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The Jumbo John in Amber and Black is a durable, heavy, high-profile nymph built for steelhead and other strong fish that hold deep and feed with intent. Based on the classic John Barr style, this variation tied by Jeff Deshefy adds a bold two-tone wire abdomen, a full thorax, barred legs, and a soft hen collar for movement and presence in the water.The amber and black wire gives the fly a clean segmented look with just enough flash and contrast, while the tungsten bead and lead wraps help it get down quickly. Fish it as a point fly, under an indicator, or anywhere you need a tough, buggy pattern that can handle current, depth, and repeated takes.Learn more about the fly, and Jeff, here RECIPE • Hook: Tiemco 2457, size 6 • Bead: Wapsi 3/16" gold tungsten bead • Lead Wire: Hareline .020 lead wire • Thread: UTC 70 black and UTC 140 black • Tail: Hareline Goose Biots, Prince Nymph Brown • Abdomen: UTC Ultra Wire, Medium, Amber and Black • Wing Case: Thin Skin, Mottled Bustard in Natural • Wing Case Underlay: UNI Mylar 1/32", #14 Peacock/Orange Optional • Thorax: Dave Whitlock’s SLF Pattern Blends, Brown Stone • Legs: MFC Medium Barred Sexi-Floss, Brown • Collar: Wapsi Soft Hen Hackle, Speckled Brown • Finish: UV resin or epoxy Jumbo John Variant Tying StepsStep 1 Slide the gold tungsten bead onto the hook and secure the hook firmly in the vise. Make 10 to 12 wraps of .020 lead wire around the hook shank. Break off the excess and push the lead wraps snugly forward into the back of the bead. Start the UTC 70 thread directly behind the lead wraps. Step 2 Advance the tying thread rearward into the bend of the hook, stopping just shy of halfway down the bend. Build a small thread bump with about five turns of thread. Tie in two opposing goose biots to form a tail approximately 1/4" long. Advance the thread forward again so it rests directly behind the lead wraps. Step 3 Cut two equal lengths of wire, one amber and one black, each approximately 7.5" long. Position both wires along the near side of the hook shank, directly behind the lead wraps. Place the amber wire beneath the black wire to improve contrast. Secure both strands with tight, even thread wraps, binding them down along the shank to the base of the tail. Advance the UTC 70 thread back to just behind the lead wraps, then tie it off. Start the UTC 140 thread and build a smooth, tapered body, ending approximately one-third of a hook eye length behind the eye. Step 4 Wrap both wire strands forward at the same time to form the abdomen. Maintain firm, even tension to keep the wires aligned and create clean, balanced segmentation. Minor adjustments may be needed as you advance. End the wire wraps approximately one-third of a hook eye length behind the eye. Secure the wire ends and finish with a five- or six-turn whip finish. Step 5 Restart the UTC 70 thread at the point where the abdomen was tied off. Advance the thread rearward until it stops just in front of the hook point. Tie in a strip of Thin Skin approximately 3/16" wide, securing it tightly and keeping it centered on top of the hook shank. Continue wrapping forward to bind down and clean up the Thin Skin tie-in. Step 6 Tie in a 2" length of UNI Mylar with the peacock-colored side facing up. Keep it centered on top of the hook shank and aligned within the Thin Skin. This orientation allows the orange side to show when the material is folded forward over the thorax. Step 7 Create a 3" to 4" dubbing noodle and dub from the rear edge of the Thin Skin forward to the bead. Then work the dubbing back approximately halfway to form a thick, rounded thorax over the front third of the hook. Focus on building a robust profile while leaving a small section lightly dubbed directly behind the bead. With the thread positioned at the midpoint of the thorax, make two or three turns of bare thread to secure the dubbing. Step 8 Remove a single strand of leg material from the hank. Fold it in half and cut the loop to create two equal lengths. Attach one leg to the near side of the hook shank at the midpoint of the thorax, securing it with even wraps. Repeat the process on the far side. Once both legs are secure, create a 2" to 3" dubbing noodle and apply dubbing between the legs, advancing it forward to just behind the bead. Step 9 This step differs from the traditional John Barr method, as the wing case is not folded over yet. Select a speckled brown hen saddle feather. Prepare it by removing the fluffy lower fibers until the remaining barbs are approximately the length of the hook shank. Hold the feather by the tip, stroke the barbs rearward, and clip a small section of the stem to create a clean tie-in anchor. Secure the feather directly behind the bead. Step 10 Grip the stem of the hen saddle feather with hackle pliers or your fingertips. Lift and preen the barbs rearward, then wrap the feather forward around the hook shank, making two full turns. Step 11 Divide the hen saddle hackle barbs evenly along the centerline of the hook shank. Pull the UNI Mylar forward over the thorax and secure it with a few firm wraps. Next, fold the Thin Skin forward, keeping it centered on top of the hook shank, and secure it with five to six additional wraps. Finish the fly with a five- or six-turn whip finish. Step 12 Trim the remaining Thin Skin and UNI Mylar close to the thread. A razor blade can be used for a cleaner, more precise cut. Apply your preferred UV resin or epoxy to the wing case. Work a small amount into the final turns of the wire abdomen to improve durability. Your Jumbo John in Amber and Black is now ready to fish. The finished fly has weight, contrast, movement, and durability, exactly what you want in a hard-working steelhead nymph.

Fly fishing for smallmouth bass in rivers during the summer can be an exhilarating experience, especially when you're armed with a reliable, easy-to-tie pattern like the Mr. Wiggly foam bug. The original Ol' Mr. Wiggly was developed by Wisconsin smallmouth guide Charlie Piette as a stealthy, low-floating surface pattern for low, clear water conditions in the Midwest, where bass often shy away from the splashy disturbance of traditional poppers. It combines elements of oversized sponge panfish spiders and Western terrestrial patterns for a subtle, natural drift. In this guide, Greg Patterson — shares a variation that has become a staple in his box summer after summer. This is a slightly higher-floating version that's easy to see on the water, with added buoyancy and a shiny, light-refracting foam body that smallmouth bass can't resist.Materials Hook: Gamakatsu B10S, size 6 Foam Body: Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam, cut into strips approximately 2.5" long × 0.25" wide Middle Foam Layer: 2mm craft foam, cut into 2" × 0.25" strips Thread: 12/0 Semperfli Nano Silk Legs: Round rubber legs Wings: Round rubber legs Sighter: Small rectangle of foam (cut from excess body foam) Eyes (Optional): Red push pins Adhesives: Super glue (e.g., Loctite gel superglue) Learn more about fly tying for Bass, here. How to Tie the Mr. Wiggly Foam Bug Variation  Mr. Wiggly Foam Bug Variation Tying StepsStep 1Prepare the Hook and Foam Body: Place the Gamakatsu B10S size 6 hook in your vise. Take a piece of Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam (approximately 2.5" long × 0.25" wide) and fold it in half to gauge the bug's size. Pro Tip: When piercing the foam, start by piercing the shiny side first at the point where the head of the fly will start. Then pierce the matte side about a shank's length back toward the tail. This orientation ensures the shiny Loco Foam is visible from both the top and bottom of the finished fly, enhancing its light-refracting flash. It also eliminates the need to dub the hook shank. Pierce the foam with the hook point so the body can wrap around the shank. Fold again and pierce a second time, ensuring the holes are about a shank's length apart.Step 2Secure the Foam to the Hook: Slide the foam onto the hook shank. Apply a bead of super glue on top of the foam and insert a strip of 2mm craft foam (2" × 0.25") to create a sandwich for added buoyancy. Glue and fold the outer foam around the shank, securing it fully.Step 3Create Body Segments: Start at the point where the hook exits the bottom of the foam. Lay the 12 Semperfli Nano Silk thread on top and make one wrap, pulling tension away from you to cinch the foam down. Add 2-3 more wraps and tighten. Apply a dab of Loctite gel superglue to the thread wraps for security. Repeat this process to create 5 segments: one tail, three body, and one head. Each segment is formed by wrapping thread slightly up the shank and pulling down to bulb out the foam.Step 4Add Rubber Legs: On the third segment, cut rubber legs to half length then fold in half a second time and cut again for shorter legs. Position two sets around the body, lifting the thread to place them. Pull tight to flare the legs slightly. Secure with additional wraps and tension.Step 5Install Wings: For the head segment, use 3 half strands of rubber legs. Tie them in like the smaller legs on the 3rd segment, positioning them slightly higher on the body. Secure with wraps.Step 6Finish the Head and Trim: Move the thread to the hook eye, peel back the head slightly, and add tight wraps. Hand whip finish (4-6 loops) to secure, avoiding the legs and foam. Trim excess thread. Shape the tail into a point, leaving it long. Trim legs to body length. Optional Embellishments: Add eyes by dabbing super glue on trimmed red push pins and inserting them into the head.

The Nut Job is a two-section articulated predator fly created by Brendan Ruch, tied here by Jessica Suvak of Girl Talk Live. Built around Fulling Mill marabou, craft fur, rubber legs, and a Changer brush body on articulated shanks, it pushes water effectively and maintains a full, lifelike profile on the strip without collapsing. The tri-color craft fur head — green, yellow, and a touch of orange — gives it what Jess calls a "sherbet popsicle" finish that's hard for fish to ignore.Jess runs it on an Ahrex TP610 Trout Predator hook with a Hairline plummeting tungsten bead up front, connected via wire or hard mono to a tail shank dressed with marabou, schlappen or hen saddle, and rubber legs. The bead adds weight and kick to the movement, though the hook can also be keeled with wire if you prefer to fine-tune the action streamside.Originally tied as a smallmouth pattern, the Nut Job earns its keep on pike too — Jess credits a version of Brendan Ruch's fly with her biggest pike to date. A solid pre-spawn option for bass and toothy critters when fish are looking for something with real bulk and movement.Materials Hooks: Rear - TP610 (size 2 or 4), Front - TP610 (size 1 or 2). Shank: 15mm or 25mm articulated shank. Tail: Marabou. Body/Collar: Fulling Mill brush Legs: Fulling Mill Rubber Legs. Head: Hollow-tied Craft Fur (often stacked/wrapped for bulk). Weight: Hairline 3/16 brass bead Thread: Matching color, 140 denier. How to Tie the Nut Job  

This unweighted zonker-style streamer from Justin Bowman is a versatile baitfish and leech imitation that has proven itself on Midwest smallmouth rivers, driftless trout streams, and big western tailwaters like the Missouri River near Craig. The fly combines the flowing movement of rabbit fur with a lightly built synthetic head and collar, producing a pattern that swims naturally and maintains a lifelike profile without added weight.Justin prefers fishing this fly with different line systems depending on the water. On larger rivers he uses a 7-weight rod paired with a Rio 15-foot Type VI sink tip to get the fly down quickly, while on smaller streams he fishes it on a floating line with various leaders to control depth. Color options are nearly limitless, but black, purple, and orange remain his personal favorite combination. With its flowing rabbit strip tail, flashy collar, and subtle head profile, it’s a fly that will catch fish anywhere predators are looking for an easy meal.This is the ideal fly for pre-spawn, Spring bass fishing, read more about what you need to fly fish for bass, here. Materials Hook: Gamakatsu B10S, size 2 Thread: Veevus GSP 100 denier, black (or white colored with markers) Zonker: 1/8" rabbit fur strip, black Chenille: Medium chenille, black Palmer Material: Medium palmer chenille, black Collar: EP Sparkle Brush, black/purple Head: Senyo’s Laser Dub, black (top) and orange (bottom) Eyes: Flymen Living Eyes, Ice 6 mm Adhesive: Loctite Gel Super Glue or Tear Mender Finish: Loon Thin Clear Fly Finish FLY OF THE MONTH - Sparkle Zonker Tying StepsStep 1 Cut a rabbit zonker strip approximately 3 inches long. Before cutting or tying, wet your fingers and separate the fibers so they part cleanly around the hide. Apply a light coating of super glue to the hook shank before starting the thread. Start the thread near the hook eye and wrap down the shank to the bend, covering the hook and wiping off excess glue if needed. Place the rabbit strip on top of the shank just behind the hook eye and estimate the tie-in point. Separate the rabbit fibers at that spot and secure the strip with two tight wraps of GSP thread. Preen fibers upward before tightening. Step 2 Advance the thread slightly forward and add a few more securing wraps to lock the rabbit strip in place. Then, tie in the palmer chenille first, followed by the medium chenille. Wrap the medium chenille forward to form the body, stopping short of the eye. Secure and trim. Wrap the palmer chenille forward through the body to add movement and texture. Secure and trim the excess. Step 3 Part the palmer chenille fibers on top of the hook and pull the rabbit strip forward over the body. Secure the hide with several tight thread wraps. Trim the excess rabbit hide but leave a small section so the tie-in remains secure. Apply a small drop of super glue and reinforce with additional thread wraps. Step 4 Tie in the EP Sparkle Brush and wrap it forward three turns to form a collar, brushing fibers out as you wrap. Secure and trim. Prepare a small clump of black Senyo’s Laser Dub by stacking the fibers lightly to align them. Tie the clump in at the center so the fibers extend forward over the eye and remain on the top half of the hook. Prepare a clump of orange Laser Dub and tie it in the same way on the bottom of the shank. Whip finish behind the forward-facing Laser Dub fibers and cut the thread. Step 5 Tease the Laser Dub fibers up and down to shape the head. Apply a small drop of super glue or Tear Mender on each side of the thread base and attach the 6 mm eyes. Comb the Laser Dub fibers rearward and apply a thin coat of UV fly finish near the hook eye to lock the head in place. Cure with a UV light.

The Big Easy Scud by Todd Turner of Armstrong Creek Outfitters is a sparse, highly translucent scud imitation built around his split-thread touch dubbing technique. Designed to closely replicate the natural glow, segmentation, and subtle movement of real freshwater scuds, this pattern combines a Stretch Glass underbody with a lightly applied veil of Antron-based dubbing. The result is a lifelike profile that allows light to pass through the body while suggesting motion and natural texture. A subtle touch of orange in the dubbing mimics egg sacs often seen in live scuds, and the finished fly rides slim and realistic in the water. It is particularly effective on tailwaters and any system where scuds are a primary food source.Materials Hook: TMC 226BL barbless hook, size 16 Bead: 2mm tungsten bead, mottled olive Thread Base: Semperfli Classic Waxed Thread, Watery Olive Working Thread: Semperfli 18/0 Nano Silk, Brick Beige Shell Back: Stretch Glass by Sybai, 5mm strip tapered to a point Abdomen Underbody: Stretch Glass by Sybai, 2.5–3mm strip Dubbing: Short-fiber touch dubbing blend (olive/tan with small amount of orange Antron) Wax: Overton’s Wonder Wax (for traditional touch dubbing application) Tying NotesA thread base of watery olive is applied first to eliminate the dark hook shine beneath the translucent body. The abdomen is formed by wrapping a narrow strip of Stretch Glass rearward to create a thin, realistic underbody. Split-thread touch dubbing (learn how to do that here) is then applied sparingly, allowing fibers to stand perpendicular to the thread for a natural leg and movement effect. After wrapping the dubbed thread forward, fibers are gently preened downward before pulling the wider Stretch Glass shell forward and securing it behind the bead. The result is slim, segmented, and highly realistic.Learn more about the history of this pattern as well as the Touch Dubbing technique, here. How to Tie the The Big Easy Scud 

Devon Olsen's Blowtorch is a super tasty little fly in the popular euro nymph competition genre. This one is tied by Tim Flagler of Tightline Productions.Materials Hook: Barbless black jig hook (here a FM5045 Jig Force), sizes 10-16. Head: Copper slotted tungsten bead, 7/64-inch. Weight: Lead-free round wire, .015. Thread: Fluorescent Fire Orange, 8/0 or 70-denier. Tag: Fluorescent Fire Orange Antron yarn. Rib: Green Sulky Holoshimmer Metallic Thread. Body: Peacock herl. Collar: Hen-neck feather fibers. How to Tie the Blowtorch