Step 1
Slide the gold tungsten bead onto the hook and secure the hook firmly in the vise.
Make 10 to 12 wraps of .020 lead wire around the hook shank. Break off the excess and push the lead wraps snugly forward into the back of the bead.
Start the UTC 70 thread directly behind the lead wraps.
Step 2
Advance the tying thread rearward into the bend of the hook, stopping just shy of halfway down the bend.
Build a small thread bump with about five turns of thread. Tie in two opposing goose biots to form a tail approximately 1/4" long.
Advance the thread forward again so it rests directly behind the lead wraps.
Step 3
Cut two equal lengths of wire, one amber and one black, each approximately 7.5" long.
Position both wires along the near side of the hook shank, directly behind the lead wraps. Place the amber wire beneath the black wire to improve contrast.
Secure both strands with tight, even thread wraps, binding them down along the shank to the base of the tail.
Advance the UTC 70 thread back to just behind the lead wraps, then tie it off. Start the UTC 140 thread and build a smooth, tapered body, ending approximately one-third of a hook eye length behind the eye.
Step 4
Wrap both wire strands forward at the same time to form the abdomen.
Maintain firm, even tension to keep the wires aligned and create clean, balanced segmentation. Minor adjustments may be needed as you advance.
End the wire wraps approximately one-third of a hook eye length behind the eye. Secure the wire ends and finish with a five- or six-turn whip finish.
Step 5
Restart the UTC 70 thread at the point where the abdomen was tied off.
Advance the thread rearward until it stops just in front of the hook point.
Tie in a strip of Thin Skin approximately 3/16" wide, securing it tightly and keeping it centered on top of the hook shank. Continue wrapping forward to bind down and clean up the Thin Skin tie-in.
Step 6
Tie in a 2" length of UNI Mylar with the peacock-colored side facing up. Keep it centered on top of the hook shank and aligned within the Thin Skin.
This orientation allows the orange side to show when the material is folded forward over the thorax.
Step 7
Create a 3" to 4" dubbing noodle and dub from the rear edge of the Thin Skin forward to the bead. Then work the dubbing back approximately halfway to form a thick, rounded thorax over the front third of the hook.
Focus on building a robust profile while leaving a small section lightly dubbed directly behind the bead.
With the thread positioned at the midpoint of the thorax, make two or three turns of bare thread to secure the dubbing.
Step 8
Remove a single strand of leg material from the hank. Fold it in half and cut the loop to create two equal lengths.
Attach one leg to the near side of the hook shank at the midpoint of the thorax, securing it with even wraps. Repeat the process on the far side.
Once both legs are secure, create a 2" to 3" dubbing noodle and apply dubbing between the legs, advancing it forward to just behind the bead.
Step 9
This step differs from the traditional John Barr method, as the wing case is not folded over yet.
Select a speckled brown hen saddle feather. Prepare it by removing the fluffy lower fibers until the remaining barbs are approximately the length of the hook shank.
Hold the feather by the tip, stroke the barbs rearward, and clip a small section of the stem to create a clean tie-in anchor. Secure the feather directly behind the bead.
Step 10
Grip the stem of the hen saddle feather with hackle pliers or your fingertips.
Lift and preen the barbs rearward, then wrap the feather forward around the hook shank, making two full turns.
Step 11
Divide the hen saddle hackle barbs evenly along the centerline of the hook shank.
Pull the UNI Mylar forward over the thorax and secure it with a few firm wraps. Next, fold the Thin Skin forward, keeping it centered on top of the hook shank, and secure it with five to six additional wraps.
Finish the fly with a five- or six-turn whip finish.
Step 12
Trim the remaining Thin Skin and UNI Mylar close to the thread. A razor blade can be used for a cleaner, more precise cut.
Apply your preferred UV resin or epoxy to the wing case. Work a small amount into the final turns of the wire abdomen to improve durability.
Your Jumbo John in Amber and Black is now ready to fish. The finished fly has weight, contrast, movement, and durability, exactly what you want in a hard-working steelhead nymph.
