want to keep the hook shank aligned while wrapping materials. Beginners can learn very effectively on a well-made fixed or rotating vise. What is the difference between a rotating vise and a true rotary vise? A rotating vise lets the head turn. A true rotary vise also allows the hook shank to be aligned with the axis of rotation, so materials can be applied in even wraps as the hook turns. Is a pedestal or C-clamp fly tying vise better? A pedestal is portable and works without a table edge. A C-clamp usually resists harder pulling and takes up less desktop space, but it requires a suitable edge. The better choice depends on where you tie and how much pressure you apply. Which vise is best for small trout flies? Look for fine jaws, clear access around the hook and precise tension adjustment. The J. Stockard EZ Rotary, Griffin Odyssey Spider, Renzetti Traveler 2300 and premium in-line models are all worth comparing, depending on budget and preferred action. Which vise is best for streamers and saltwater flies? Prioritize secure hook holding, appropriate jaw capacity and a stable pedestal or clamp. For specialist tube flies and streamers, the Stonfo Transformer offers dedicated configurations; generalists should also compare the PEAK, Montana Mongoose and suitable Regal head options. How much should I spend on a fly tying vise? Spend enough to hold your common hooks reliably and support the techniques you use. Entry-level vises can cover the basics, while established true-rotary models add smoother rotation, finer adjustment and more configuration choices. Specialist systems make sense when their additional features solve a real need.

All the information you need about Barry Ord Clarke, aka 'The Feather Bender' our first Fly Tying Ambassador

For over 50 years, Renzetti has been at the forefront of fly tying innovation, crafting vises that elevate the art of fly tying from mere function to a true creative pursuit. It is at the vise, where Renzetti believes precision meets artistry. "Fly tying is a unique marriage of the art and craft," reads a line from one of their striking catalogs. "In its most basic form, it is a means toan end, a deception designed to entice a fish to accept the offering. But many tyers go beyond the purely utilitarian and elevate their creation as something beautiful to behold in their own right." At Renzetti they are dedicated to providing you the tools to tie at whatever level suits your fancy. And now, we’re thrilled to announce that Renzetti’s renowned vises and tools are available at J Stockard Fly Fishing! Designed for performance, durability, and ease of use, these vises provide the perfect platform for bringing your fly patterns to life. The one thing we really love about Renzetti is that there is a vise for every tyer's needs. Here’s a comparison table of the Renzetti vises we have in stock along with a brief explanation of why each might appeal to you: Our Renzetti Range Explained Vise Model Vise Details Renzetti Presentation 2000 Hook Range: #28 to #4/0Finish: Anodized aluminumKey Features: Hinged rotary head, ratchet crank arm, bobbin cradle, cam jaws, rotary tension knobBest For: Intermediate to advanced tyers looking for precision and versatility without stepping up to premium-priced models Renzetti Apprentice Vise (C-Clamp) Hook Range: #28 to #2Finish: Glass-beaded aluminumKey Features: Rotary head, tension screw, black oxide-coated jaws, simple and functionalBest For: Beginners who want an affordable but reliable rotary vise to start tying flies Saltwater Traveler 2200 Hook Range: #4 to #8/0Finish: Anodized aluminumKey Features: Cam jaws, material clip, spinning attachment, true rotary functionBest For: Saltwater tyers handling larger hooks and needing a vise that can endure tough conditions Traveler 2200 Hook Range: #28 to #4/0Finish: Anodized aluminumKey Features: Bobbin cradle, polyurethane O-ring, cam jaws, rotary tension screwBest For: Versatile choice for all-around fly tying, offering portability and durability Traveler 2300 Hook Range: #28 to #4/0Finish: Black anodized aluminumKey Features: Same as Traveler 2200 but with a black anodized finish for added durability and aestheticsBest For: Tyers who prefer a sleek black finish with all the advantages of the Traveler 2200 See Product See Product See Product Which Renzetti Vise is Best for You? Beginners: The Apprentice Series Vise is an excellent starting point, offering simplicity and durability at an affordable price. General Fly Tyers: The Traveler 2200 or 2300 provides a great balance of features, portability, and affordability. The Traveler 2300 features a black anodized base. Precision-Oriented Tyers: The Presentation 2000 is ideal for those who want more control over their tying with advanced rotary functions. Saltwater and Big Game Tyers: The Saltwater Traveler 2200 is built for handling large hooks and tough materials, perfect for saltwater flies. See Product See Product See Product Renzetti Tools and Accessories In addition, Renzetti’s lineup in our store, includes accessories that make fly tying more efficient and enjoyable. From their hair stackers and bobbins to tool caddies to name but a few.  Check out a wide range of Renzetti products here now and discover the difference for yourself.

Fly-tying is an art, a craft, and for many of us, a meditative practice. And it all starts at the bench—a place where ideas transform into intricate flies, ready for the next fishing adventure. The "Show Us Your Bench" event was inspired by our curiosity about the workspaces that fuel your creativity. Whether it’s a high-end setup with custom storage or a simple, well-loved nook in the corner of a room, each tying station tells a story. The submissions we received revealed the diversity and individuality of our community. From organized setups with walls of feathers and rows of spools to minimalist benches with just the essentials, each shared space felt like a window into your unique tying journey. Community Creativity on Display One of the most inspiring parts of this event was seeing the inventive ways you’ve organized your tools, materials, and patterns. Bench setups evolve over time, growing alongside your fly-tying skills. Some benches included custom tool racks, DIY material storage solutions, and even clever lighting setups to help tackle those intricate flies. These creative touches not only reflect your personalities but also inspire others in the community who may be looking to refine their own workspaces. Highlights from the Event: Featured Fly Tying Bench Submissions Every entry we received had its own unique charm, and many stood out for their creativity or organization. We saw submissions from seasoned tyers with decades of experience and newcomers who just started their fly-tying journey. Here are a few of the highlights: Windows to the World: Several of you shared fly tying benches in close proximity to a window! It's no surprise, since many of us get into fly fishing because we love spending time outdoors. Of course, if we can't be outdoors on the water, sitting at our bench with a fly in our vise and a nice view is the next best thing. Space-Saving Setups: For those with limited space, the ingenuity was impressive. One participant turned a small closet into a fully functional tying station, maximizing every inch with wall-mounted storage and clever lighting. Another showed us a portable tying kit that allows them to tie on the go—a reminder that you don’t need a big space to create quality flies. Tips and Tools: What We Learned from You As part of the event, many of you shared benches that showed a ton of thought went into how your fly tying materials and tools are organized. Some benches even showed tips on organizing materials, essential tools, and favorite tying techniques. Here are some insights we gathered: Lighting is Key: Good lighting was a recurring theme. Many tyers rely on magnifying lamps to reduce eye strain and see fine details more clearly. For those working late into the night, this has become an essential part of the setup. Organization Matters: How you choose to store and organize your material is a decision that breeds a lot of diversity in fly tying benches. Many tyers use the almost-ubiqitous translucent plastic bin (should we be carrying Sterilite?). Some have more traditional, elegant wooden desks with drawers. But many of you also opt for a more at-the-ready peg solution, where all your colors of threads, dubbing, hackle, and other material can be at your fingertips, making it easier to grab the materials you need without breaking their creative flow. We also saw innovative ways to keep tools handy—many of you use magnetic strips or pegboards to keep scissors, bobbins, and pliers right at arm’s reach. Thank You for Making Our Community Stronger The "Show Us Your Bench" event underscored the strength of the J. Stockard community. It’s clear that our shared love of fly-tying goes beyond making effective flies; it’s about the joy of creating, sharing knowledge, and finding camaraderie with like-minded enthusiasts. We were inspired by the warmth and willingness to share that was evident in each post. Check out more of our community's submission on the Show Us Your Bench showcase page. Events like this one remind us how important it is to celebrate the spaces that allow our community to grow. Each bench, whether big or small, elaborate or simple, reflects the dedication you bring to fly-tying. We’re thrilled to know that J. Stockard Fly Fishing plays a role in supporting your passion and providing the materials and tools that bring your flies to life. What’s Next? With such an enthusiastic response, we’re already brainstorming future community events and challenges. We hope to create more opportunities to bring everyone together, share inspiration, and celebrate the incredible work you all do. Keep an eye on our social media pages and our newsletter for announcements about upcoming events. And, of course, we’d love to hear your ideas! If you have suggestions for community challenges or topics you’d like to explore, please feel free to reach out. Thank you again to everyone who shared their workspace, their creativity, and their passion with us. We look forward to many more events like this one, and we can’t wait to see what you create next! Happy tying, and tight lines and tight wraps! Want to upgrade your bench? Check out some of our most popular tools and vises! See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product

I'm Brian Smith, and I'm from Stanley, Virginia, which is a tiny town of about 2000 people, nestled in the Shenandoah Valley. I usually fish the Hawksbill Creek or Shenandoah river, and I target everything from trout to smallmouth.

The Kona fly fishing hook selection is designed to meet the most popular needs of most fly tyers. They are high quality hooks that should please many fly fishers. They are sturdy hooks with very sharp points.

We would like to welcome our new Pro Tyer, Jeff Rowley! Jeff Rowley Jeff was born and raised in the Texas Panhandle. He spent a lot of his time in the Rocky Mountains where his family had a cabin and his love for fly fishing and fly tying began there. At age 12 Jeff was gifted a fly tying kit and learned mostly from books and instructional manuals. In the mid 1990's, Jeff began to take fly fishing seriously. He has spent time fishing in Colorado, New Mexico, & Texas mostly. The majority of that time is targeting trout in the Rocky Mountains. Jeff mentions that he loves saltwater fishing on the Texas coast too. He said, "I'm always looking for new places to fish!" Jeff ties on a Stonfo Transformer vise and he uses Ahrex Hooks. He stands behind products from Semperfli, Renomed, and TFO. You can find him on Instagram. We are very excited to welcome Jeff to the J. Stockard Pro Tyers team and we look forward to seeing what he ties up in the future. Deer Hair Cicada Deer Hair Crayfish Deer Hair Mouse Deer Hair Popper