Fly Fishing Life

Learn how to fish a sink tip fly line more effectively by adjusting streamer color, size, retrieve direction, and pattern choice. Practical on-water insights to help you trigger more trout.

This year, skip the subtle hints and the wishlist nobody's checking. Buy yourself the gifts that actually matter. The ones that'll make you want to sit down at the bench instead of forcing yourself there out of obligation. The Best Gifts For Fly Tyers (If They Were Shopping For Themselves) A Vise That Changes Everything See Product Let’s begin with something a little blunt: if you’re still wrestling with an entry‑level vise, then now is the time to step it up. This Massachusetts-made workhorse combines bulletproof jaw strength with smooth rotary capability, making it the kind of upgrade that transforms your tying sessions from frustrating to effortless. The magic lies in Regal's compression-style jaws—squeeze the lever, drop in any hook from size 22 to 3/0, release, and you're locked in tight with zero adjustment needed. That translates your favorite woolly bugger pattern into a size 8 or dropping down to a size 18 midge becomes a two-second hook swap rather than a fumbling jaw-adjustment interlude. While hardcore rotary enthusiasts might prefer vises with more refined center-axis rotation, the Revolution shines for tyers who want the flexibility of occasional rotary work without sacrificing Regal's legendary simplicity.  Yes, it's a serious investment (depending on your jaw and base configuration), but this is a vise you'll still be using twenty years from now—and one that makes every fly you tie just a little bit better. Consider it less of a purchase and more of a long-term relationship with quality American craftsmanship that shows up every time you sit down at the bench. The Material Innovation Nobody Saw Coming See Product See Product See Product Andy Kitchener's ABCs (Andy's Bugs and Creatures) fall into that rare category of fly tying materials that make you rethink entire patterns. Not because they're flashy or trendy, but because they solve problems you didn't realize were problems until you tried them. The Suede Chenille creates segmented bodies with realistic texture and bulk without the weight penalty of natural materials. Caddis larvae, scuds, and stonefly nymphs all look alive underwater instead of like thread wrapped around a hook. Everything is pre-tapered, pre-segmented, and available in sizes that actually match real bugs instead of what we wish bugs looked like. What makes ABCs worth your money though goes way beyond the realism; it's the efficiency. These materials cut tying time in half while improving the final product. You're tying flies that catch fish, and you're doing it faster. And if you've ever tied a realistic nymph only to watch it get demolished by the first trout, you'll appreciate the durability. ABCs materials hold up to teeth, rocks, and the kind of abuse that makes natural materials disintegrate. The Right (Rite) Bobbin See Product The Rite Bobbin has an adjustable tension 'click-drag' that lets you dial in exactly how much resistance you want. Tying with 14/0 on a size 22 midge? Light tension. Wrapping GSP on a size 2 streamer? Crank it up. The ceramic tube prevents fraying, and the solid brass arm means this thing will outlast your tying bench. Dr. Slick Razor Scissors See Product If you're still using the scissors that came in your starter kit, it's time. Not because they're broken—they probably still work—but because "work" and "excellent" are different standards. Dr. Slick Razor Scissors feature micro-serrated blades on one side and a smooth razor edge on the other. The serrations grip synthetics and bucktail without slipping. The razor edge slices through CDC and hackle stems without crushing. And the adjustable tension screw means you can tune them for delicate dry fly work or bulk streamer trimming. Choosing a Style of Fly Tying Scissors Read more Must-Have Fly Tying Scissors for Precision Read more Loon UV Infiniti Light See Product If you’ve been fumbling with cheap UV torches or still waiting minutes for cement to dry, the Infiniti Light feels like a revelation. With a powerful beam, consistent output, and USB-rechargeable battery (included), it cures UV resin cleanly and quickly. The design is sleek but serious, built to last on your bench for seasons to come. This is an upgrade that improves the quality and flow of your tying instantly.  Go on, treat yourself...

Some time ago I wrote a blog on how to take advantage of “windows of activity” that occur as water is rising or falling during a runoff event on the river. I mentioned in passing that I like using a sink-tip fly line in conjunction with streamers that have a spun deer hair head. This blog explores why this combination can be deadly when streamer fishing. There are many decisions one must make when streamer fishing. The following are some of the basic choices to make about the streamer: Size Color Style Fishing up- or downstream As always, any tool works best in a handful of situations. That’s why our fly vests are stuffed with dozens and dozens of flies and who knows how many gadgets. This blog will focus on the advantages of using a sink-tip fly line with spun deer hair streamers. These lines can be used with any type of streamer. However, streamers with a spun deer hair head have some unique advantages. That is the topic of this blog. The Set-up: The line: Diagram 1 below shows the components of a generic sink tip line. The sink tip portion is usually a different color from the rest of the line. Working from right to left, it consists of a short sinking front taper and the sink tip body. Together these are referred to as the sink tip. This portion is weighted and can often be purchased in different weights leading to faster and slower sink rates. The sink tip is followed by the floating body and the back taper which is attached to the running line which also floats. The floating body and back taper make it easier to lift the line off the water.  Components of a Generic Sink Tip Fly Line Choosing the right sink tip line  Sink tip fly lines consist of a sinking tip section attached in front of a floating line. The sink tip can be various lengths and have different sink rates. A shorter sink tip with a slower sink rate is designed for use in shallower water with little or modest current since they sink more slowly. Longer sink tips are designed to go deeper faster and are for use in deeper water with more current. You may have to try a couple of different lines to find what works best for the river conditions you will be fishing. A good fly shop should be able to coach you through that choice. Being frugal by nature, I found my first line on sale on-line. It turned out to be too heavy for my rivers. Consequently, I spent a lot of time getting the line freed up from rocks. After I decided this was something I was going to commit to, I purchased a shorter and lower sink rate line that minimizes the line catching on rocks and other obstacles in the river.  A large arbor reel and two or three extra spools are highly recommended The sink tip portion of the line is prone to line memory which will make casting more difficult. A large arbor reel will minimize this problem. Having two or more spare spools allows you to switch between dry fly fishing with a floating line and multiple sink tip lines to use in various conditions. There are some decent reels that come with two extra spools and will not break the bank while still being serviceable. I have three spools. One for dry fly fishing and shallow streamer situations, a short slow sink tip line when getting a streamer a little deeper is necessary, and a longer and faster sink tip line when I need to get the streamer deeper into bigger holes. It only takes 7-9 minutes to switch spools and tie on a new fly or flies (I have timed that, so it is a real number. I had to convince myself it wasn’t that hard to switch over.) A quick side note on sink tip fly lines. Most of the time you experience a snag, it is actually the line itself getting caught on an obstruction. At first, I didn’t appreciate that as I was fishing in cloudy run-off water. It wasn’t until I fished in clearer water where I discovered the line was snagged. The beauty of that is a strong roll cast going past where the line is stuck will almost always free the line and you can continue fishing! The Leader Unlike dry fly fishing where long tapered leaders are needed. Streamer fishing with a sink tip line works best with a 4–5-foot leader consisting of equal lengths (24-32 inches) of 20-pound test and 10–12-pound test monofilament or fluorocarbon. Each has its own benefits; monofilament is more supple while fluorocarbon is more abrasion resistant. If you are like me, I use whatever I have on hand. The leader is purposefully short and is an important factor in getting your fly to the proper depth.  Mono vs. Fluorocarbon: What’s Between You and the Fish Read more 5 Knots For Building Leaders Read more The Big Advantages Of Sink Tip Fly Lines: Using a sink tip line makes it easier to pick your line up off the water and cast than a full sinking line and you don’t have to go to larger and heavier rods needed to handle full sinking lines. The action this impart to streamers with a spun deer hair head. Diagram 2 below shows in cartoon form what happens. The strip causes the streamer to be pulled under water and the pause allows the streamer to rise. This imitates an injured or dying prey fish and triggers the take. You can cast very close to shore or other structure in the water without snagging since the fly floats. This is important as fish often hold very close to areas like this. I have seen fish smash the streamer the instant it hits the water! This is the step-by-step sequence during the retrieve shown in the cartoon below. Step 1: The sink tip has sunk which creates a belly between the floating line and the floating streamer. When the angler makes the first strip, it pulls the streamer down into the water. Step 2: The depth that the streamer goes depends on how long the angler waits to make the first strip and the length of the strip. The longer the angler waits before the first strip, the deeper the belly goes into the water and the deeper it will take the streamer. The longer the strip, the deeper the streamer goes. So, the angler has many variables to control to determine how deep the streamer goes on each strip. Step 3: The angler pauses between strips. The longer the pause between the strips, the more the streamer rises. If you wait long enough, the streamer can even return to the surface. Step 4: The angler strips line again and the streamer is pulled deeper and repeats the cycle of steps 1-3. The key factor is the streamer rises on the pause between the strips which imitates a dying or injured fish. This can be like waving a big piece of prime rib in front of a hungry lion. Notice, I said, “can be.” If the fish are on as I described in a previous blog, “Opportunistic Streamer Fishing,” they will smash the streamer. However, if the fish are off, you can cast for a very long time without seeing a single fish. However, in conditions like this, if you do trigger a fish, it can be very big. The operative words are, “can be.” Some anglers fully commit to fishing like this. They would rather catch one trophy fish and are willing to go fishless. I am not one of those anglers. I choose to use this approach judiciously choosing to do it during runoff conditions or at night. Even at night, there are good nights where you will have a lot of action using a sink tip line with a spun deer hair streamer and get some bigger fish. But there are nights where there will be few if any takes. My experience has been that streamer fishing tends to be an either/or situation. Either the fish are on and you will get a lot of action. Or, they are off and little or nothing will happen. But in either situation if you use a larger streamer, you are putting yourself in position to get a bigger fish. Part 2 of this series will explore the importance of: Streamer color, size, and style Fishing upstream or downstream Getting multiple fish out of certain spots Using other types of streamers. ---

Explore how fly tyer and educator Tim Cammisa built Trout & Feather into a global fly fishing brand. Learn his content strategies, top fly patterns, and business insights.

From teacher to fly fishing entrepreneur: Tim Cammisa reveals his strategies for YouTube success, book marketing, and building a profitable brand in fly tying.

A retired fly fishing instructor reflects on the joys and challenges of teaching the sport, the value of patience, and how mentoring beginners deepened his own skills and understanding.

Go behind the vise with renowned fly tyer Tim Flagler in this in-depth interview. Learn about his tying philosophy, favorite techniques, and how he blends tradition with innovation.

Guest Blogger Joe Dellaria delves into how to recognize the conditions leading to high fish activity as runoff begins and ends. He includes some technical aspects to help you recognize and understand how to best take advantage of these conditions. These are his words: I keep a fishing log to track the size of the trout, where it was caught, the weather conditions, and what fly the fish took. Over the years, it has become clear that many of my larger fish (but not all) have been caught as the river level begins rising during runoff and once again as the water level begins returning towards normal. Streamer fishing can be amazing during these windows of activity. If you want to experience these high activity windows, you have to watch the river levels carefully to be on the river during these sweet spots. The upside is you will likely have numerous opportunities to nail a big fish. The downside is these windows of activity often coincide with inclement weather. You have to be strategic about when you go and what you wear but it is well worth the effort and discomfort when you hit one of these windows of activity. My most recent window of activity occurred during a runoff in early May this year. I was taking a friend out for his first wade trip for trout. The week before we had a heavy late April snow which was followed by rain a few days later. The river crested at slightly over 4 feet above normal. We had already picked a day for the outing so we were either going to win or lose big. I was anxious about the water being too high and went the day before to check one of my prime big fish stretches. Nothing – not a bump, follow, or slash after 2 hours of casting. By the end I was worried sick that the next day would be a bust for my friend. I didn’t say anything to my friend and started off in a spot that has produced numerous 15–20-inch trout. I was essentially guiding him as I directed his casts for the first 30-40 minutes. Bad news, my friend saw nothing at all. Undeterred, I suggested I try a few casts with a dry-dropper as I knew this combination would work if the fish were there and feeding. It took 5 casts to produce two 13-inch browns. That meant he had the wrong streamer so we switched to a different one and moved upstream to another good section. Still no luck for my friend. As I watched him retrieving, I realized he wasn’t twitching his rod tip to get the streamer to wobble like a hurt or dying fish. I asked for his rod to show him how to do it and three twitches later a 13-inch brown took the streamer all the way down to his gullet. The fish were on and it was game time! Over the next two and half hours we saw at least 40 good sized browns and caught 10-12 fish between 13-15-inches. I had a 20+ inch fish on for quite a while but he got off just before I was about to net him. One thing to keep in mind when you hit a time like this is that it seems like a lot of fish are missing the streamer. They most likely are not missing; they are chasing your fly out of their territory. If a trout wants your fly, you can’t retrieve it fast enough that they can’t get it. Point in case, it seemed like we had exhausted a stretch as we weren’t getting slashes or takes so I suggested he reel in so we could move up to the next stretch. We were casually chatting about the next spot as he was nearly skipping his streamer across the surface when a 14-inch brown absolutely blasted the fly. I find cases like this both exciting and frustrating. It’s exciting as the water explodes and the fish hooks itself. The frustration is, few if any self-respecting fly fisher would skip a fly across the surface deliberately to catch a fish. The outing above is just one of many I have experienced over the years. The remainder of this blog is my attempt to help others recognize these special conditions, how to capitalize on them, and what I believe are the causes. Each of these should help you take advantage of these windows of activity. Some time ago I wrote a series of blogs on the concept of water visibility which I define as how deep you can clearly see rocks or debris on the river bottom. The amount of ambient light and water clarity combine to produce the resulting water visibility. Below is the summary chart I provided in the earlier blog. Water Clarity is how deep you can clearly see the bottom. It is primarily determined by how clear the water is. However, water surface disturbances also lead to decreasing the water clarity as you see in rapids and riffles or by wind rippling the water surface which reduces water clarity. Ambient Light is how much light is shining on the water: Cloudless sunny skies produce high ambient light Cloudy days produce medium ambient light Night produces very low or no ambient light Below is the summary chart I provided in the earlier blog. * The depths given for the level of water visibility is qualitative to give a sense for how deep you can see into the water. If one desired to get really technical, a Secchi disc could be used. One should be aware of water visibility as it influences where trout both hold and feed. Unless there is a hatch, the higher the water visibility, the deeper the fish will hold and feed. Trout are both a predator and prey. They learn not to be seen to avoid becoming dinner for another trout or other predators; those that don’t get removed from the gene pool! Below is a picture of a 14-inch trout displaying an eagle’s talon mark. He was fortunate enough to escape. I catch 1-3 fish each year with similar gashes. My experience is that when the water visibility is low or very low, fish move into shallower feeding spots. Since the water is cloudy, they can safely be in these areas. Probably the most profound example happened years ago and was my first encounter with a truly large fish. There was this one spot that just screamed, “There’s a large fish here!” I fished it every time I went by for an entire season – all for nought, nothing. I finally decided to bite the bullet and got up before sunrise and arrived at the spot while it was still dark. I knew the spot well so even though I couldn’t see, I had a pretty good idea of where to cast. The fly landed and wham, I felt something and set the hook. Nuts, a snag. I shook my rod a few times to see if I could jostle the fly free and all of a sudden, the snag took off. It ran past me and just kept going. I grabbed my line and pulled hard to try and turn the fish. Pow, the line sounded like the crack of a 22-rifle shot as it broke. I had never had a fish on that I couldn’t turn - rookie mistake! Truth be told, I also had a wind knot about half way up my tapered leader – that’s where the line broke. I walked over to where the fish took my fly and it was 8” deep. In the dark, the water visibility is essentially zero. The fish was in shallow to feed. Most experienced trout fishermen know that bigger fish feed at night. This is consistent with water visibility, as at night water visibility is lowest. Larger fish can move shallower to feed for two reasons: In the dark there are few if any, predators the fish has to worry about Shallower water increases the probability of success I also wrote a blog some time ago on the concept of escape volume. The idea is very simple. As the depth of the water decreases the number of escape routes for the prey decreases. Below is the graphic illustrating this from my previous blog. When water visibility is low, larger fish can move into shallower water to feed more effectively. There are numerous other examples of how fish reduce escape volume to increase feeding efficiency: Whales – work together to blow bubbles around the periphery of a school of krill to reduce the width of the school while other whales come up from under the tightened schools to scoop up the krill.Swordfish – a school of swordfish will work to force a school of sardines to the surface of the ocean and then feed. By doing this they reduce the escape volume by half.Salmon – use the same strategy as swordfish do for herring.Northern – if you have ever fished for northern you know they are famous for hitting a lure as you are about to lift it out of the water. At the surface, the escape volume is reduced by half. These windows of extreme activity combine very low water visibility and smaller escape volumes to increase a trout’s feeding efficiency. The fish that are in shallow are there for one reason, to feed! They don’t take prisoners. When they take your offering, hold on, the strike will often be forceful enough to nearly pull the rod out of your hand. This is not to say you cannot catch larger trout fishing a streamer near the bottom of a deep hole – this happens plenty.  However, if you are on the water during these windows of activity you don’t have to use heavily weights flies or full sinking lines. You can use a floating line or a sink-tip line with lighter flies. This makes for more enjoyable casting and fishing and it is a lot less strenuous on your casting shoulder. Last year in early April we had a runoff event. The water visibility was 4-6” (very low by my classification). Seizing the opportunity, I scurried over to one of my favorite stretches and cast for over an hour without seeing anything. Undeterred, I made the 20-minute trek through a farm field to get to one of my best spots for bigger fish. When the water is that turbid, you have to be very careful getting into the river as you can’t tell how deep it is. I eased into the water to find that the water was just slightly over my waste. I stripped out some line and casually cast my black #2 Zoo Cougar 15 feet downstream to the shore and a 13” brown plowed the streamer immediately after it hit the water. I continued downstream to the tail of the hole and got an 11” brown. This was encouraging so I worked across the river to the other shore to begin fishing upstream. After an hour I had nothing else but decided to finish the head of the run as that can often be very good. The east shore is a rock-studded run with an in cut at the downstream end that creates a dead spot. I cast to the shore behind the dead spot and made 2-3 strips when it felt like I had snagged the bottom. Fortunately, I raised my rod tip to see if I could jostle the fly off the snag and gave a couple of hearty tugs when the rod tip started dancing. With the strong current, it felt like I had Moby Dick on, but I couldn’t see the fish in the turbid water. It was quite some time before the fish ran by, and I caught my first glimpse-now I knew it was bigger than usual. I finally netted a 20” brown trout! After gathering myself, I decided to take a few more casts. In about 15 minutes, I caught a 15” brown, had two other larger fish slash at the streamer right in front of me, and had another larger fish on, which got off. The larger fish were stacked in a spot about the size of a small bathroom. After the runoff was over and the water had cleared, I went back to look at the spot. It was about 12-14 inches deep at normal river height in the current. During runoff it was slightly over knee deep. The dead spot at normal river height was 6-8 inches deep and around 18-20” in those runoff conditions. With the low water visibility, the fish were able to hold in the shallower dead spot and scoot out into the current as the runoff brought a conveyor belt of food past them. I was lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time! Where to fish during a window of activity: Shoreline: The fish often sit in shoreline water that just covers their back. In the best cases, the fish will take the fly as it hits the water. One time I had to shoot the fly under a tree and get it to land in front of a rock. The fly hit the water so hard it skipped up out of the water. The trout leapt out of the water but missed the fly. It took 3-4 more casts before I could get the fly into the same spot without skipping the fly. On the first strip I thought I had snagged as the fly just stopped doubling my rod over. I was getting ready to go across the river to retrieve my fly when the fish took off. It proved to be a 16” brown. All shoreline is not equal. You want to look for submerged cover that provides a break from the current that is as close as possible to shore. It is best to try to land the fly 6-8” away from the shore. However, I have watched the wake of a fish move 6-8 feet to take the fly. Any Submerged Obstacle: Any rock, boulder, log, or edge that is in water 1-2 feet of water provides a break from the current and an excellent ambush point. Cover all sides of the obstacle with different casts. If the spot looks really promising I wade upstream or downstream of it to cast from the opposite direction. It doesn’t happen all the time, but it happens often enough to make it worth your while to do it every now and then. Eddies and Shoreline in Cuts: Eddies often occur when there is an in cut next to faster current. You will want to fish these thoroughly as the window of vision is reduced by the cloudy water. Smaller in cuts in slower water are too small to create an eddy but it creates a perfect holding spot for a trout. The fish will be facing upstream so you will want to place your fly just slightly upstream of the in cut. If possible, let your fly drift naturally for a few seconds before you begin stripping. Keeping your line taught without pulling the fly is important so you can set the hook immediately if there is a take. Dead Spots in a Rapids: These are hard to see if the water is cloudy. I keep casting as I walk through rapids that look too fast to hold a fish. You might be surprised how many fish you will see doing this. However, since the water is fast, the fish often miss the fly. It is fairly unusual to have a fish go for the fly twice, but I always take a couple more casts before moving on. As you find these spots, you will want to remember them. Often, they are good on cloudy days when the water clarity is high. I have one spot where there are two dead spots at the head of a fairly rapid riffle. Almost every time I go by, I either raise or catch a fish in both spots. The Fish Are Active, Cover Water: The strategy is to cover water as fast as you can fish it thoroughly. If nothing is happening in a good-looking spot after several casts move on. The window of activity usually lasts between 1-3 hours. Time spent casting endlessly at a good-looking spot means you are forfeiting casting at a fish that is active elsewhere on the river. You can always come back and try the spot again but it is best to move on to find active fish. Types of Flies: Almost anything can work. Let the fish tell you what they want. I try to start with the easiest flies to cast on a floating line first. If you can get fish on unweighted Girdle Bugs, Woolly Buggers, and other streamers they are best as they are easy to cast and fairly snag proof. Being snag proof is a big advantage when you are casting close to shore. Sometimes it is necessary to use weighted streamers. If that is the case, remember you have to start stripping immediately after the fly lands to avoid snags. Another productive method is to use a sink-tip line with a spun deer hair head such as muddler minnow, zoo cougars, and the like. The sinking line will get the flies a bit further down in the water column (more on this in another blog). Sometimes that is what it takes to trigger the fish. Floating flies with a larger profile often work well. Larger Stimulators, Chernobyl Ants, Killer Beetles (I wrote a blog on these some time ago) are all good choices. You don’t have to worry about a soft landing or perfect presentation. The fish are there to feed and much of their wariness is left behind as they slash at these flies with abandon. Your fly plopping loudly into the water is basically ringing the dinner bell, “It’s time to eat!” Top: #2 Black Girdle Bug #6 Black Wooly Bugger #4 Olive Wooly Bugger #6 Black Girdle Bug. Bottom: Various colored Marabou Muddler Minnows sizes #2-#6 These are some of the flies I have had success with under runoff conditions with low water visibility. There’s no doubt many other types of flies can work. Keep trying different things until you find what is working that day. Every day is a new day. What worked yesterday may or may not work tomorrow. Top: Various colored Zoo Cougars sizes #2-#6  Bottom: 3 different styles of Chernobyl Ants #4-#10 and a #10 Green Killer Beetle Size and color can also be important. That’s why I showed the same fly pattern in other colors. I like to pick one pattern and fish 10-15 minutes. If nothing happens, I try a different color. I stick with one style and size until I try all of the colors. If none of those work, you can either go up or down in size and go through the color rotation. If that doesn’t produce action, try a different style fly. After a while, you will develop a “feel” for what might work and it will get easier to find the right style, size, and color. Sometimes the fish are off and it is best to try a different approach. It’s worth the effort. When you hit the right combination, the action can be lights out good! Trying to hit these “Windows of Activity” is a condition specific situation. Sometimes during run off these can last 2-4 days. If that is the case, you will notice that the frequency and aggressiveness of the takes will start decreasing as the water clears. At some point, the action just stops. It feels like someone came through with a vacuum cleaner and removed all the fish. When this happens, don’t get stuck in a rut and keep casting. After an hour or so of seeing nothing where you saw fish the day before, change approaches. The “Window of Activity” has closed. I had this happen 3-4 days after the runoff I mentioned earlier this spring. I went to one of my favorite stretches where I know there are larger fish and saw absolutely nothing. I switched to a dry-dropper set-up and caught 4 fish in less than an hour going back over the same water. It can be amazing when you hit these conditions. This is not a silver bullet technique. It only works when the water visibility is low or very low. It provides another tool for the tool box. Recognizing the conditions and using these approaches can provide a day or more of astonishing activity – and then it’s over and back to more traditional approaches. Hope this helps!

By Joe Dellaria Most of the big hatches are done by early June in Wisconsin where I fish and it’s 4-6 weeks before the hopper/beetle bite really takes off. The Trico spinner fall helps fill that gap as it usually starts right around the 4 th of July. If you are new to fishing the Trico spinner fall, you may want to read the original post entitled, “The ABCS of the Trico Spinner Fall” it provides the basics for what happens and what you need to do. This post is aimed at those who have mastered the basics and are looking to up their game in this technically challenging style of fishing. Trico Spinner Fall Basics The fish love this spinner fall as the flies are dead and float in the surface film for a long time. It is like shooting fish in a barrel for trout to eat them. Sometimes the water can be covered with spinners and the fish will literally mow a strip of flies by swimming with their mouth open! I have only seen that a couple of times.  The male Tricos hatch at night and the females start hatching in the morning. When the air temperature reaches around 65 °F the males and females mate in the air. In a good year, the mating balls can be 2-3 yards in diameter (sometimes bigger) and you can barely see through them. Other years the mating balls can be 2-3 feet in diameter and fairly sparse. This year I have barely seen a mating ball but the spinner fall still happens.  After mating, the males die first and fall unto the water. Depending on how thick the mating balls are, the spent males can be on the water from around a half hour to nearly an hour. Towards the end of the male fall, the spent females begin falling on the water after dropping their eggs into the water. Both males (black body and abdomen) and females (white body and black abdomen) can be on the water for a significant time.  Female and Male Tricos: Traditional with spent wings Parachute Tricos with hi-vis posts Sometimes the fish don’t have a significant preference for male or female flies. This year they are paying attention and once the females start dropping, they have been switching to females mostly or only. You will know when this happens as you will be getting regular takes on your male pattern and all of a sudden, the fish will not touch the fly. It’s very frustrating seeing dozens of rising fish ignoring your fly until you remember, “Oh, they have switched to females.” This is easily confirmed by grabbing a spinner off the water surface to see it is a female. Tie on a female Trico and you will be back in business. Tips for Presenting Your Trico Spinner Two Fly Rigs Are the Best: I can get away with #18 or #20 flies for most of the season. Tricos are around a #22-24 hook size. All of these are difficult to find on the water if you are casting more than 15-20 feet. I use a hi-vis parachute fly as my lead fly with a 15-18” dropper to the Trico. You will want lead flies with white, yellow, orange, and red posts. White and yellow show best in the shade while orange and red posts show best in the sun and when there are a lot of bubbles on the surface. Colored hi-vis posts are often needed as white posts are hard to spot if there are a lot of bubbles or foam where you are fishing. If you don’t want to carry that many flies, an orange post works reasonably well in the shade and is great in the sun. Tippet Size: It is entirely possible you will run into an upper-teens and even 20’s fish when fishing the Trico spinner fall. For that reason, I start with 4X tippet to the lead fly and use 5X for the Trico dropper. If I know I have the right sized Trico and I get consistent refusals, I drop to a 6X dropper to the Trico. If there is any wind at all, even a 5X dropper will be difficult to place accurately and it will nearly be impossible to accurately deliver the fly on a 6X dropper. There have been occasions where I have had to drop to 7X to get takes. I always start with a 5X dropper and keep going down in tippet size until I get takes. Due to the small dropper tippet sizes, it pays to occasionally check the dropper tippet for nicks or wear spots. If you find any, replace the whole dropper tippet. Remember, tippets only break on the biggest fish you have seen that day (and when it is your last fly stuck in a tree)! Large Gape Fly Hooks are Best If you tie your own flies using large gape hooks such as, Daiichi 1110 Wide Gape Dry Fly Hook, improves your chances of hooking more fish with your favorite Trico pattern. I have also been experimenting with Klinkhammer style hooks (317 BL Nymph Emerger Hook-medium wire; 1160 Klinkhamer Hook-fine wire). The results have been mixed where it seemed like I missed a lot of takes in one outing but I caught the 17-inch brown on a Klinkhammer hook. It’s probably worth trying them as these have an even larger gape. I also use #18 size hooks but tie a #20 size fly. This gives me a little more hook strength and gape. One thing to be aware of is that while thin wire hooks do improve fly flotation, they can bend enough to lose a bigger fish if you have to turn the fish to keep it out of snags and other debris. Be sure to check your hook if a fish gets off.  See Product Strategy Counts: The following tips are strategic in nature. I have learned these after fishing the Trico spinner fall for over 20 years. Hopefully you will find these useful in increasing both the size and number of fish you catch while fishing this technically challenging style of fly fishing. Shady Trumps Sunny: The fish are feeding at the surface and often will hold just a few inches below the surface. They are easy pickings for various birds of prey. When you see lots of heads rising in a sunny stretch, most of the time you have 1-3 casts before a large portion of fish stop rising; I refer to that as going down for short. Surprisingly, most often they will not start rising again. If the spinner fall is particularly thick and it is in the first 1-2 weeks of the spinner fall, they may start rising again. As the Trico season progresses, the fish will become increasingly wary and even one cast may be enough to put down an entire pod of rising fish rising in the full sun.  It is preferable to find a stretch of water that remains in the shade during the spinner fall. The fish will usually be much more aggressive and less skittish in comparison to a run in full sunshine. Hopefully you know the river you will be fishing and you can pick areas that remain in the shade. This gets more challenging as the nighttime lows start getting lower which means the air temperature reaches 65 °F later in the morning and it becomes increasingly difficult to find water that will be in the shade. You can work ahead by paying attention to which areas of the river are shady in the late morning as you fish towards the end of June. Cloudy days help both sunny and shady parts of the river when you get the right type of clouds. Recently, I realized there are dark clouds and light clouds. When you have low and light grey clouds, the entire river lights up like there is a search light shining on it. When you run into this situation, even shady runs may be difficult. In contrast, if you get those dark clouds, it is easier in normally sunny runs and shady runs improve even more. Current Lines Become Very Important: During the spinner fall, current lines are the conveyer belts delivering an endless smorgasbord of these diminutive spinners. Hence, the biggest fish gets the prime spot in the current line. It pays to exercise a little self-control and watch the current line to determine if you can tell where the largest fish is feeding. Sometimes all the fish are roughly the same size and this is not important. However, when you spot a large fish, it is best to focus on casting to that fish first. Otherwise, you may spook the bigger fish as you pull a smaller fish past that fish. Every so often, you make the right cast and a little fish gets your fly before it gets to your target fish. That’s the end of the bigger fish until tomorrow! I hate when that happens. Competition Is Your Ally: Once the spinner fall gets to its peak, it is not unusual to see 20 or more heads rising. As you fish the spinner fall more, you will begin to recognize when fish are competing. Telltale signs are side-by-side fish slashing at flies. When you see this, all you have to do is get your flies close to either fish and hold on, the takes can be ferocious. Two weeks ago, I got broken off by an upper teens fish after the hookset. By the time I tied on a new dropper and Trico, the fish were back at it and two casts later I hooked and landed a 17-inch beauty which was smaller than the one that broke me off! Even after that ruckus I managed to get two more 13-inchers and one 14-inch fish out of an area no bigger than a large kitchen sink. It doesn’t get much better than that! The 17-inch fish had the fly nearly down to his gullet. It took quite a while to get the fly out. The fish was exhausted and spent 4-5 minutes right next to me reviving so I was able to use my waterproof camera to get a nice picture of him reviving! 17” Brown on a #20 Male Trico fly Underwater Picture of the 17” Brown Reviving! Overhead Cover and a Current Line Are the Best: That 17-inch brown above was competing with other fish under an overhanging tree and in a current line. The competition and faster current forced the fish to take the fly ferociously. The fish lose their composure and go wild in these situations. When I set the hook on this fish, he ran about 2 yards and launched out of the water like a torpedo, ran another 4-5 feet and leapt a second time. My heart was in my throat for fear the hook would come out. As I said above, the fly was nearly in the fish’s gullet, the only way he was coming off would be by breaking me off. It pays to keep looking for new runs where the fish are feeding on Tricos instead of going back to the same spot. Quiet Sippers Are Almost Always bigger: It is easy to focus on a pod of fish thrashing the surface as they compete for a Trico. However, it always pays to watch the water as you work up the river. Anytime you see a lone fish that just barely dimples the surface as it takes a Trico it is nearly assured it is a nice fish. Usually, you get no more than 2-3 casts at fish like this before they go down. It is important to figure out the best place to stand to get a drag-free drift. If you get the right drift, the hardest part is waiting for the fish to finish the take. I try to remind myself to hold back on the hookset until the fish turns. A gentle wrist snap is all that is needed after the fish has turned.  Different Hooksets for Slow and Fast Water: I was able to set the hook immediately on the 17-inch fish that was under a tree and in a fast current line because the take was fast and ferocious. If you are fishing a riffle with decent current, you can set the hook as soon as you see the take as the fish move fast and usually hammer the fly. You have to remind yourself to slow down the hookset when you move to slower water as the fish often casually sip the fly as the water is slow and there is no competition. If you use a fast water hookset you will “pull defeat out of the jaws of victory.” Trust me, I have done that more than I care to admit. Hopefully these points will help you get more and bigger fish the next time you fish the Trico spinner fall.