Fly Tying Tips & Techniques

There is a particular kind of fly tyer — you've met them, maybe you are them — who owns approximately four hundred beads and ties with maybe twelve of them. The rest live in their little compartmentalized trays, sorted by size and color with an optimism that bears no relationship to what actually ends up on hooks.  But,  when they sit down at the vise, they reach for the same 3.2mm gold tungsten they've been reaching for since 2016. 'Branch out next season,' goes the thought process. 'Maybe...' The system works. Until it doesn't. The reason the system eventually stops working is depth. Specifically, the fact that a fly sitting eighteen inches above where the fish are feeding is functionally identical to a fly sitting at home in your box. And the variable that controls where your fly actually lives in the water column — more than line choice, more than indicator placement, more than mending — is the bead. So. Brass versus tungsten. Let's actually sort this out. The weight gap is bigger than you think The number that matters here is density. Tungsten sits at around 19.3 grams per cubic centimetre. Brass is roughly 8.5. That's not a small difference — that's tungsten being more than twice as heavy as brass at the same physical size. For example, Wapsi's Tungsten Bomb Beads make this explicit on the packaging: twice as heavy as brass, and they're not being modest about it. Montana Fly Company's countersunk tungsten beads make the same point a different way — same bead size, noticeably heavier fly, noticeably faster sink, noticeably less guesswork about whether you're reaching the bottom. What this means practically is that a 3mm tungsten bead and a 3mm brass bead are not interchangeable. They look similar in the packet. On the hook, in moving water, they behave very differently. If you've ever tied the same pattern in both and wondered why the brass version fishes shallow and the tungsten version feels almost over-weighted, this is why. The physics are doing the work you're not accounting for. One thing worth clarifying before we go further: When we talk about brass versus tungsten, we're talking about the base metal — the material the bead is made from — not the color. Both brass and tungsten beads come in a wide range of finishes: gold, silver, copper, black nickel, hot orange, olive, pink, matte natural tones and more. A black tungsten bead and a black brass bead are both black. The difference is what's underneath the finish and how much it weighs. Color is a pattern decision. Material is a physics decision. This article is entirely about the second one. How To Find the Perfect Bead Size For Every Fly Read more Beginner Fly Tying: Matching Fly Hook and Bead Size Read more When tungsten is the right call Tungsten earns its keep in fast water and deep runs. Euro nymphing, high-gradient freestone streams, any situation where you're trying to get a compact fly down through a strong current to a feeding lane that's sitting close to the streambed — tungsten is not optional, it is structural to the whole approach. The Hareline Slotted Tungsten Beads are purpose-built for exactly this: the slot accommodates jig-style hook geometry, the weight gets your fly on the bottom without adding bulk that changes the fly's profile, and the range of sizes from 2mm right through to 4.6mm means you can dial in the sink rate rather than accepting whatever the bead dictates. Hareline's Countersunk Tungsten Beads do the same job on standard hook bends — same density, slightly different installation geometry. If you want maximum sink in the smallest possible profile — a competition-style Czech nymph on a size 14 hook that still gets to the bottom of a fast run — the Hareline Painted Slotted Tungsten Beads let you use a smaller bead than you'd need in brass and still achieve the weight. That's the core efficiency of tungsten: you're not sacrificing profile to get depth. When brass makes more sense Slower water. Shallower water. Any situation where tungsten would blow straight through the feeding zone before the fish has time to commit. That's brass's argument, and it's a good one. A size 14 Pheasant Tail or Hare's Ear in moderate spring creek current, presented on a light tippet — that fly doesn't need to get to the bottom in three seconds. It needs to drift naturally at mid-column, ideally at the same depth as the naturals the fish are actually eating. A 3mm tungsten bead on a size 14 hook in slower water doesn't give you a natural drift; it gives you a fly that nose-dives past every feeding fish in the pool and ends up wedged in the gravel. Brass lands the fly more gently. It sinks at a pace that slower currents and shallower presentations can accommodate. The Hareline Dazzle Brass Beads — 24 per pack, countersunk, available in a range of colours that actually holds up — are a sensible general-purpose bench option for exactly this kind of work. They're not trying to be tungsten. They're doing something different. The Hareline Brass Bead Assortment takes this further if you're building out a starter bench or covering multiple pattern sizes: 150 beads across sizes and colours in a compartmentalised pack, which is the right amount of variety for tiers who haven't yet decided which patterns they'll live in. For streamer tiers specifically, the Hareline Brass Cone Heads are worth having on the bench. Brass cones on a Muddler or a baitfish pattern give the fly a swimmy, undulating sink rather than the more aggressive head-first dive you get with a tungsten cone — and in stillwater or slower current, that swimming action is often what triggers fish rather than a fly that simply falls fast and straight. The in-between options A few things worth knowing before you commit to an all-tungsten or all-brass bench. Double-beading — one bead behind another on the same hook — is a useful technique for anyone who wants the bulk profile of a larger bead combined with a more graduated weight. Two brass beads on a stonefly nymph give you a silhouette and moderate weight without the abrupt sink rate of a single oversized tungsten. Ugly? Sometimes. Effective in the right current? Often. The Fulling Mill Tungsten Dumbbells offer a different weighting geometry altogether — the dumbbell shape places weight laterally across the hook rather than at the head, which changes how the fly moves in current and can be particularly effective for patterns where you want the fly to ride hook-point-up or have a specific tumbling action in faster water. Glass beads exist at the other end of the spectrum — negligible weight, more of an aesthetic contribution than a functional one. Useful for dry-dropper setups or slow-water emerger patterns where any meaningful weight would drag the presentation down past the feeding zone. Not a substitute for brass or tungsten in standard nymph applications, but worth having if you fish a variety of water types. Size and material are the same decision Here's something the brass-versus-tungsten framing tends to obscure: you're not actually choosing between two interchangeable options. At certain sizes, the choice is already made for you. Small beads — 1.5mm to 2mm, which is your size 18–22 midge and micro-nymph territory — are a brass and glass conversation. Tungsten at that diameter exists but the weight differential at sub-2mm is less decisive, and the delicate hook wire on a size 20 midge hook is not asking for a dense bead driving its head into the streambed. Brass and glass keep the fly in the right zone for the right reasons. Standard nymphs on size 12–16 hooks — your Pheasant Tails, your Hare's Ears, your Perdigons — land in the 2.4mm to 3.5mm range. This is genuinely the overlap zone where material matters most, because a 3.2mm brass bead and a 3.2mm tungsten bead look identical in the packet and fish completely differently in the water. In moderate current and moderate depth, either can work. In fast, deep water, the tungsten is doing a job the brass simply cannot do at the same size. At 4.6mm and above — size 4–8 hooks, large streamers, heavy nymphs — brass largely exits the conversation. The weight at that size favours tungsten, which is why J. Stockard's own bead size chart shows 4.6mm+ as a tungsten-only recommendation. If you're running a big articulated nymph on a size 6 hook through heavy water, a brass bead at that diameter adds profile without adding enough sink to justify it. Tungsten does both jobs in a smaller package. Our Bead & Hook Size Chart is worth bookmarking before you build out a bench. The short version: midges and small nymphs (size 18–22) need 1.5mm–2.4mm beads; standard nymphs (size 12–16) land between 2.4mm and 3.5mm; streamers and large nymphs (size 6–10) run 3.5mm to 5mm. Get the sizing right before you decide on material, because a correctly-sized brass bead beats a wrong-sized tungsten one every time. See Product See Product See Product See Product A practical decision tree Fast, deep water, euro-nymph rig, bottom-dwelling presentation: tungsten. Always tungsten. The Firehole Stones or the Hareline Slotted Tungstens depending on hook style.Moderate current, mid-column or mid-to-bottom presentation, standard nymph patterns on sizes 12–16: either material works. Let the depth and current speed guide the choice. If you're adding a split shot to a brass-beaded fly to get it down, swap the bead for tungsten and take the split shot off. The fly will fish cleaner.Slow water, spring creeks, still water, tailwaters with educated fish: brass. Slower sink rate, more natural mid-column drift, less likelihood of blowing through the zone.Streamers in still water or moderate current: brass cone for a natural swimming sink, tungsten cone when you need it to dive on the pause and stay down.Jig hooks: slotted beads, full stop — the slot accommodates the offset eye geometry that standard countersunk beads fight against. In short Tungsten is approximately twice as dense as brass at the same bead size — this is not a minor difference in the water Tungsten is the correct choice for fast, deep water, Euro-nymph rigs, and any presentation that needs to reach the bottom quickly Brass is the correct choice for slower current, shallower presentations, and mid-column drifts where a fast sink would blow through the zone Hareline Slotted and Countersunk Tungstens, Firehole Stones, Wapsi Tungsten Bombs, and Montana Fly Company tungstens cover the full range of application at J. Stockard Hareline Dazzle Brass Beads and Hareline Brass Bead Assortment handle the brass side of the bench Bead size and material are the same decision: 1.5mm–2.4mm for midges and small nymphs (size 18–22); 2.4mm–3.5mm for standard nymphs (size 12–16); 3.5mm–5mm for streamers and large nymphs (size 6–10) At 4.6mm and above, brass exits the picture — tungsten only J. Stockard's Bead & Hook Size Chart is a useful bench reference before you tie Jig hooks need slotted beads; standard bends take countersunk; know the difference before you tie in When in doubt, tie one of each and fish them back-to-back in the same run The bead question is not actually complicated. It just requires you to think about water before you think about fly pattern — which is, admittedly, the opposite of what most of us do. Most of us think about the fly pattern first, then think about whether it'll reach the fish, then wonder why the drift looks wrong. The correct order is: understand the depth and current, choose the bead weight that gets your fly into that zone at that pace, and build the pattern around that decision. Tungsten gets you down fast. Brass gets you down slow. Neither is better. Both are necessary. Buy both. Tie more. Fish the right one for the water in front of you. Browse our full range of tungsten and brass beads at here:  BEADS, EYES & CONES

I am, by most measures, a saltwater guy. My fly boxes are full of bright, flashy things, articulated shanks and enough UV resin to qualify as a small art installation.  I tie big, dumb, ugly flies for fish that aren't too fussy. Or at least, that's what I told myself for a long time to justify never learning to tie a proper nymph. The truth is I have always been quietly intimidated by the nymph world. All those tiny hooks and slim bodies and exacting proportions that get picked apart by educated trout in gin-clear water. It requires a kind of patience and precision that doesn't come naturally to a popper and bucktail guy.  But here's the thing about peacock herl. Even if you've never tied a nymph in your life — even if your idea of a thorax material is "whatever's closest to the vice" — you almost certainly know peacock herl's single most irritating quality: the way it waits until the most critical wrap of the entire fly before snapping clean off and unravelling six turns of work in about a quarter of a second. It's been doing this to tyers since Frank Sawyer first started poking around the Wiltshire Avon, and in all those decades, nobody seemed particularly motivated to fix it. We just twisted our herls around the tying thread, held our breath and hoped for the best. Enter Synthetic Herl For Fly Tying Celtic Blob Company had a different idea. And the catalyst, fittingly, was a global bird flu crisis. See Product FROM WALES, WITH INTENT Celtic Blob is a Welsh outfit and if you don't know their work, the short version is this: they specialise in fly tying materials hand-dyed for competition trout anglers. Not hobbyists. Not casual weekend tyers. Competition anglers — the people fishing FIPS Mouche events on pressured European reservoirs where the fish have a PhD in telling fake from real. If a material makes it into that game and stays there, it has earned its stripes. Their Micro Synthetic Herl (MSH) came out of a very specific problem. Avian flu outbreaks have repeatedly hammered the supply of natural bird feathers over the past decade — peacock included. When you're a materials company built on a reputation for consistent, reliable product and your supply chain is suddenly at the mercy of a global disease, you have two choices: you wait it out and hope, or you engineer a solution. Celtic Blob did the latter. The result debuted at the British Fly Fair International. It sold out. That's all you need to know about the reception. WHAT IT ACTUALLY IS CBC Micro Herl is, in the company's own words, an ultra-fine synthetic developed to replicate the delicate finesse of natural herl — without the fragility or supply limitations. It comes in three variant types: Standard, Peacock-style, and Metallic. Within those categories you get a range of natural, non-fluorescent colours as well as fluorescent hot spot options for those of you who fish Euro-nymph rigs or just enjoy watching fish panic at a bright thorax (valid, and scientifically sound). The diameter is genuinely micro — we're talking herl-fine, not "we called it micro because the marketing team liked the sound of it." It wraps like the real thing because it behaves like the real thing, with one very significant exception. THE TENSION THING This is the part that matters most to me as someone who came to nymph tying late and with enormous scepticism. With natural peacock herl, you treat tension like an enemy. You nurse the wraps. You try not to pull too hard. The moment you forget this — the moment you get three turns from the bead and pull like you mean it — the herl says goodbye and your thorax is now nothing but regret and thread. With CBC Micro Herl, tension is a tool. The synthetic fibres are designed to respond to it: apply tension and the body slims down and tightens; ease off and it relaxes back into that slightly fuller, more naturalistic profile. This is genuinely useful for nymph construction. A PT built with MSH can be dialled in — slim through the abdomen, fractionally fuller at the thorax — in a way that natural herl's fragility simply doesn't allow you to attempt with any consistency. The other big practical win is strand length. Natural peacock herl is short. You're constantly re-tying in fresh material, which either adds bulk at the tie-in points or breaks up the body in ways you didn't intend. MSH has no such restriction. One strand from here to the horizon if you need it — which for production tying specifically is a game-changer. You want to knock out two dozen size 14 jig nymphs in an evening, you don't want to be fumbling around with short strands every third fly. The Ultimate Guide to Tying Bluefish Flies Read more Fly Fishing For Spring Stripers - timing the migration and what flies to have ready Read more ON THE BENCH: THE PHEASANT TAIL TEST As you can see with this Fly of the Month; Celtic Blob's Pheasant Tail — developed and tied by Jeremy Knapp — and it uses MSH for both the abdomen (Copper & Chocolate) and stands as the key modern upgrade on a pattern that every angler on earth has in their box. The challenge with any PT variant is simple: you need to keep that slim, segmented profile that makes the original so eerily effective, while stopping it from looking like compost after the third fish. The MSH abdomen wraps tight and true under tension, building that classic segmented nymph silhouette without any of the mushiness you sometimes get with synthetic alternatives that are just a little too chunky for small hooks. On a size 14 jig hook — which is already a tight canvas — that ultra-fine diameter is not a luxury, it is a requirement. The Copper & Chocolate colourway reads almost exactly like the natural variations in a real PT abdomen. It's not trying to be flashier than the original. It's trying to be better than the original. And structurally, it succeeds. Paired with CBC's SMI dubbing at the thorax (Soft Metallic Ice, Black & Green), the result is a fly that from two feet down, in moving water, is indistinguishable from the classic pattern — except it's still going strong on fish number five. BEYOND THE PHEASANT TAIL If you tie any of the standard herl-bodied canon — Zug Bugs, Prince Nymphs, Carey Specials, any Czech or Spanish nymph style with a herl-wrapped body — MSH is a direct, functional substitute. The metallic variants are particularly interesting for anyone who runs flashback patterns: you get a subtle integrated shimmer that reads like the iridescence on a real insect exoskeleton, without needing a separate flashback material that adds bulk and a second tie-in point. Clean. Simple. Effective. The hot spot fluorescent versions are worth flagging for anyone fishing Euro-nymph rigs in heavily pressured tailwater. A fluorescent MSH thorax is a trigger that sits right in the fly's own body rather than bolted onto the outside of it. Educated fish, in my limited but growing trout experience, seem to respond to things that look like they belong rather than things that look like they've been added. IN SHORT Wraps, tapers and fishes like natural herl — without the snapping Tension is your friend, not your enemy Unrestricted strand length makes production tying significantly less painful Standard, Peacock and Metallic variants cover most applications Hot spot fluorescent versions available for competition and Euro-nymph rigs Supply chain is independent of bird flu and feather availability Welsh competition-circuit pedigree means it's been stress-tested where it matters. Tie the CBC Pheasant Tail Nymph I came to this material as a saltwater guy who ties big ugly things for big ugly fish and has historically had very little patience for anything requiring a size 14 hook and twelve adjacent thread wraps. And CBC Micro Herl, somewhat against my better cynical instincts, has made me actually enjoy tying nymphs. It removes the single most frustrating variable in herl-bodied fly construction and replaces it with a material that gives you control, consistency and — dare I say — a certain quiet pleasure in watching a slim, perfect body build wrap by wrap without drama.

Dubbing Materials for Fly Tying: A Beginner's Checklist for Nymphs Starting fly tying as a beginner? Dubbing materials are essential for creating the textured, buggy bodies that make nymph patterns irresistible to trout and other fish. Nymphs imitate underwater insects, which form the bulk of a fish's diet, so mastering dubbing materials early builds versatile skills for patterns like Hare's Ear or Pheasant Tail nymphs. This beginner dubbing materials checklist focuses on affordable, easy-to-use options for nymphs.  Why Focus on Dubbing Materials for Nymphs as a Beginner? Dubbing—chopped fur or fibers twisted onto thread—creates lifelike, absorbent bodies that sink naturally, key for nymph fishing success. Beginners benefit from dubbing's forgiveness: Even imperfect ties catch fish! In fact, often the scraggier and 'buggier' the fly, the fishier it is.  On that note, natural dubbings like hare's ear provide bugginess for murky water, while synthetics offer consistency for clear streams.  Best Natural Dubbing Materials for Beginner Nymphs Natural dubbing materials absorb water for better sinking and add organic texture—ideal for imitating caddis or mayfly larvae. Start with medium-coarse types for easy handling. Hare's Ear Dubbing: Classic for Gold-Ribbed Hare's Ear nymphs; mix of underfur and guard hairs for spiky profiles mimicking mayflies/caddis. Pros: Versatile, buggy; Cons: Can mat if overused. Available in dispensers for multi-color experiments.  Rabbit Fur Dubbing: Soft and absorbent for Prince Nymphs or stonefly imitations; great in dark/olive shades. Pros: Affordable, sinks well; Cons: Less durable in currents.  Muskrat Dubbing: Superfine natural for thin, heavy nymphs like Pheasant Tails; excellent water absorption for natural drift. Pros: Slim profiles for spooky fish.  Opossum Dubbing: Medium-coarse for river nymphs; alternative to seal fur for chironomids. Pros: Tyer-friendly, natural in water; Cons: Stiffer than rabbit.  See Product See Product Best Synthetic Dubbing Materials for Beginner Nymphs Synthetic dubbing materials provide durability and flash, perfect for low-light or murky conditions. It is also worth noting that, as a beginner, you will appreciate their consistency. Superfine Dubbing: Waterproof fine synthetic for slim emerger nymphs like RS2; olive/black for BWOs. Pros: Easy to dub, floats well in hybrids; Cons: Less texture alone.  SLF Prism Dubbing: Sparkly synthetic for translucent thoraxes; blend with hare's ear for custom nymphs. Pros: Vibrant, long-lasting;  Ice Dub: UV-reflective for flashy nymphs like Zebra Midges; adds attraction in winter. Pros: Attracts in low light; Use sparingly. What Are The Essential Dubbing Tools for Fly Tying Read more Winter Fly Tying Dubbing Blends for Midges & BWOs Read more Complementary Nymph Materials for Your Dubbing Checklist To complete nymphs, add these basics: Threads: UNI 8/0 in olive/black—waxed for dubbing grip. Hooks: Nymph hooks sizes 12-20 —Ahrex for curved shanks. Beads: Tungsten 1/16-1/8 inch —gold/black for weight. Wires/Ribs: UTC Wire —copper for segmentation. Feathers: Hen Hackle—grizzly for legs. Beginner Tips for Using Dubbing Materials in Nymph Tying Blending: Mix natural (buggy) dubbing materials with synthetic (flash) for balanced nymphs—use a coffee grinder for customs.. Application: Wax thread first to prevent slippage; tease with a brush for texture. Patterns to Start: Hare's Ear (natural dubbing) or Pheasant Tail (fine synthetic)—5-10 ties build skills. Sustainability: Choose ethical naturals. This dubbing materials checklist for fly tying beginners equips you for success—shop here for bundles and fast shipping.  SHOP DUBBING FAQ: Common Questions About Dubbing Materials for Fly Tying Beginners We've compiled this FAQ based on popular queries from fly tying forums and beginner threads on community sites. These answers address key concerns to help you choose and use dubbing materials for nymphs effectively, boosting your confidence and on-water success. What is dubbing in fly tying, and why is it important for nymphs? Dubbing refers to finely chopped fur, fibers, or synthetics twisted onto thread to form the body of a fly. For nymphs, dubbing creates textured, absorbent profiles that imitate underwater insects like mayfly larvae or caddis pupae, which make up most of a trout's diet. It's crucial because it adds bugginess and natural movement—without it, nymphs look flat and unnatural. Beginners should start with versatile dubbing like hare's ear, as it forgives minor errors and sinks realistically in currents. What's the difference between natural and synthetic dubbing materials for fly tying? Natural dubbing, such as hare's ear or rabbit fur, comes from animal pelts and offers organic texture with guard hairs for a spiky, lifelike appearance—ideal for murky water nymphs where realism trumps durability. Synthetic dubbing, like SLF Prism or Superfine, is man-made for consistency, vibrant colors, and water resistance, shining in clear streams or for adding flash to attract fish in low light. Naturals absorb water better for sinking, while synthetics last longer and are often more eco-friendly (e.g., recycled fibers). Blend them for the best results—try mixed dispensers to experiment affordably. How do I choose the best dubbing for nymphs as a fly tying beginner?Select dubbing based on pattern type and water conditions: Coarse naturals like rabbit fur for buggy stonefly nymphs in fast rivers, or fine synthetics like Superfine for slim mayfly imitations in clear streams. For versatility, start with olive, black, and tan colors to match common hatches (e.g., BWOs or midges). Consider texture—spiky for bugginess or smooth for slim profiles—and budget. Check community reviews for real-user tips; hare's ear dubbing is a top-rated beginner choice for its ease and effectiveness in Hare's Ear nymphs. Can I blend different dubbing materials for custom nymph bodies?Absolutely—blending dubbing is a beginner-friendly way to create unique textures and colors for nymphs. Mix 50/50 natural (e.g., hare's ear for bugginess) with synthetic (e.g., Ice Dub for flash) using a dubbing rake or coffee grinder. This hybrid approach enhances realism for patterns like the Prince Nymph, adding sparkle without overcomplicating. Start simple to avoid clumps; experimenting builds skills—share your blends in comments for community feedback! What tools do I need to work with dubbing materials for nymph tying?Essential dubbing tools for beginners include a twister for loops, a brush for teasing fibers, and wax for thread grip. These prevent slippage and create even bodies on nymphs. For precision, add a dubbing needle for picking out strands. Start with 3-4 tools to avoid overload—beginner kits tailored to nymph patterns provide great value. How do I apply dubbing materials to thread for fly tying nymphs?Wax your thread first for tackiness, then pinch a small amount of dubbing and twist it onto the thread in a dubbing loop using a twister. Roll between fingers for a rope-like body—tease with a brush for bugginess. For nymphs, keep it sparse to maintain slim profiles that sink naturally. Practice on scrap thread; avoid over-dubbing to prevent bulky flies. Video tutorials can walk you through it step-by-step for patterns like the Zebra Midge. What are the best dubbing materials for specific nymph patterns?For Hare's Ear nymphs, use hare's ear dubbing for its classic bugginess. Pheasant Tails shine with muskrat or Superfine for slim bodies. Prince Nymphs benefit from rabbit fur's absorbency, while Zebra Midges pop with Ice Dub's flash. BWOs call for olive SLF Prism for translucency. These pairings ensure realistic imitations—multi-color options let you match hatches easily. Where can I buy quality dubbing materials for fly tying beginners?Quality dubbing materials for fly tying are widely available online, with beginner-friendly packs and free shipping on larger orders. Source ethically, with options for naturals and synthetics. Check sales (e.g., February dubbing deals) for value. Browse for bundles including tools and threads to start your nymph kit today.

Guest Blogger:  Mary S. Kuss, Life-long avid angler, licensed PA fishing guide (retired), founder of the Delaware Valley Women’s Fly Fishing Association. The “Roadkill” Stage of Fly Tying Many fly tyers go through a “roadkill” stage, unable to resist the temptation of “free” materials. This is a bad idea for a number of reasons, and most of us grow out of this tendency fairly quickly. I still have a bag of Gray Squirrel tails I collected many years ago. Squirrels are a common roadkill item. I stopped picking up and skinning whole carcasses after I had a couple of pelts. But for a long time I carried a pair of pruning shears in the car for the sole purpose of collecting tails. If I spotted a nice fresh kill, it was very easy to pull over, snip off the tail, and bring it home to dry well and then store in a Ziploc bag with some moth nuggets. When I had a large bag full of tails, I stopped this too. I use some of my squirrel tail supply now and then, if I need to tie a few Picket Pins or something else that calls for it. But when I shuffle off this mortal coil, some other tyer may be lucky enough to inherit what’s left—which should be a lot. Whoopee. The Fox Squirrel Incident One of my most memorable roadkill events involved a deceased Fox Squirrel in Cleveland, OH. I was on a road trip with my mother-in-law to visit her friends and relatives there. I had never seen a live Fox Squirrel before and was amazed and fascinated by their size and color. We saw lots of them on lawns right in the city, as common as Gray Squirrels were at home in southeastern Pennsylvania. One day we were out in the car and I spotted a freshly whacked Fox Squirrel on the side of the road. “Wow, a Fox Squirrel!” I exclaimed. “And it’s in really good shape.” My mother-in-law, who by this time knew my weird proclivities all too well, shot me a look and said calmly, “Mary, no.” The Craft Store Phase: When “More” Isn’t Better Then there’s the craft store phase. Why pay, say, three or four dollars for a spool or card of yarn from a fly tying retailer when you could have a whole skein for not much more? Let me tell you something. I have storage containers full of skeins and balls and snippets of yarn that I’ve either purchased or inherited from other tyers or needlework enthusiasts. I rarely use any of it. Unless you tie flies on an industrial scale, why would you ever need a whole skein of anything? I once thought, “I’ll buy variegated yarn so I’ll have a number of different colors in one skein.” The variegated skein doesn’t get any more use than the others. When I need yarn, I almost always head for my collection of spooled and carded yarn. Sold in fly-tying-friendly quantities, I can have far more colors and types of yarn without the problem of storing what seems like enough to stock a sweater factory. Now, with the hindsight of over 50 years of avid fly tying, this seems like a no-brainer. But I had to learn the hard way. Hey, look at the bright side. Some lucky tyer will inherit my yarn collection too. Field-Sourced Materials: Deer Hair and Bucktail I gave up hunting some years back, but at one time I did a fair amount of it. I was never a serious deer hunter, but I liked venison and would try to harvest a deer each winter. When I was successful, I’d keep the tail and the hide as well. I knew how to clean and preserve these items properly, and I still have what I’m sure is a lifetime supply of general-utility deer hair and bucktail. However, I buy specialty deer and elk hair for specific fly tying purposes. If you’re tying Comparaduns or X-Caddis, not just any patch of hair will do. In fly tying, results always depend on the quality of one’s materials. Considering the time and effort we put into our tying, it’s penny-wise and pound-foolish to cheap out. Uhhh…what’s a penny? Upland Birds, Feathers, and the Occasional Surprise I used to do some upland bird hunting. My husband and I owned four Brittanies over a period of 35 years or so, and I enjoyed being in the field with them—mostly for game farm birds on shooting preserves. I came away with plenty of pheasant, quail, and the odd chukar or Hungarian Partridge. One time, one of my dogs went on point at the edge of a field, and I was very surprised to flush and kill a pen-reared Mallard—a temporary survivor of a corporate tower shoot. I had many wonderful meals from those birds and also saved some very nice feathers and skins for tying. The Materials Mother Nature Provides The one bit of field-sourcing of fly tying materials I still engage in is picking up feathers and occasional bits of fur that I find in my yard—either naturally shed or scraps left behind by predators. Red-tailed Hawks are residents here, but most of their kills tend to be squirrels. They leave nothing behind but bits of the tail—for which I have no need at this point. See above. I also host a Cooper’s Hawk most winters, typically an immature bird whose hunting skills are not finely tuned as yet. Many of these young birds would not survive their first winter if not for the relatively easy pickings to be had by hanging around a bird-feeding station. So I don’t begrudge them this important survival tactic. And I get to see them close-up and at work, which I regard as a wonderful gift in itself. A Feather, A Fly, and a Little Magic I picked up a lone Mourning Dove feather in my yard recently, and it called out to be made into an Iron Blue Dun soft hackle. And I once found a patch of very nice Starling hackles, perfect for a soft-hackle pattern my friend Jim Clark shared with me. Maybe I’m too superstitious, but I’d like to believe these gifts from Mother Nature have magical properties when they’re at the end of my tippet.

Discover essential dubbing tools for fly tying, from twisters to brushes. Our practical guide compares top options like Stonfo and Hareline for nymphs and streamers. Shop reliable tools at J. Stockard Fly Fishing for better blending and buggy profiles.

Discover proven winter fly tying dubbing blends for midges and Blue-Winged Olives. Expert recipes using natural and synthetic materials for cold-water trout patterns. Shop J. Stockard's selection.

The Origins of Touch Dubbing and Gary LaFontaine's Double Magic By Guest Blogger, Todd Turner of Armstrong Creek Outfitters At a Chicago-area fly fishing show in the mid-90's, I had the great fortune of watching Gary LaFontaine demonstrate his Twist Nymph and share the pattern's origin story. From that experience, and over subsequent years of learning from his books and newsletters, I became a disciple of his theories of attraction and methods of imitation. His Twist Nymph and numerous other LaFontaine originals incorporate novel fly tying materials and techniques that solved riddles from his countless hours underwater observing real bugs and trout in their natural habitat. His simple Twist Nymph incorporated what he called "Double Magic"—a body made of peacock herl twisted within a loop of thread that was "touch dubbed" with his own concoction of Antron-based fly tying dubbing. See Product Why Touch Dubbing Works: Understanding the Visual Triggers Gary recognized that the reflective properties of Antron fibers closely mimic the visual triggers of trapped air bubbles that help lift many emerging pupa toward the surface. He witnessed feeding trout selectively key in on these visual features. Benefits of Touch Dubbing for Fly Tying As I have developed my own patterns over the years, almost all of my nymph, larva, and pupa imitations use touch dubbing in some component—as both a technique and special fly tying material. I believe that touch dubbing, underwater, produces a look of life and struggle and motion which indicate opportunity to a trout. Key Advantages of the Touch Dubbing Method Subtle realism: Adds a subtle glint without producing unnatural flash Sparse application: Creates the life-effect without adding unnatural bulk, particularly on tiny patterns Natural proportions: Avoids over-dressing common to many patterns compared to svelte natural insects How to Make Touch Dubbing: Materials and Preparation Selecting the Right Fly Tying Dubbing Material There are a couple of important key steps to the touch dubbing method: dubbing fiber selection, application to the thread, and applying fly tying dubbing to the hook. Critical requirement: You need fly tying material with very short fiber length, usually 1/4" or smaller. Most synthetic and many natural dubbing fibers have fiber lengths of an inch or more and are unsuitable for touch dubbing straight out of the pack, so you need to cut it. Creating Custom Touch Dubbing Blends Over the past few years, I have been making my own blends of touch dubbing which allows me to create the color and effect I'm trying to achieve for particular patterns. All of my blends contain some Antron. Step-by-step process: Pull a section of dubbing from the pack Align the fibers in small clumps Place the clump in a clip (or your fingers) Cut the clump into quarter-inch sections Blend and fluff it in a spice grinder Processing time: About 20 minutes per pack Touch Dubbing Blend Recipes for Different Patterns Big Easy Midge Pupa: Pure Antron to create a faint veil extending back over the thorax, imitating writhing struggling wing buds and legs Baetis nymph legs: All-Antron application Caddis pupa and scud patterns: Touch-dubbed rib on the abdomen Sowbug blend: Short hairs from cream snowshoe hare's feet pads added to an Antron base Caddis pupa thorax: Includes spikey hare's mask, squirrel, or Australian possum for added bulk and flow If you're not excited about making your own touch dubbing, Al and Gretchen Beatty (btsflyfishing.com) produce ready-to-go touch dubbing called "Double Magic." Touch Dubbing Technique: Step-by-Step Instructions Basic Touch Dubbing Method The typical technique for touch dubbing follows these steps: Apply wax: Tap soft tacky wax (I use Overton's Wonder Wax) along a length of thread Add dubbing: Dab a wad of touch dubbing material along the waxed thread so thin fibers stick Distribute fibers: Spin your bobbin just a few rotations to distribute fibers around the thread Wrap onto hook: Wrap the flocked thread onto the hook—it's very simple Critical Touch Dubbing Technique Tips Important nuance: Don't spin the dubbing fibers around the thread with your fingers like you would to create a traditional dubbing noodle. Simply start wrapping the flocked thread onto the hook. The thread wraps bind many, but not all fibers to the hook. As you wrap the thread, preen the fibers on the hook rearward as you go forward to avoid matting down too many fibers with successive wraps. Some fibers come off as you proceed and preen, but that's part of the idea. Less is much more. You're trying to create a sparse veil-type effect that allows light to show through, traps some air and creates a few bubbles underwater, and adds life-like chaos to the pattern. Advanced Touch Dubbing: The Split Thread Technique A couple of months ago, I started using a split thread technique for touch dubbing which gives more surface area to grab more fibers and holds on better to the fly tying dubbing while you wrap it to the hook. This method gives better control over the amount of fibers that end up on the finished fly. How to Split Fine Thread for Touch Dubbing I typically use Semperfli 18/0 Nano Silk, which is awesome because it's so strong and adds so little bulk, but it's very fine stuff and a little tough to split easily. Keys to splitting small thread: Use magnifying glass or powerful reading glasses Use high-quality, very sharp dubbing needle or bodkin Flatten the thread with your fingernail to give a broader target Practice consistently (it took me a few weeks to master 18/0) Complementary Fly Tying Materials for Touch Dubbing Patterns Take a look at photos and videos of my Big Easy Scud that show how I make and use touch dubbing to create simple and realistic imitations. I use a material called Stretch Glass by Sybai as the base material for all my midge, caddis, and small mayfly larva, pupae, and nymphs. It's a little hard to find, but worth the search. You can use various "Scud Back" type fly tying materials, but they're not quite as easy to use for me. Design Philosophy: Creating Life-Like Fly Patterns Principles for Effective Fly Design I believe in subtlety, sparseness, natural proportions, and simplicity. I always start my pattern design with the real bug, and I share Gary's reliance upon first-hand observation. I love catching trout stream bugs and taking macro pictures and videos to reference in my pattern development. When I'm unable to get a stream sample myself, I search in books, magazines, and online for pictures or videos of insects I'm trying to imitate. Recommended Resources for Pattern Development Regarding midges, Midge Magic, published in 2001 by Don Holbrook and Ed Koch, provides wonderful macro photos of midge pupae and larvae that were pumped from fish that were released unharmed. These are bugs that fish ate. The color variety and detail in these images led to my creating the Big Easy Midge series. My Pattern Development Process Whenever I come up with a new idea: Start with a little sketch Tie the bug Attach it to tippet Put it in a glass of water to see how it looks Presentation Tips: Adding Life to Your Touch Dubbed Flies When I'm fishing, I add life to my presentation by attaching the fly to the tippet using a Uni-knot, leaving a very small open loop at the hook eye so the fly can swing more freely in the current. I hope you have a chance to try these touch dubbing techniques and find them as successful as I do.

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Most fly tyers select hooks based on size and style alone, without fully understanding the nuanced anatomy that makes each hook perform differently in a fly. Read on:  The Essential Components Of Fly Tying Hooks The Eye The eye is where your tippet or leader connects to the hook, and its orientation significantly affects fly presentation. Up-eye hooks (common in dry flies) help the fly ride higher on the water's surface. Down-eye hooks are versatile workhorses used in nymphs and wet flies, while straight-eye hooks offer neutral positioning ideal for streamers and certain specialty patterns. The eye's shape matters too. Ring eyes are standard, but looped eyes provide extra strength for larger patterns.  See Product See Product See Product The Shank The shank is the straight section between the eye and the bend. Its length dictates your fly's profile and silhouette. Standard shank hooks match traditional proportions, while long shank hooks (2X, 3X, or even 4X long) let you tie extended-body patterns like streamers and damselfly nymphs. Short shank hooks are perfect for compact patterns like scuds and eggs. The shank's weight also varies. Standard wire works for most applications, but heavy wire (2X or 3X heavy) helps nymphs sink faster and is needed for toothy critters, while light wire (1X or 2X fine) keeps dry flies floating delicately. The Bend The bend is where the hook curves, and it's crucial to hook-setting success. Round bends offer classic proportions and reliable hooking. Wide gape bends create more space between the point and shank, improving hook-up ratios on short strikes or oddly shaped patterns such as crabs and crustaceans. Continuous bends flow smoothly from shank to point, while offset bends feature a slight twist that can improve penetration. Popular bend styles include: Sproat bend: Wide and round, excellent for dry flies Aberdeen bend: Long, sweeping curve with light wire, perfect for live bait and delicate presentations where you want minimal damage Round bend: Classic semicircular shape, versatile for nearly any pattern from dries to nymphs Bend Back: Sharp reverse angle that brings the point back toward the shank, designed for weedless fishing through heavy cover Limerick bend: Gradual curve, great for wet flies and nymphs York bend: Tighter curve, ideal for smaller patterns The Ultimate Guide To Fly Tying Hooks Read more Choosing the Right Hook Size for Every Fly Read more The Point The business end of any hook, the point must penetrate quickly and hold securely. Needle points are extremely sharp but can dull quickly. Spear points offer a good balance of sharpness and durability. Rolled points turn slightly inward for better penetration, while hollow points create a cutting edge that slices through tough jaw tissue. Premium hooks often feature chemically sharpened points that are sharper than mechanically sharpened alternatives and maintain their edge longer. The Barb The small projection below the point, the barb prevents the hook from backing out. While traditional barbed hooks offer security, many trout anglers prefer barbless hooks or pinch down barbs for easier catch-and-release (and hook removal should you pin yourself or your boat buddy!). Micro-barbed hooks split the difference, offering some holding power with less fish damage. The Gape The gape is the distance between the point and the shank. The 'gap' in essence. Wider gapes improve hooking percentages, especially on fast-striking fish or patterns with bulky bodies such as crab and crustacean patterns. Narrow gapes work well for sparse patterns where you want the hook to remain subtle but you might compromise on hook-up rates. Gape is an on-going debate among fly-fishers and one of those things that comes down to confidence... You know what we mean - fish something with confidence and it works.  Matching Hooks to Patterns Understanding anatomy helps you select the perfect hook for each fly. Delicate mayfly emergers demand light-wire, wide-gape hooks with up-eyes. Weighted stonefly nymphs need heavy-wire, long-shank hooks with down-eyes. Streamers benefit from stout, straight-eye hooks with generous gapes. Now is a great time to stock up on Fly Tying Hooks:  SHOP THE HOOK SALE