Thoughts on the Fly

Todd Turner’s Big Easy Scud blends translucence and subtle movement into a remarkably lifelike scud imitation. Built on a Stretch Glass underbody and finished with sparse split-thread touch dubbing, the pattern captures the natural glow and delicate leggy motion of real scuds—especially in tailwaters where fish see the real thing every day. LEARN HOW TO MAKE TOUCH DUBBING Todd keeps the profile slim and realistic, adding just a hint of orange to suggest egg sacs commonly seen on live scuds. The result is a sparse, light-passing pattern that looks alive in the water without unnecessary bulk or flash. Read the full step-by-step tying instructions and materials list on our Flybrary.

This month's featured fly: Luke Stacy's CDC Elk Hair Caddis combines classic design with soft, realistic movement. Get the full tying tutorial and materials list at J. Stockard.

Learn to tie and fish Tim Cammisa’s Double Play streamer — a proven pattern for big trout. Step-by-step guide, materials, tips, and fishing techniques.

Discover materials, tying tips, and fishing notes for this deadly trout fly that imitates Isonychia nymphs and emergers.

This high-floating Chernobyl Ant variant blends traditional terrestrial appeal with modern fly tying materials and design cues from Tim Flagler. Perfect for hopper and ant season, it offers great visibility and durability. Follow our detailed steps and materials list to tie this proven attractor fly.

Guest Blogger: J. Stockard Pro Tyer, Scott Fisher, aka the 'Trout Jouster' on Instagram, ties this month's fly. Named after the legendary angler Dan Cahill, who first tied this pattern in the early 1900s, the Light Cahill represents one of the most versatile and reliable mayfly imitations in any fly box. Its pale cream and light ginger coloration perfectly mimics several important mayfly species across North America, from the Eastern Light Cahill (Stenonema canadense) to various Ephemerella species that emerge during the prime fishing months of May through July. What makes the Light Cahill truly special isn't just its ability to match specific hatches—it's the pattern's remarkable capacity to serve as a searching fly when no obvious feeding activity is present. Its neutral, appetizing appearance suggests "food" to trout without being too specific, making it an excellent choice for prospecting likely holding water or when fish are feeding selectively on multiple mayfly species. The Light Cahill's construction—with its wood duck flank wing, cream-colored body, and light ginger hackle—creates a delicate silhouette that sits beautifully on the water while providing just enough visibility for the angler to track. It's a pattern that demands respect from both fish and fisherman, rewarding careful presentation with memorable takes from educated trout. RECIPE Hook: #14 Daiichi 1180Thread: 12/0 PrimroseTail: Light ginger spadeBody: Cream fox belly (or substitute for micro fine dubbing in Light Cahill from Hareline)Wing: Wood duckHackle: Light barred ginger Start your flattened thread onto the hook one hook eye length behind the hook eye, creating a smooth thread bed. End your thread with one additional hook eye length behind where your thread began. You should have the traditional Catskill bare shank, and your thread should be in place for where your wood duck wings will be installed. Select a wood duck feather that, when drawn together, the tips align with each other for best results. (Substitute Mallard flank or teal if wood duck is not available.) Remove soft fibers from the bottom of the feather. Cut the rachis out approximately halfway down from the top and remove the wood duck fibers, creating a V-shape with two clearly defined sides of fibers. Using your right hand, draw the fibers together in a bundle with tips facing the hook eye. Measure the wood duck to be a full hook length minus the eye. Bring that measurement forward and take two pinch wraps over the bundle, mounting the wood duck fibers onto the shank. Check to ensure you have them secured where your thread originally was resting, and if satisfied, proceed by taking 6-8 more flattened thread wraps down the shank to lock in your material. Clip excess wood duck at a 45° angle to the shank, creating a smooth taper of thread leading down the shank. End with your flattened thread behind the bundle of fibers. Grab the bundle of wood duck fibers with your left hand and lift them vertical. Proceed to move your thread in front of the bundle and create a thread dam by taking wraps very close to the underside of the fibers, walk the thread forward and then come back in once more with a few more wraps under the fibers, propping up the bundle to almost vertical. Feel free to pull the fibers back and continue to coax them into an almost vertical position.  *TROUBLESHOOTING* The underside of the shank should still be smooth with no lumps or bumps where the thread dam was created. If there is, redo and make sure your thread was completely flat during the thread dam process, and possibly take fewer wraps. This is critical for your hackle wraps to wrap around the shank smoothly, as it will react to everything underneath it. Fan the fibers out and start to find the divide between the fibers to create your near-side and far-side wings. If done well, the fibers should almost tell you where they want to go. Ensure you have equal amounts of fiber on both sides. With flattened thread, take two sets of figure eight wraps between your two sides of fibers, further dividing them into two distinct wings. Optional: To further your wings into two defined shapes, take two soft wraps encircling the base of the far-side wing, a wrap around the shank behind the wings to save your work, and finally, another two soft wraps around the base of the nearside wing. End with your thread behind the wings. Use your thumbnail and fingers to prop your wings up vertically or adjust the angle of the wings to your liking. With flattened thread, take touching wraps down the hook shank and stop right before the hook bend. Take 8-10 fibers of your tailing material, making sure the tips are aligned and measure a full hook length minus the eye, just as you did the wings. Take two soft wraps to get your tailing fibers mounted onto the shank. If satisfied, lock in your tail with thread wraps moving up the shank. Cut excess material at the taper you created earlier, making a smooth carrot shaped thread body, and end with your thread back down at the base of the tail. *TIP: If your tail is slanting downward at this point then you went too far into the hook bend. Undo, and back off a wrap or two and try again. Your tail should extend horizontal to the shank. Take a very small amount of dubbing from your source, and then remove a few wisps of fibers. *The quantity should be barely visible to you on your fingers. This is how little you use. Dub the material onto the thread in roughly a 3” length, enough to “color” the thread. Creating a tapered dubbing noodle is not necessary, as the taper you created with the thread underbody has already taken care of this. Wrap up the body and stop, leaving a hook eye amount of space behind the wings to allow for your first set of hackle wraps. *TIP This is critical to create a sparse, dainty body with a slight taper, as too often fly tyers overdo this, creating a sponge. The body is not responsible for floatation, and sparseness ensures your fly remains light, and not absorb more water than what already occurs. Select a rooster hackle feather from either a cape or saddle and measure on your hackle gauge so the tips match exactly a size 14. As the Daiichi hook is the closest to the original hook shape and length these patterns were built upon, the hackle measurement is true to size. Cut the rachis at the “sweet spot” where the webbing disappears and uniform barb length is seen. Then strip a quarter inch of barbs off both sides to expose bare stem. Strip approximately 6 additional fibers on the right side of your feather (if the face of the feather is facing you.) Install the rachis at a 45° angle on the near side of the shank, where your dubbing body ended. Keep thread flat, and take touching wraps forward securing your hackle, passing behind and in front of your wings and ending where your thread originally started. DO NOT move past this point, as to preserve the bare shank of the hook. Coax the hackle feather by lightly bending it forward until the feather almost stands vertical on its own. Take your first wrap of hackle over the shank, followed by one more. At this point the barbs should be wrapping vertical and neatly. If this does not show, and you see the barbs tilting back, reverse the wraps are do it again until they splay neatly. This is another critical step to ensure a neat, uniform hackle collar, as the first two wraps will tell you how future wraps will lay down. Like a domino effect, if the first two wraps don’t look good, they will continue to get worse. If satisfied, proceed by taking close wraps, making sure not to trap barbs from the previous wraps. General rule of thumb is 3 behind the wing, and 2-3 in front. Though this does vary depending on your hackles barb density, so use best judgement.Secure your hackle stem no further than where the thread base stops. Take securing wraps slightly back toward the hackle, as taking them forward will possibly jeopardize losing your bare shank space. Finish with 3 half hitches and secure with either traditional head cement or Solarez Bone Dry. I caution against using a whip finisher because it risks the possibility of ruining your last hackle wraps, and not getting a clean finish to the head of the fly. Happy fishing! Golden Demon Steelhead Fly - Fly of the Month Read more March Brown Parachute Fly - Fly of the Month Read more

Baitfish fly patterns that pre-spawn bass actually eat: matching forage size and color, dialing in sink rate, and the fluttering pause that gets a strike.

Craft fur shows up in more fly boxes than almost any other synthetic on the bench, and for good reason: it's inexpensive, it's durable, and it moves in the water in a way that convinces fish it belongs there. What doesn't show up nearly as often is a clear explanation of why two tyers can use the same bag of craft fur and end up with two very different flies. The difference isn't the material. It's the prep. That's the gap McFly Angler's Shawn McQuadeset out to close in a recent video breakdown, walking through how he selects, cleans, and manages craft fur before it ever gets tied to a hook — including how removing underfur, adjusting taper, and choosing the right variation of craft fur changes what the finished fly looks and swims like. Who is Shawn McQuade Shawn McQuade is the tier and teacher behind McFly Angler, an educational fly-tying channel that has grown to nearly 70,000 subscribers across YouTube and other platforms, with hundreds of tutorials spanning beginner technique through advanced pattern work. McQuade's path to the vise ran through fishing boats and fly shop counters before it ever ran through a camera — a background that shows up in how practically he talks about materials. Beyond the channel, McQuade teaches fly tying and fly fishing classes for disabled veterans through the Enduring Freedom Organization, and works each summer with kids through Reaching Outdoors camps, introducing a new generation to the vise and the water. Craft fur isn't one material — it's three The first thing McQuade's video makes clear is that "craft fur" isn't a single, interchangeable product. Standard craft fur, Extra Select Craft Fur, and Salty Craft Fur each behave differently off the hide, and matching the right one to the fly in front of you saves a lot of frustration at the vise. Extra Select Craft Fur is the step up in fiber length and density, built for larger streamer and baitfish patterns that need real bulk and movement. Salty Craft Fur is built with saltwater durability in mind, standing up to repeated casting and toothy fish without breaking down at the tie-in point. Standard craft fur remains the workhorse option for general streamer, shrimp, and crab pattern work. Cleaning and managing the underfur Every hide of craft fur carries a layer of soft underfur beneath the longer guard hairs, and what a tier does with that underfur has a direct effect on the finished fly. Left in, it adds fullness and a denser silhouette — useful on the belly of a baitfish pattern where a little extra bulk reads well in the water. Combed or picked out, it leaves only the longer fibers, which produce a sparser, more mobile profile suited to sleeker streamer and shrimp patterns. McQuade's approach is to make that choice deliberately rather than by default: decide what profile the fly needs first, then manage the underfur accordingly, rather than tying every pattern with fur straight off the hide. Adjusting the taper Craft fur fibers taper naturally from base to tip, and trimming that taper changes how the material behaves once it's wet. A bundle left at full length swims with a long, trailing action well suited to larger streamers and articulated baitfish patterns. Trimming the tips shortens the taper and tightens up the profile, which works better on smaller, more compact patterns where a fly-length tail would overwhelm the proportions. The same logic applies to how the fur is tied in — tips forward and folded back "hollow fly" style for a fuller, rounded profile, or tips back for a straighter, more streamlined silhouette. Neither approach is universally correct; the fly being tied should dictate the choice. See Product Where craft fur earns its place at the vise The versatility that makes craft fur a bench staple comes through across pattern types. On streamers and baitfish imitations, it delivers the long, undulating movement that makes a fly look alive on the pause. On shrimp and crab patterns, trimmed sections mimic legs and antennae with a level of realism that's hard to match with natural materials at the same price point. And for tiers building large synthetic brushes, craft fur — spun into a dubbing loop — produces a full, mobile brush body that holds up through repeated casting. Understanding how each variation and each prep choice changes that movement is what separates a fly that looks right on the bench from one that fishes right in the water. Watch the full breakdown In short Craft fur has been a fly-tying staple for long enough that it's easy to reach for a hide and tie it the same way every time. Shawn McQuade's breakdown is a reminder that the material rewards a little more attention than that — a few extra minutes deciding what to keep, what to trim, and which variation belongs on which fly pays off in flies that swim the way they're supposed to. Shop the full range of craft fur and synthetic tying materials below:  "Craft fur" covers three distinct materials — standard, Extra Select, and Salty Craft Fur — each suited to different patterns and conditions Underfur is a choice, not a default: leaving it in adds bulk and fullness, combing it out produces a sparser, more mobile profile Trimming the taper shortens and tightens the fiber profile for smaller, more compact patterns; full-length fibers suit larger streamers and articulated baitfish Tips-forward "hollow fly" style versus tips-back changes the fly's silhouette and should match the pattern being tied Craft fur works across streamers, baitfish imitations, shrimp and crab patterns, and dubbing-loop brushes — the prep is what makes it fit each application SHOP CRAFT FUR

Squid Fly Patterns for Striped Bass: Tying This Season's Bumper Bait | J. Stockard

Short answer: choose bucktail for slow, clear-water presentations where its natural taper and hollow-fiber buoyancy read subtle and lifelike, and choose synthetic hair like craft fur or EP Fibers when durability, color consistency, or heavy current and aggressive retrieves matter more. Many effective bass flies combine both materials in the same pattern. The right call depends on the water and how you're fishing it, not on which material is newer. Bucktail has been the foundation of bass fly tying for generations because it does something synthetics still haven't fully matched, and synthetic hair has earned its place at the bench because it solves real problems bucktail can't. The breakdown below covers exactly when each material wins, and when it's worth combining them. When does bucktail still outperform synthetic hair? Bucktail just has that beautiful natural taper so many tyers love. Each hair narrows from base to tip on its own, which means a bucktail fly built in layers naturally thins out toward the rear without any extra work from the tyer. That taper is a big part of why a bucktail Clouser or Deceiver has the subtle, lifelike profile it does. The fly looks like it's actually built out of something organic, because it is. Hareline's Northern Bucktail also has hollow fibers, which give it natural buoyancy that helps keep a fly's profile from collapsing flat the way a lot of solid synthetic fiber does when fully soaked. In clear, calm water, on slower presentations, where bass have plenty of time to look closely at a fly before committing, that natural taper and movement is doing real work. A largemouth sitting under a dock in flat, clear water staring down a slow-moving fly is exactly the situation where bucktail's subtlety pays off over a synthetic that reads a little stiffer or more uniform up close. Bucktail also remains the more economical choice for tyers building flies in volume. A single quality tail produces a large number of flies across a wide size range, and the natural color variation within one tail, lighter near the tip, darker toward the base, gives you built-in shading that you'd otherwise have to blend by hand with synthetics. When should you reach for synthetic hair instead? The case for synthetic hair starts with durability, and it's not a small advantage. Bucktail eventually mats, frays, and loses its taper after enough fish, enough casts, and enough time in the water. A bass with a mouth full of small teeth and the kind of aggressive headshake largemouth and smallmouth are known for will wear out a bucktail fly faster than most freshwater species. Hareline's Extra Select Craft Fur and EP Fibers are both built to resist that kind of wear, which matters if you're fishing a single fly hard through a whole session rather than rotating flies every few fish. Color consistency is the second real advantage. Bucktail varies tail to tail and even within a single tail, which is part of its charm but a genuine headache if you're trying to match a specific color combination exactly, especially for commercial tying or for replicating a pattern you know works. Synthetic fiber is dyed to a controlled standard, so the chartreuse and white Clouser you tied last month looks identical to the one you tie today. Synthetics also hold up better in heavy current and aggressive retrieves. Bucktail's hollow fibers, the same property that gives it buoyancy, can also make it harder to keep a tight, controlled profile in fast water or on an aggressive strip, where the fly is fighting against more resistance than it would on a slow presentation. EP Fibers and craft fur both shed water faster on the cast and hold their shape better under that kind of pressure, which is part of why so many river smallmouth and heavy current largemouth patterns have shifted toward synthetic materials over the last two decades. See Product See Product How do you decide between bucktail and synthetic hair on the water? If you're fishing slow, clear, calm water and the fish have time to inspect the fly, lean toward bucktail. The natural taper and subtlety are doing work a synthetic can't fully replace in that situation. If you're fishing fast current, heavy cover, or an aggressive retrieve where the fly needs to hold its shape and survive repeated contact with structure and teeth, lean toward synthetic hair. Durability and consistency matter more than subtlety once the water gets demanding. If you're tying in volume and want consistent results across a large batch, synthetic fiber's color uniformity will save you time and frustration. If you're tying for yourself in smaller batches and enjoy the natural variation, bucktail remains genuinely hard to beat on price and produces flies with a built-in character that's difficult to fake. Plenty of the best bass flies tied today actually combine both: a bucktail collar for natural taper and movement near the head, with a synthetic tail or underbody for added durability and color consistency where the fly takes the most abuse. There's no rule that says you have to choose one material for the whole fly. In short Bucktail's natural taper and hollow-fiber buoyancy remain unmatched for slow, subtle presentations in clear water Synthetic hair like craft fur and EP Fibers resists wear from teeth and aggressive strikes far better than bucktail Synthetic fiber's dyed color consistency matters most for volume tying and exact pattern replication Fast current and heavy cover favor synthetics for shape retention; calm, clear water favors bucktail for subtlety Combining bucktail and synthetic fiber in the same fly is a legitimate option, not a compromise Hareline Northern Bucktail, Extra Select Craft Fur, and the full range of natural and synthetic hair are available here: SHOP NOW

Transforming your fly tying from a chore into a smooth, enjoyable routine isn’t just about the flies, it’s about the environment and habits you build around them. Here are four simple changes that make a real difference, whether you’re just starting out or looking to get more consistent time at the vise. Four Fly Tying Tips For Beginners: 1. Create a Comfort Zone Make your tying space genuinely inviting. Good music, a favorite drink, easy access to your tools and materials, these are all small things that make sitting down at the vise feel like a treat rather than a task. If you’re not sure where to start with patterns, consider tying along to a video from our friend Tim Flagler of Tightline Productions. His step-by-step tutorials are some of the best available and make it easy to follow along in real time. When your space feels good to be in, you’ll find yourself returning to it far more often. 2. Check Your Vision Don’t struggle to see small details; it takes all the joy out of tying. Pick up a few pairs of cheap dollar-store reading glasses in different diopters to find the magnification that works best for you. It sounds almost too simple, but the right pair makes wrapping thread on a size 18 hook a completely different experience. While you’re at it, consider upgrading your lighting. Modern LED task lights are affordable and make an immediate difference. Good light reduces eye strain, shows material colors accurately, and lets you see exactly what your thread is doing. It’s one of the highest-value improvements you can make to a tying setup. Basic Fly Tying Tools To Elevate Every Tyer’s Bench Read more The Dubbing Materials You Need To Get Started On Tying Nymphs Read more 3. Focus on Techniques, Not Patterns Instead of chasing complex patterns before you’re ready, focus on mastering the fundamentals such as thread tension, material handling, and consistent proportions. These are the skills that transfer to every fly you’ll ever tie, and building them early means fewer frustrating sessions and more confidence at the vise. A well-tied Hare’s Ear or Pheasant Tail teaches you more than a rushed attempt at something complicated. Master the basics first, and the more advanced patterns will follow naturally. 4. The 30-Minute Rule Don’t try to fill an entire fly box in one sitting, that’s a fast track to burnout. Instead, tie two or three of a simple pattern (a Walt’s Worm is a perfect example, it is quick, productive, and satisfying to finish), then take a few minutes to prep your materials for tomorrow and call it a day. Consistency beats marathon sessions every time. Building a regular tying habit is more valuable than tying a hundred flies once and not sitting back down for a month. From Lake Erie to the Gallatin: A Conversation with Jessica Suvak Read more A Life In Fly Fishing Read more Heather Purvin  is a fly tyer and fly fishing educator. Browse the full range of beginner fly tying tools, materials, and starter kits here:  Shop Fly Tying Kits

The most consistently productive dry fly fishing of the spring season happens before the fish are rising. From the moment water temperatures begin climbing out of winter lows — typically in the upper 40s°F — trout shift from the tight, slow-metabolizing holding positions of winter into active feeding, and the first food they're eating in any quantity is nymphs. Not dries. Not emergers yet. Nymphs drifting along the substrate and through the water column, representing the full range of aquatic insect life that spring sets in motion. The tyer who has a realistic, well-proportioned nymph in the box before the first significant hatch of the season — not after — is fishing when the eating is most reliable. Which is the argument for building a spring nymph bench now, with the right materials for each stage of the hatch calendar. Semperfli's ABC range — Andy's Bugs and Creatures, developed by Andy Kitchener and laser-cut from synthetic suede — covers the freshwater spring spectrum from early-season BWO nymphs through the major stonefly migrations. Each body is water-reactive: the suede absorbs water on contact, activates subtle flex, and creates the kind of lifelike drift that segmented synthetic or dubbed bodies don't quite replicate. The porous surface accepts waterproof marker pens for colour-matching local insects, and a UV resin topcoat finishes the back into a durable, natural-looking shell. What follows is how to use the range across the spring calendar. April and May: March Browns and Hendricksons Hendricksons are among the first significant mayfly hatches across much of the eastern and midwestern United States, beginning as early as April and running through mid-May. They emerge in faster water and float for quite a while until their wings dry — which means trout have extended feeding windows on ascending nymphs before surface activity begins, and nymph fishing in the riffles and runs leading into feeding lies can be exceptional. March Browns are one of the larger spring mayflies — sizes 12–14 — hatching sporadically through early to mid-May in riffles, glides, and pocket water. Their size makes them a more substantial target than Baetis, and a realistic body makes a genuine difference when fish have time and visibility to inspect the fly. The build: ABC Mayfly Nymph 20mm or 25mm on a size 12–14 hook, standard or jig. Hendrickson nymphs are reddish-brown with distinct segmentation — the suede body takes a warm brown marker cleanly, and the laser-cut segmentation provides the visual detail that traditionally built bodies require ribbing and body material to approximate. March Brown nymphs trend darker: olive-brown to chocolate brown. A sparse Scud & Boom Dubbing thorax, Synthetic Marabou tail fibres, UV resin back. The ABC Mayfly Nymphs Kit covers multiple sizes across the mayfly nymph life stages — the most efficient entry point for tyers who want to cover the full spring mayfly calendar from small Baetis through larger Hendrickson and March Brown nymphs without buying separate packs for each size. May and June: The Stonefly Migration Stonefly nymph fishing is the most underutilised opportunity in spring trout fishing. During emergence, stonefly nymphs migrate en masse to the shoreline before crawling up through the waterline into adults — and this migration, which unfolds over days or weeks depending on the species, puts large numbers of stonefly nymphs in the drift and moving through the water column in ways that make them among the highest-calorie food available to trout before the adult stoneflies appear. The ABC Stoneflies are laser-cut in the flattened, segmented profile that stonefly nymphs actually have — not the rounded, generalist profile of most dubbed stonefly patterns. The water-reactive synthetic suede body produces the subtle flexing movement of a nymph working across bottom cobble. The build for Salmonfly and Golden Stone nymphs: ABC Stonefly body in the appropriate size on a size 4–8 3X long nymph hook or wide-gap jig hook. Colour with brown, black, or golden-tan marker depending on species. Add rubber leg fibres, a sparse dubbed thorax, and UV resin over the dorsal surface. Weight with lead wire wraps on the shank for deep-run dead drifts. For Yellow Sallies and smaller species: Small stoneflies in sizes 14–18 begin hatching in late May. The smaller ABC Stonefly bodies in yellow-gold on size 14–16 hooks cover this range — same construction, lighter wire hook, fished in faster riffle water in the afternoon when Yellow Sallies are most active. The ABC Stoneflies Kit covers multiple sizes for the range from Yellow Sallies through large Salmonfly nymphs. See Product See Product See Product Customisation: The Marker Pen Approach The ABC range is designed around the premise that a precise colour match to local insects matters and that tyers are best positioned to know what their local Baetis nymph looks like compared to a river three states away. The suede surface accepts waterproof markers for colour-matching before finishing with UV resin. The practical approach: tie bodies in natural suede, colour with markers at the vise or in the hand, finish with UV resin. A set of seven to ten colours  )pale olive, BWO tan, dark brown, golden amber, black, cream, and rust) covers the full spring freshwater nymph palette. The UV resin coat seals the colour, creates natural sheen, and significantly increases body durability. The ABC SemperSuede Fly Sheets provide the raw suede material in sheet form for tyers who want to cut their own body shapes — scud profiles, freshwater crab bodies, or specific regional insect shapes that the standard ABC body range doesn't cover. The same water activation, marker acceptance, and UV resin compatibility apply. Andy Kitchener Talks ABCs, Innovation & the Future of Fly Tying Read more Is your fly box ready for spring fly fishing? Read more

Every trout stream has its own personality — its own bugs, its own moods, its own inside jokes that only the regulars are in on. But the best river-specific books have a funny way of transcending their zip code: the hatch-matching logic, the seasonal rhythms, the "here's what actually works" wisdom translates far beyond the water it was written about. That's exactly the case with Steve Culton's brand-new Fly Fishing Guide to the Farmington River. Yes, it's a deep dive into one of New England's great tailwaters — but whether you fish the Farmington, the Delaware, or a freestone an hour from your house, the techniques, fly patterns, and seasonal strategies inside are built to travel. Here's Steve to tell you more. Steve Culton's first book “When are you going to write a book?” For years, people kept asking. Today, the answer is, “I did.” It’s called the Fly Fishing Guide to the Farmington River, and the publish date is August 4, 2026. As part of Stackpole’s “Fly Fishing Guide to…” series, it’s a journal-sized paperback, about 250 pages, just the right size to keep in your car or fishing bag.  The Fly Fishing Guide to the Farmington River is the definitive reference for this storied tailwater. If you’ve never fished the river, and you want to go tomorrow, you can consult the book and have a good idea of where to fish, what the primary food sources will be, how you should be fishing, and which flies to use. Reference books can be detailed and technically specific, but I made a point to write this one in a conversational style. There are also numerous stories and anecdotes, because, after all, it’s fly fishing, not brain surgery.  Steve Culton The Guide is subtitled “Locations, Hatches, Flies, and Seasonal Strategies.” That covers a lot of information, so I broke the book down into four large chapters: about the river, a tour of the river (with detailed maps), important hatches and fly patterns, and how to fish the river throughout the year. Chapter One, “The Farmington River,” offers a brief history of the river. It’s loaded with fun facts so you can dazzle your friends with trivia. (How did Satan’s Kingdom get its name? Read the book and find out!) Then, it dives into the primary target species of the Farmington: trout, trout, and more trout. While not part of chapter one – it’s an appendix located at the end of the book – I’ve also included the most comprehensive reporting to date on the CT DEEP’s Survivor Strain program, which is directly responsible for the Farmington’s robust wild brown trout population.   Anglers who are just discovering the Farmington will appreciate chapter 2, “A Tour of the Farmington River.” While it flows some 80 miles from the base of Hogback Dam to its confluence with the Connecticut River, the book focuses on the 22 mile stretch from Hogback to the steel bridge in Unionville. This section is comprised of the Seasonal Trout Management Area (STMA) and the Permanent TMA (PTMA). There are six easy-to-read maps that will help you locate named pools and find your way around, accompanied by detailed descriptions of the water. My hope is that these maps will inspire you to explore, thus spreading out angler traffic. (The PTMA section sees the most angler hours/year of any river in the state.) I can tell you now that I have walked, waded, and/or fished the entire 22 miles of TMA. I don’t know of many other anglers who can make that claim. I wrote Chapter 3 for all you fly tyers, hatch nerds, and budding entomologists. It’s titled, “Important Hatches and Fly Patterns,” and I’m confident that you’ll be spending a lot of time within its pages. You’ll get hatch charts, hatch overviews, and a quarterly synopsis of what’s hatching throughout the year. But page 130 is where it gets good for fly tyers. I’ve separated the river’s food sources into five buckets: mayflies, caddisflies, stoneflies, midges, and other (everything from eggs to streamers to junk flies). These buckets are not intended to be hyper-detailed studies of individual bugs; using mayflies as an example, I’ve chosen the most significant hatches and given you critical information about hatch characteristics and fly types/patterns. But it’s really the fly tying recipes that shine. Using the mayflies example again, you’ll get nymphs, wets, and dries. All of these patterns are originals or variants created by local experts, many of which you won’t find anywhere else. The recipes alone are worth the price of the book. What’s more, these patterns will work on any river in the northeast and beyond. And, you can find most of the materials (or substitutes) right here on the J. Stockard site. The Farmington River is a viable year-round fishery, so Chapter 4, “Fly Fishing the Farmington River,” offers up seasonal strategies. The year is divided into four quarters. Of particular value will be the “Fly Fishing Methods” section. Unlike most other guide books that treat wet flies like a quaint oddity worthy only of a few paragraphs, I give them equal time along with dry flies, nymphs, and streamers. If you want to catch more fish on the Farmington, you’re going to need to have proficiency in all four methods.  The book’s greatest strength might be its diversity of opinion and breadth of expertise. You’ll hear from some of the river’s best, most experienced guides, like Antoine Bissieux, Steve Hogan, and Derrick Kirkpatrick; and from veteran anglers like Torrey Collins, Grady Allen, Joey Takeman, and Drew Butler. Their wisdom amounts to hundreds of years of experience, shared with you in a single resource. Now that I’ve written my first book, the question I’m getting is: “What’s your next book going to be about?” I’ve got some ideas. But what do you think? Tim Cammisa: All the resources Read more BOOK REVIEW | 'The Feather Bender's Advanced Fly Tying Techniques' Read more

Lydia Wickizer ties under the name Flannels & Flies from Colorado Springs, Colorado, where she's become a self-described "unofficial hype woman for all women in angling." A member of Colorado Women Flyfishers and a Solarez and Ahrex Pro Team member, she teaches and ties at fly fishing shows across the country in support of a more inclusive fly fishing community. Summer brings plenty of reasons to celebrate: graduations, weddings, long, relaxed barbecues. On June 27, there's one more worth marking: National Women's Fly Fishing Day, a day dedicated to recognizing and supporting women in this remarkable sport. The observance has deeper roots than a single date. In 2020, Fly Fishers International's Women Connect program established June as Women's Fly Fishing Month, a month long celebration honoring female anglers worldwide. What began as a single day, June 27th, has grown over the years into this full month of recognition, with clubs and councils across the country hosting clinics, casting days, and tying nights in support of women in the sport. It's the perfect excuse to invite a woman in your life to experience fly fishing for the first time. If the weather doesn't cooperate, take the day indoors and teach her to tie a fly or work on casting technique. Better yet, learn together by exploring the many fly patterns women in this community have developed and shared over the years. Whether you're on the water or at the tying bench, the day is about more than technique. It's a chance to share stories, build connection, and celebrate the rich, evolving history of women in fly fishing together. READ MORE ABOUT WOMEN'S FLY FISHING MONTH How Fly Tying Changed the Way I See the Water Read more Fly Tying Tips for Beginners: How to Build a Routine That Actually Sticks Read more

New Jersey fly tyer and angler Kayla Gordon brings a practical, local-water perspective shaped by trout streams, hatches, and the satisfaction of catching fish on flies she tied herself. A Team Norvise and Renomed Pro Member who ties for South Branch Outfitters, she writes from the sweet spot where the bench meets the river. These are her words: Most people get into fly tying because they want to save money or catch more fish. For me, it became much more than that. Tying flies completely changed the way I look at rivers, fish, and even the smallest details on the water. When I first started fly fishing, I was only focused on catching fish. I cared more about where the fish were holding or what fly someone told me to use. I never stopped to ask, Why am I using this fly? or What is this actually imitating? Learning to Ask Why Once I started tying my own flies, though, I started paying attention to the why behind everything. Fly tying forced me to slow down and take a step away from just trying to catch fish. I began noticing bug activity, paying attention to what insects were present, how they behaved in the current, and what stage of life they were in. I found myself looking closer at things that I used to completely overlook. I found joy in flipping over rocks, watching the current, and trying to understand what the fish were feeding on instead of just guessing. Slowing Down on the Water Fly tying taught me to slow down and to pay attention. Suddenly, I was paying more attention to the size of the bug, the color, and what they look like as they flow through the current. Instead of just cycling through random flies hoping something works, I began to make more intentional decisions based on what I was seeing on the river. Confidence Over Perfection Tying my own flies also gave me a completely different level of confidence while fishing. There's honestly nothing better than catching a fish on a fly you tied yourself. It's one of those feelings that never really gets old. And the funny part is, the fish don't care if your fly is perfect. Some of my ugliest flies have caught some of my best fish. I think that's one of the biggest lessons fly tying teaches you early on: presentation and confidence matter so much more than perfection. Where Creativity Comes In I also think tying makes you much more creative as an angler. Once you understand the basics of certain patterns, you naturally start experimenting. Sometimes it's as simple as changing a dubbing color, adding a little bit of flash, trimming a fly differently, or mixing materials from a few different patterns together. One of my favorite things to do is mix different types and colors of dubbing in a coffee grinder to make my own unique dubbing. Some ideas end up being complete failures, but others turn into confidence flies I never leave home without despite how ridiculous they look. It's Okay to Tie Ugly Flies For beginners, fly tying can feel extremely intimidating at first. Social media makes it seem like every fly must look flawless to catch fish. In reality, everyone starts somewhere. My first flies were messy, overdressed, and crowded at the hook eye, but every bad fly taught me something new about tying. That learning process is honestly part of what makes tying so enjoyable to me. Beginner Fly Tying: Matching Fly Hook and Bead Size Read more Essential Guide to Simple Fly Tying Patterns for Beginners Read more The Night Before the River One of the things I appreciate most about fly tying is how much more connected it makes me feel to the entire experience. Fishing doesn't just start when I step into the river anymore. It starts the night before at my vise. I think about what the river conditions are, what bugs are currently hatching, and tying patterns that I genuinely believe in. That preparation builds excitement and makes every fish feel so much more rewarding. At the end of the day, fly tying isn't just about making flies. It changes the way you see the water, understand insects, approach fish, and appreciate the process behind every catch. Once you start tying your own flies, you stop simply fishing the river and begin understanding it. For me, that's what makes fly tying so rewarding, it turns every trip to the river into an opportunity to learn something new and to teach others.

Some fly tyers come to the vise through curiosity. Others come to it through necessity, and the craft becomes something closer to a lifeline than a hobby. Jeff Deshefy’s path runs through the second door, and it shapes everything about how he ties: purpose-driven, durable, built for water that doesn’t forgive a fly that can’t hold up to it. This month’s featured pattern, the Jumbo John, sits squarely at that intersection. It’s a fly built for heavy, demanding conditions, adapted by a tyer who understands what it means to rebuild something from the ground up. A Foundation Built Early, Rebuilt Later Jeff has been fly fishing since his early teens, introduced to the sport by his grandfather — a relationship that instilled in him a deep respect for fly fishing etiquette, conservation, and stewardship on and off the water. For years, he fished exclusively with commercially tied flies, never imagining tying would become the central part of his fishing life that it is today. That changed following a life-changing injury. Fly tying became a form of rehabilitation during his recovery — a way to rebuild both physically and mentally during a period when the usual outlets weren’t available. What started as therapy evolved into a serious pursuit, and over the following years, tying grew into a daily practice: planning new patterns, commercial tying, guiding, and exploring technical design concepts at the vise. Today, Jeff’s work reflects a balance between traditional influence and modern innovation, with a particular focus on durable, purpose-driven flies designed for the demanding conditions of Northeast steelhead and trout water. That focus is exactly what makes the Jumbo John worth featuring. From Copper John to Jumbo John The Jumbo John was originally developed by renowned Colorado fly tyer John Barr, and represents a natural evolution of one of the most influential modern nymphing patterns ever created — the Copper John. Barr’s designs, which came to define weighted nymph construction during the late 20th century, focused on hydrodynamic efficiency, rapid sink rates, and durability under demanding river conditions. Where the Copper John became widely recognized for its slim wire body and mayfly profile, the Jumbo John expanded on those same principles by scaling up size, bulk, and visual presence. Designed more as a generalized stonefly or attractor-style nymph, the pattern excels in heavy water, where depth, flash, and profile matter as much as precise imitation. The tightly wrapped wire abdomen, flashback wingcase, and weighted beadhead get the fly to the strike zone quickly — a signature of Barr’s broader design philosophy, and exactly the kind of construction that holds up to the punishment of big, aggressive fish in fast water. In the years since, anglers have continued adapting the Jumbo John through color variations and material substitutions, turning it into a versatile searching pattern capable of taking both resident trout and migratory fish. An East Coast Adaptation: Steelhead on the Salmon River Jeff’s introduction to Barr’s heavy wire nymphing concepts began after watching a documentary centered on British Columbia steelhead anglers fishing Copper Johns through powerful current seams. That exposure pushed him to experiment with the pattern during the early Lake Ontario steelhead runs in October and November, where aggressive fish responded well to bold attractor nymphs drifted deep through fast holding water. Further research led him to the Jumbo John itself — a larger, more robust interpretation that turned out to be perfectly suited to the conditions found on New York’s Salmon River. Through time on the water, Jeff began modifying color combinations to better match the tones and triggers that consistently produce strikes on this species. In colder flows and higher water, the added mass and visual presence of the Jumbo John let it function as both a searching nymph and a suggestive stonefly imitation — particularly effective during the early-season push of fresh steelhead entering from Lake Ontario, but productive throughout the winter as well. Rather than matching a specific hatch, the pattern thrives on suggestion — combining flash, weight, and silhouette to provoke reaction strikes from fish holding tight to structure in cold, heavy water. Tie It Yourself The full recipe for Jeff’s steelhead-adapted Jumbo John (hook, wire, bead, and wingcase specifications, along with his color combinations for Salmon River and Lake Ontario tributary conditions) is available in our Flybrary, here. Tie The Jumbo John

Shopping for a fly tyer can feel like buying a paintbrush for an artist — he probably has opinions, and he probably already owns more thread than any one person needs. But that’s exactly why a good gift lands so well: the right tool, the right material, or just a thoughtful little extra says I see what you love better than almost anything else. We’ve pulled together a range of gifts for Father’s Day (Sunday, June 21), sorted not by category but by the kind of tyer your dad is — whether he’s just getting started, fishes more than he ties, or has a fully stocked bench and swears he doesn’t need a thing. A few of these are on sale right now, too, so there’s room to be generous without overspending. The little extras (tuck one in a card) Sometimes the best gift is the small thing he keeps meaning to grab and never does. Wapsi Ultra Thread — $2.24 (15% off) The site’s top-selling thread for good reason: strong, smooth, and available in 70, 140, and 210 denier across dozens of colors. Pick up two or three shades he’s been low on. It’s the kind of refill that always gets used. Tiemco TMC 100 Dry Fly Hook — $6.26 per pack of 25 (30% off) Tiemco’s most-trusted dry fly hook, in sizes 10 through 26. At 30% off, even a dad with a drawer full of TMC 100s will happily stock up — and a few packs paired with the Ultra Thread above makes a tidy little bundle that feels like more than the sum of its parts. For the dad who fishes more than he ties Not every tying dad spends most of his time at the bench. For the one who’d rather be on the water, these earn their place in the vest. Loon Outdoors Aquel Gel Floatant — $5.94 (15% off) Loon’s best-selling silicone gel floatant won’t melt in summer heat or stiffen up when it’s cold. It’s a streamside essential small enough to slip inside a Father’s Day card as a surprise. J. Stockard Double-Sided FliCon Silicone Fly Box — $13.45 A slim, clear-lidded box with self-healing silicone foam on both sides, so hooks hold firm without crushing delicate hackle. Better organization for the streamside dad, in Large, Midge, and X-Large to match how he fishes. Bench upgrades he’ll feel every session These are the small-to-mid upgrades a working tyer notices immediately — the difference between making do and tying comfortably. Umpqua Dreamstream+ Bobbin — $17.56 (20% off) A workhorse bobbin with adjustable tension arms, a smooth steel tube, and ball-weighted arms for steady thread control. If he’s been fighting tension or snapping thread, this fixes it — and it’s a meaningful step up at 20% off. Dr. Slick All-Purpose Scissors, 4″ — $19.95 Gold loop handles, serrated blades, and a choice of straight or curved. These are the scissors tyers actually reach for on every fly. A genuine under-$20 upgrade for anyone still borrowing from the kitchen drawer, and a smart backup pair for a seasoned bench. Whiting 100-Pack Saddle Hackle — $25.45 Pre-sized Whiting hackle in a pack measured for exactly 100 dry flies — no sorting, no waste. For the dad who already has a full cape but would love a ready-to-tie pack for an evening of Sulphurs or Adams. For the dad who already has everything The trick with this one is finding the thing he’d love but won’t buy for himself. Stonfo Elite Disc Drag Bobbin — $29.75 Precision Italian engineering with a quick-adjust disc-drag tension system and a weighted stainless body. It comes in Original, Saltwater/Streamer, and Compact versions — the kind of refined upgrade a longtime tyer notices every single session. See Product See Product Getting him started — or doing it right For the dad who’s curious about tying, or the one ready to graduate from his first kit. J. Stockard Economy Vise & Tool Kit — $34.95 Everything a new tyer needs in one box: vise, scissors, bobbin, bodkin, hackle pliers, and more, with or without a carrying case. This is the “here’s how you get into it, Dad” gift that removes every excuse not to start. Dr. Slick Fly Tying Tool Gift Set — $119.95 A full bench of professional-grade tools — all-purpose scissors, ceramic bobbin, threader, bodkin, hair stacker, whip finisher, and hackle pliers — in a hard-shell display case that doubles as a fly box. Rated 4.91 out of 5, with buyers reporting their tools are still going strong years later. It’s the rare tying gift that already feels gift-wrapped, perfect for the tyer ready to move up from an entry kit to tools he’ll keep for good. The splurge When you want the gift to be the gift. PEAK Rotary Vise — $239.95 PEAK’s flagship rotary vise: a heavy pedestal base, precision cam-operated jaws, and true 360° rotation, rated 4.86 out of 5 across 49 reviews. For the serious tyer who’s been limping along on an entry-level vise, this is a bench centerpiece he’ll be using decades from now. A Guide to Introducing Children to Fishing Read more Basic Fly Tying Tools To Elevate Every Tyer’s Bench Read more When in doubt J. Stockard eGift Card — $10 to $500 If your dad has firm opinions about exactly which hackle color or hook size he needs next, let him choose. The eGift card is delivered by email — there’s a “Send as a gift?” option at checkout — so there’s nothing to wrap and nothing to ship. Available in $10, $25, $50, $100, $250, and $500. Order in time for Father’s Day Father’s Day falls on Sunday, June 21 this year, so there’s still comfortable room to shop. A few notes to make sure it arrives: Standard USPS free on orders of $100 or more — so a gift set, a vise, or a card stacked with a few extras can ship at no extra cost.  To be safe with standard shipping, order by the end of this week.  Whatever he ties, there’s something here to make this Father’s Day feel like you were paying attention all along.

Women's Fly Tying Month. Jillian Beattie traces her path from a childhood to tying her own musky flies and the tribe of women anglers she found along the way.

All the information you need about Barry Ord Clarke, aka 'The Feather Bender' our first Fly Tying Ambassador

For over 50 years, Renzetti has been at the forefront of fly tying innovation, crafting vises that elevate the art of fly tying from mere function to a true creative pursuit. It is at the vise, where Renzetti believes precision meets artistry. "Fly tying is a unique marriage of the art and craft," reads a line from one of their striking catalogs. "In its most basic form, it is a means toan end, a deception designed to entice a fish to accept the offering. But many tyers go beyond the purely utilitarian and elevate their creation as something beautiful to behold in their own right." At Renzetti they are dedicated to providing you the tools to tie at whatever level suits your fancy. And now, we’re thrilled to announce that Renzetti’s renowned vises and tools are available at J Stockard Fly Fishing! Designed for performance, durability, and ease of use, these vises provide the perfect platform for bringing your fly patterns to life. The one thing we really love about Renzetti is that there is a vise for every tyer's needs. Here’s a comparison table of the Renzetti vises we have in stock along with a brief explanation of why each might appeal to you: Our Renzetti Range Explained Vise Model Vise Details Renzetti Presentation 2000 Hook Range: #28 to #4/0Finish: Anodized aluminumKey Features: Hinged rotary head, ratchet crank arm, bobbin cradle, cam jaws, rotary tension knobBest For: Intermediate to advanced tyers looking for precision and versatility without stepping up to premium-priced models Renzetti Apprentice Vise (C-Clamp) Hook Range: #28 to #2Finish: Glass-beaded aluminumKey Features: Rotary head, tension screw, black oxide-coated jaws, simple and functionalBest For: Beginners who want an affordable but reliable rotary vise to start tying flies Saltwater Traveler 2200 Hook Range: #4 to #8/0Finish: Anodized aluminumKey Features: Cam jaws, material clip, spinning attachment, true rotary functionBest For: Saltwater tyers handling larger hooks and needing a vise that can endure tough conditions Traveler 2200 Hook Range: #28 to #4/0Finish: Anodized aluminumKey Features: Bobbin cradle, polyurethane O-ring, cam jaws, rotary tension screwBest For: Versatile choice for all-around fly tying, offering portability and durability Traveler 2300 Hook Range: #28 to #4/0Finish: Black anodized aluminumKey Features: Same as Traveler 2200 but with a black anodized finish for added durability and aestheticsBest For: Tyers who prefer a sleek black finish with all the advantages of the Traveler 2200 See Product See Product See Product Which Renzetti Vise is Best for You? Beginners: The Apprentice Series Vise is an excellent starting point, offering simplicity and durability at an affordable price. General Fly Tyers: The Traveler 2200 or 2300 provides a great balance of features, portability, and affordability. The Traveler 2300 features a black anodized base. Precision-Oriented Tyers: The Presentation 2000 is ideal for those who want more control over their tying with advanced rotary functions. Saltwater and Big Game Tyers: The Saltwater Traveler 2200 is built for handling large hooks and tough materials, perfect for saltwater flies. See Product See Product See Product Renzetti Tools and Accessories In addition, Renzetti’s lineup in our store, includes accessories that make fly tying more efficient and enjoyable. From their hair stackers and bobbins to tool caddies to name but a few.  Check out a wide range of Renzetti products here now and discover the difference for yourself.

Fly-tying is an art, a craft, and for many of us, a meditative practice. And it all starts at the bench—a place where ideas transform into intricate flies, ready for the next fishing adventure. The "Show Us Your Bench" event was inspired by our curiosity about the workspaces that fuel your creativity. Whether it’s a high-end setup with custom storage or a simple, well-loved nook in the corner of a room, each tying station tells a story. The submissions we received revealed the diversity and individuality of our community. From organized setups with walls of feathers and rows of spools to minimalist benches with just the essentials, each shared space felt like a window into your unique tying journey. Community Creativity on Display One of the most inspiring parts of this event was seeing the inventive ways you’ve organized your tools, materials, and patterns. Bench setups evolve over time, growing alongside your fly-tying skills. Some benches included custom tool racks, DIY material storage solutions, and even clever lighting setups to help tackle those intricate flies. These creative touches not only reflect your personalities but also inspire others in the community who may be looking to refine their own workspaces. Highlights from the Event: Featured Fly Tying Bench Submissions Every entry we received had its own unique charm, and many stood out for their creativity or organization. We saw submissions from seasoned tyers with decades of experience and newcomers who just started their fly-tying journey. Here are a few of the highlights: Windows to the World: Several of you shared fly tying benches in close proximity to a window! It's no surprise, since many of us get into fly fishing because we love spending time outdoors. Of course, if we can't be outdoors on the water, sitting at our bench with a fly in our vise and a nice view is the next best thing. Space-Saving Setups: For those with limited space, the ingenuity was impressive. One participant turned a small closet into a fully functional tying station, maximizing every inch with wall-mounted storage and clever lighting. Another showed us a portable tying kit that allows them to tie on the go—a reminder that you don’t need a big space to create quality flies. Tips and Tools: What We Learned from You As part of the event, many of you shared benches that showed a ton of thought went into how your fly tying materials and tools are organized. Some benches even showed tips on organizing materials, essential tools, and favorite tying techniques. Here are some insights we gathered: Lighting is Key: Good lighting was a recurring theme. Many tyers rely on magnifying lamps to reduce eye strain and see fine details more clearly. For those working late into the night, this has become an essential part of the setup. Organization Matters: How you choose to store and organize your material is a decision that breeds a lot of diversity in fly tying benches. Many tyers use the almost-ubiqitous translucent plastic bin (should we be carrying Sterilite?). Some have more traditional, elegant wooden desks with drawers. But many of you also opt for a more at-the-ready peg solution, where all your colors of threads, dubbing, hackle, and other material can be at your fingertips, making it easier to grab the materials you need without breaking their creative flow. We also saw innovative ways to keep tools handy—many of you use magnetic strips or pegboards to keep scissors, bobbins, and pliers right at arm’s reach. Thank You for Making Our Community Stronger The "Show Us Your Bench" event underscored the strength of the J. Stockard community. It’s clear that our shared love of fly-tying goes beyond making effective flies; it’s about the joy of creating, sharing knowledge, and finding camaraderie with like-minded enthusiasts. We were inspired by the warmth and willingness to share that was evident in each post. Check out more of our community's submission on the Show Us Your Bench showcase page. Events like this one remind us how important it is to celebrate the spaces that allow our community to grow. Each bench, whether big or small, elaborate or simple, reflects the dedication you bring to fly-tying. We’re thrilled to know that J. Stockard Fly Fishing plays a role in supporting your passion and providing the materials and tools that bring your flies to life. What’s Next? With such an enthusiastic response, we’re already brainstorming future community events and challenges. We hope to create more opportunities to bring everyone together, share inspiration, and celebrate the incredible work you all do. Keep an eye on our social media pages and our newsletter for announcements about upcoming events. And, of course, we’d love to hear your ideas! If you have suggestions for community challenges or topics you’d like to explore, please feel free to reach out. Thank you again to everyone who shared their workspace, their creativity, and their passion with us. We look forward to many more events like this one, and we can’t wait to see what you create next! Happy tying, and tight lines and tight wraps! Want to upgrade your bench? Check out some of our most popular tools and vises! See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product

I'm Brian Smith, and I'm from Stanley, Virginia, which is a tiny town of about 2000 people, nestled in the Shenandoah Valley. I usually fish the Hawksbill Creek or Shenandoah river, and I target everything from trout to smallmouth.

The Kona fly fishing hook selection is designed to meet the most popular needs of most fly tyers. They are high quality hooks that should please many fly fishers. They are sturdy hooks with very sharp points.

We would like to welcome our new Pro Tyer, Jeff Rowley! Jeff Rowley Jeff was born and raised in the Texas Panhandle. He spent a lot of his time in the Rocky Mountains where his family had a cabin and his love for fly fishing and fly tying began there. At age 12 Jeff was gifted a fly tying kit and learned mostly from books and instructional manuals. In the mid 1990's, Jeff began to take fly fishing seriously. He has spent time fishing in Colorado, New Mexico, & Texas mostly. The majority of that time is targeting trout in the Rocky Mountains. Jeff mentions that he loves saltwater fishing on the Texas coast too. He said, "I'm always looking for new places to fish!" Jeff ties on a Stonfo Transformer vise and he uses Ahrex Hooks. He stands behind products from Semperfli, Renomed, and TFO. You can find him on Instagram. We are very excited to welcome Jeff to the J. Stockard Pro Tyers team and we look forward to seeing what he ties up in the future. Deer Hair Cicada Deer Hair Crayfish Deer Hair Mouse Deer Hair Popper