Fly Tying

When it comes to nymphs, weight matters. A well-placed bead gets your fly into the strike zone fast—where the fish are eating—not fluttering above like it missed the memo. The thing is, there’s a quiet genius to fly tying beads. They’re not flashy (okay, sometimes they’re very flashy), but they do a job no amount of thread or dubbing can. And while stuffing a bead on a hook might seem straightforward, there are enough creative ways to do it that you could call it an art form. Or at least a habit worth thinking about. CREATIVE WAYS TO USE BEADS Here are a few ways to weight your nymphs with beads, some common, some clever, all tested on streams and stillwaters where the fish are a little smart and the water’s never quite the right depth. 1. Double Beading (Because Why Not?) This is the fly tying equivalent of bringing two sandwiches to a picnic. Thread one bead on the hook, and then another, right behind it. The effect? It is commonly used in the (aptly named) Double Bead Stonefly Nymph. But, for 'other' nymphs, think: Twice the weight, with a slightly chunky silhouette that looks suspiciously like a caddis pupa after one too many snacks. Use two brass beads if you want bulk without too much sink, or double up on tungsten if you want it to dive like a stone (go barbless for this, because that thing packs a punch if it connects with you, or a fellow angler, you can thank us later). It also creates a little segmentation in the body—a subtle detail, but sometimes that’s what sells it. 2. Use Slotted Tungsten on Jig Hooks (Because Everyone Else Is) Slotted beads were one of those innovations that made some old-school tyers scoff until they actually tried them. Slotting lets the bead ride better on a jig-style hook, which in turn means the fly rides hook-point up. That might sound like a gimmick, but on rocky bottoms and picky fish, it’s a game-changer. (Without being a 'game changer' pattern). You can find slotted beads in all the essential finishes—matte black, metallic gold, copper, and even fluorescent hot spots if you’re feeling bold. Match with a barbless competition hook, and you’ve got yourself a Euro-style weapon that looks innocent and fishes dirty. See Product See Product See Product 3. The Soft Touch: Glass Beads on Small Patterns Sometimes weight isn’t the answer. Sometimes you just want a hint of flash or a subtle glow to suggest a midge or emerger. That’s where glass beads come in—light, bright, and perfect for delicate patterns. Blood red for midges. UV crystal for chironomids. Clear for those “nothing’s working” days when subtlety might be all you’ve got left. You won’t win any depth records with these, but you might fool that one trout sulking in the shallows. 4. The Split Personality: Mixing Beads for Form and Function Who says you can only use one type of bead per fly? Try this: slide on a small tungsten bead for weight, and then a larger brass bead behind it for profile. Or vice versa. You end up with a fly that sinks well but still matches a caddis or stonefly silhouette. And it just plain looks cool in the box. This is also a great way to add a color contrast—say, a black tungsten up front and a nickel brass bead behind. Fish may not know art, but they know what looks like food. Euro nymphing is effective the world over on a variety of species. 5. Bead Behind the Thorax (The Sneaky Sink Trick) Here's a little misdirection I learned from a guide: tie your fly so the bead sits behind the thorax, not at the head. It gives a different profile, keeps the hook eye free for better rigging, and adds a curious kind of wobble to the drift. It’s not traditional and it shouldn't be the 'opener' from out of your box, but when things go quiet it might just work. Take it from the guides: "When you’re tying for 'fish,' not fly tying contests, 'unusual' can be a virtue." 6. Oversized Beads on Short Shank Hooks When in doubt, go big. An oversized tungsten bead on a short-shank or curved hook gets down fast, anchors your rig, and creates a squat little bug that just screams “nutrient-rich.” It's kind of like tying a smallish Clouser minnow with tungsten dumbbell eyes. (Blog on that dropping soon) This is especially handy on small rivers or tailwaters with fast drop-offs, where the window of opportunity is measured in inches. You want your fly in the zone immediately, not 10 feet later. At the end of the day, beads are just another way to solve a problem. The problem being: how do I get my fly where the fish are, and keep it there long enough for them to care? Whether you’re loading up with slotted tungsten for Euro nymphing or tying dainty emergers with glass, the bead’s doing more than adding weight, it’s doing the talking underwater. And if the trout don’t like what it says, well, that’s what fly boxes are for. Tie another. Try something new. Get creative with it. That’s half the fun anyway.

A look at some shortcuts, efficiencies and fly tying hacks that actually work. There comes a time in every fly tyer’s life—usually when you’re tying the eighth Pheasant Tail of the night and the dog’s already gone to bed—when you start looking for a better way.  Not a reinvention of the wheel, just a small trick that makes tying a little easier without making the flies, well, worse. That’s what we’re talking about here: fly tying hacks that actually work. Fly tying is one of those hobbies (lifestyles!) that punishes carelessness and rewards patience. But let’s be honest—most of us aren’t tying museum pieces. We’re tying flies to get eaten (and lost in trees and fouled on rocks and weeds). And for that kind of work, a few hacks can go a long way. Here are some of the best fly tying hacks I’ve picked up over the years—tested, field-approved, and guaranteed to keep your sanity mostly intact. Fly Tying Hacks To Up Your Game 1. Batch Your Prep *Oldest hack in the book but it took me a surprisingly long time to actually do it. If you’re tying a dozen of the same fly, don’t reinvent the wheel each time. Pre-cut your tails, strip your hackle, measure your wings. Get everything set out like a short-order cook at the grill. This isn’t just about efficiency—it’s about rhythm. You’ll tie faster, cleaner, and probably waste less marabou in the process. 2. One Bobbin, One Thread—Unless You Absolutely Can’t Most of the time, the fish couldn’t care less whether your Olive Hares Ear has black thread or olive thread. So unless you're going for a visible thread head or something extra specific, stick with one thread color (like black or tan) for an entire session. Why You Need More Than One Bobbin Read more Fly Tying Bobbins 101: Everything You Need to Know Read more 3. Clean Up Bulky Heads with Mono and Flame If you’re spinning deer hair or building bulky streamer heads, keep a short loop of 6X mono on the bench. Once you’ve trimmed everything down, loop it over the head and give it a quick pass with a lighter. It cleans up flyaways better than scissors and shapes the head without mangling proportions. 4. Half-Hitch Like You Mean It Here’s a (semi) controversial one: you don’t always need a whip finish. If you know how to make a solid thread base and follow it with a good few half-hitches under the eye (and a dab of head cement), it’ll hold just fine. This fly tying hack is especially useful for quick sessions or when you’re tying in bulk and just want to keep the wheels turning. 5. Pre-Weight Your Hooks If you’re tying a run of nymphs or streamers that all require the same wire wraps, do it assembly-line style. Wrap a batch of hooks with lead or lead-free wire in advance and stash them in a cup. You’ll fly through the rest of your tying and wonder why you didn’t do it sooner. 6. Master One Way of Doing a Thing, and Stick With It There are at least five ways to tie in a biot body, and a dozen ways to post a parachute. Learn the one that works best for you and don’t worry about mastering them all. One of the simplest but most effective fly tying hacks is eliminating decisions. Tying becomes less about figuring it out and more about flowing through it. 7. Keep a “Misfit Bag” for Flies That Deserve a Second Chance Every tyer has them—flies that looked good in your head but didn’t quite pan out in real life. Instead of trashing them, toss them in a labeled freezer bag. On a quiet night, you can salvage the materials or turn a “bad” fly into something useful with a tweak here or there. Bonus: some of those weird ones turn out to be the patterns fish love most. Why Fly Tying Hacks Matter These aren’t gimmicks. These are the kinds of fly tying hacks that help you spend less time fussing and more time fishing. They’re about getting to the good part faster—without sacrificing quality where it counts. Because at the end of the day, it’s not the prettiest fly that gets eaten—it’s the one that lands right, drifts true, and shows up when it needs to. If a couple of well-earned hacks help you get there faster? All the better. Collective Consciousness In Fly Tying Read more A Gamechanger for Streamer Fishing: Letting Trout Have it 'Their Way!' Read more

Selecting the right hook size is a crucial step in fly tying and fly fishing success. The size and shape of a hook will determine how well your fly imitates natural prey, how well it floats or swims and, ultimately how effectively you hook and land fish.  This fly hook size guide will help you navigate the numbering system, choose the best hooks for different fly patterns, and avoid common mistakes so you can tie better flies and catch more fish. Understanding Hook Sizes Before actually selecting a hook, you'll need to understand how hook size works. The sizing numbering system can be confusing at first, but once you grasp the basics, you’ll be able to match hook sizes to different fly patterns confidently. Fly Hook Sizing Hook size follow a reverse numbering system—the larger the number, the smaller the hook (e.g., a size 20 hook is much smaller than a size 2). Hooks larger than size 1 are labeled with an “aught” (/) system, such as 1/0, 2/0, or 3/0, where bigger numbers indicate bigger hooks. Hook thickness varies, with standard, heavy-wire, and light-wire hooks designed for different fly types.  Heavy-wire hooks are ideal for strong fish and sinking patterns, while light-wire hooks keep dry flies buoyant. Choosing the right hook size ensures that your fly maintains proper proportions and an effective presentation in the water. Fly Hook Size Guide – Choosing the Right Hook for Each Fly Type Selecting the proper hook size is essential for tying flies that closely match natural insects and baitfish. Using the right size helps improve your presentation, ensures effective hook sets, and ultimately increases your success on the water. Here’s a breakdown of the ideal hook sizes and wire gauges for different fly types and fishing situations. Dry Fly Hook Sizes Small mayfly and midges: Size 18–24Medium mayfly, caddisfly, and terrestrials: Size 12–16 Large mayfly and attractor patterns: Size 8–10 Lighter wire hooks help maintain buoyancy. Popular dry fly hooks: Look for Tiemco, Daiichi, and Mustad dry fly hooks, which are designed with fine wire and standard-length shanks. See Product See Product See Product Nymph and Wet Fly Hook Sizes Nymphs and wet flies imitate underwater insects, making hook weight and shape crucial for proper drift and sink rates. Small nymphs and emergers: Size 16–22Standard mayfly, stonefly, and caddis nymphs: Size 10–14 Larger nymphs and wet flies: Size 6–8Heavier hooks (2X or 3X heavy wire) help nymphs sink faster, while lighter hooks keep emergers in the surface film. Different nymph styles require curved, straight, or long-shank hooks to best match the natural insects they imitate. Streamer and Large Fly Hook Sizes Streamers and large baitfish imitations require strong, durable hooks that can handle aggressive strikes. Standard trout and bass streamers: Size 4–10 Large articulated streamers: Size 2–6 Saltwater and predator flies: 1/0 to 6/0. Hook strength considerations: Predator flies demand 2X or 3X strong wire hooks to prevent opening or even breaking under pressure. See Product See Product Matching Hook Size to Target Species Different fish species have unique feeding behaviors and mouth structures, influencing the best hook sizes for each. Trout – Size 10–24 for dry flies, nymphs, and emergers; Size 4–8 for streamers. Bass – Size 2–10 for poppers, streamers, and crawfish patterns. Pike & Musky – 3/0 and larger for oversized streamers and articulated flies. Salmon & Steelhead – Size 2–8 for nymphs and wet flies; 1/0 and up for large streamers. Saltwater Species – Size 1–6 for bonefish and redfish, 2/0 and larger for tarpon, GTs, and stripers. Some fish, like rainbow trout and panfish, prefer smaller flies, while aggressive predators like bass and pike are drawn to larger baitfish imitations.Choosing the right hook size is all about matching your gear to the conditions and the fish you're targeting. Always consider the reason behind your selection—whether it’s imitating a natural insect, controlling sink rate, or achieving the perfect dry fly drift. For more useful tips, check out our fly tying resources page.

Beads not only add weight to help your fly sink but also enhance its appearance and realism. Once you understand how different bead sizes affect fly performance, you can improve your fly fishing success. Whether you're tying delicate midges or heavy nymphs for fast-moving water, our fly tying bead size chart will help you choose the perfect bead for each fly pattern. How Bead Size Affects Fly Performance The relationship between bead size and hook size: Larger beads require hooks with bigger gapes to maintain a proper keeling and balance, while smaller beads work best on fine-wire hooks for delicate patterns. How different bead sizes influence a fly’s sink rate: Heavier tungsten beads sink faster, making them ideal for deep nymphing, while brass and glass beads provide a slower descent for fishing in shallower waters. When to use smaller vs. larger beads based on fishing conditions: Small beads are effective in clear, slow-moving water where fish are more cautious. Larger beads excel in fast currents where a quick sink rate is necessary to reach feeding zones. Matching Beads to Fly Patterns Midges & small nymphs: Use 1.5mm-2.4mm beads for size 18-22 hooks. Standard nymphs (Pheasant Tail, Hare’s Ear, etc.): 2.4mm-3.5mm beads for size 12-16 hooks. Streamers & large nymphs: 3.5mm-5mm beads for size 6-10 hooks. Standard Fly Tying Bead Size Chart Bead Size (mm) Common Hook Sizes Fly Patterns Material Options 1.5mm (1/16") 18-22 Midges, Small Nymphs Brass, Glass 2.0mm (5/64") 16-20 Small Nymphs, Micro Streamers Brass, Glass 2.4mm (3/32") 14-18 Standard Nymphs (Pheasant Tail, Hare’s Ear) Brass, Tungsten 2.8mm (7/64") 12-16 Larger Nymphs, Small Streamers Brass, Tungsten 3.2mm (1/8") 10-14 Medium Nymphs, Large Pupa, Jig Flies Brass, Tungsten 3.8mm (5/32") 6-12 Large Nymphs, Small Streamers Brass, Tungsten 4.6mm (3/16") 4-8 Streamers, Large Nymphs Tungsten 5.5mm (7/32") 2-6 Large Streamers, Heavy Nymphs Tungsten See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product Tungsten Bead Size Chart Tungsten Bead Size (mm) Common Hook Sizes Fly Patterns Best Use Case 2.0mm 16-20 Small Nymphs, Midges Slow to moderate water, shallow depths 2.4mm 14-18 Standard Nymphs General use, moderate depths 2.8mm 12-16 Heavier Nymphs, Perdigons Faster currents, deeper pools 3.2mm 10-14 Jig Nymphs, Large Nymphs Heavy flows, deep water 3.8mm 6-12 Small Streamers, Large Nymphs Deep holes, fast-moving rivers 4.6mm+ 4-8 Large Streamers, Euro Nymphs Heavyweight flies for deep runs Why Choose Tungsten? Denser than brass – Sinks flies faster with less bulk. Best for euro nymphing and deep-water presentations. Maintains a compact profile while increasing sink rate.  Whether you’re dialing in a winter midge or rigging up a heavy dropper for spring runoff, getting the bead size right can mean the difference between a quick take and a quiet day. Use this guide as your go-to reference, and don’t be afraid to experiment—because sometimes the perfect bead isn't just about the numbers, but how the fly moves in the water. Need to stock up or try something new? Explore our full range of beads and start tying with precision.

Keeping your fly tying materials organized isn’t just about tidiness—it’s about efficiency and making the most of your tying sessions. A cluttered workspace can slow you down, damage delicate materials, and make it harder to find what you need when inspiration strikes. No matter if you’re working with a small bench or a dedicated tying station, smart storage solutions will help you streamline your setup, protect your materials, and maximize your available space. In this guide, we’ll explore fly tying storage ideas to keep everything in perfect order. Why Proper Fly Tying Storage Matters A well-organized fly tying station is more than just a tidy workspace—it’s the key to a smoother, more enjoyable tying experience. If you're a casual tyer or a seasoned angler crafting intricate patterns, having a proper storage system in place will save you time, preserve the quality of your materials, and enhance your overall efficiency. Without a structured setup, your fly tying bench can quickly become cluttered, making it difficult to find what you need when you need it. Benefits of an Organized Fly Tying Station Faster and more efficient fly tying sessions – When materials and tools are neatly stored, you spend less time searching and more time tying. Prevents materials from getting lost or damaged – Proper storage keeps delicate materials like feathers, fur, and dubbing safe from moisture, pests, and dust. Keeps your workspace clean and clutter-free – A well-structured station creates a more enjoyable and stress-free tying environment. Common Storage Mistakes to Avoid Even experienced fly tyers can fall into bad storage habits. Avoid these common mistakes to keep your materials in top condition: Storing materials in damp or poorly ventilated areas – Humidity and moisture can ruin delicate materials, leading to mold, mildew, or rusted hooks. Overcrowding drawers or bins – Jamming materials together can lead to tangled feathers, crushed hackles, and deformed synthetic fibers. Not labeling containers – Without clear labels, you’ll waste time digging through bins, searching for the right color of dubbing, thread, or tinsel. Choosing the Right Fly Tying Storage System The right storage system keeps materials protected, accessible, and easy to find for a more efficient and enjoyable tying experience. Here are some fly tying storage ideas. Why Fly Tying Material Storage Boxes Are A Must-Have A well-organized fly tying station starts with proper material storage boxes. These containers offer a simple yet effective way to keep your supplies sorted and in pristine condition. Clear plastic storage boxes for visibility – Transparent boxes let you see your materials at a glance, eliminating the hassle of searching through opaque containers. Stackable, compartmentalized plastic containers for small materials – Organizing hooks, yarn, foam, beads, tinsel, and thread in divided boxes prevents tangling and keeps everything neatly sorted. Best options for mobile and travel-friendly storage – Compact, latch-sealed boxes make it easy to pack your essential materials for fishing trips without worrying about spills or mix-ups. Drawer Organizers and Shelving Solutions If you have a dedicated fly tying space, drawer organizers and shelving solutions can keep your workstation tidy and maximize efficiency. Drawer dividers for material separation – Sorting different materials into individual sections prevents clutter and makes it easier to find what you need. Wall-mounted shelves for easy access – Keeping commonly used materials like feathers, fur, and thread within arm’s reach speeds up your tying process. Magnetic storage strips for small tools – Mounting a magnetic strip near your tying area provides a convenient way to store scissors, bobbins, and pliers without cluttering your workspace. Portable Storage Options for On-the-Go Fly Tyers For fly tyers who travel or tie at different locations, portable storage options ensure you always have the essentials on hand. Roll-up tool cases for travel – A compact roll-up case keeps your essential tools, such as scissors, bobbins, and hackle pliers, secure and organized. Compact tackle boxes for carrying materials – Small tackle boxes with adjustable compartments make it easy to store and transport dubbing, hooks, and beads. If you are on the go, labeled zip-lock bags or pouches for materials like feathers and fur help you stay organized while keeping your pack lightweight. Compact, waterproof fly boxes also preserve your flies during multiple trips. Investing in the right storage system will protect your materials and streamline your tying process, whether you're at home or on the go. See Product See Product See Product How To Store Fly Tying Materials Properly Proper storage is essential for maintaining the quality and longevity of your fly tying materials. An organized system for storing delicate feathers, sharp hooks, or spools of thread will help keep your workspace efficient and your materials in top condition. You can't go wrong with these fly tying storage ideas. Storing Feathers, Fur, and Dubbing Natural materials like feathers, fur, and dubbing require extra care to prevent damage from moisture, pests, and dust. Here’s how to keep them in pristine condition: Use breathable containers – Storing feathers and fur in breathable plastic or mesh bags prevents moisture buildup, which can lead to mold and deterioration. Protect against pests – Moths and other insects can damage natural materials. To deter pests and absorb excess moisture, keep cedar blocks, lavender sachets, or silica gel packets in your storage bins. Long-term preservation tips – To prevent humidity damage, consider vacuum-sealing delicate materials or keeping them in climate-controlled areas for long-term storage. Organizing Hooks, Beads, and Small Components Use small containers for organization – Pill containers, plastic bead organizers, or compartmentalized fly tying material storage boxes help keep hooks, beads, and coneheads sorted and easy to find. Check out the Foamanizer fly tying desk organizer. Prevent hook rust – Store hooks in airtight containers with anti-rust strips or silica gel packs to absorb moisture and prevent corrosion. Sort hooks by size and type – Keeping a size-sorted system (e.g., separate compartments for dry fly hooks, streamer hooks, and saltwater hooks) will save you time and frustration when tying. Keeping Thread, Tinsel, and Wire Tidy Use spool racks or pegboards – A dedicated thread rack or pegboard setup allows you to organize spools by color and size while keeping them easily accessible. Avoid tangled tinsel and wire – Store tinsel and wire spools in small plastic tubes or stackable organizers to keep them from becoming a tangled mess. How To Make The Most Of Your Rotary Vise Read more A Gamechanger for Streamer Fishing: Letting Trout Have it 'Their Way!' Read more DIY Storage Hacks for Fly Tyers You don’t have to spend a fortune on specialized fly tying storage—many common household items can be repurposed to keep your materials organized. Get innovative with your fly tying storage ideas: Spice racks for thread spools – Wall-mounted spice racks or tiered spice organizers are perfect for keeping spools of thread, wire, and tinsel neatly arranged and easily accessible. Tackle boxes for beads and hooks – Small, compartmentalized tackle boxes are excellent storage for beads, coneheads, and hooks, preventing them from getting lost or tangled. Pegboards for tools and materials – Hanging a pegboard near your tying station allows you to store scissors, bobbins, hackle pliers, and other tools within arm’s reach while keeping your workspace tidy. Maximizing Small Workspaces Not everyone has the luxury of a dedicated fly tying room, but with a little creativity, even the smallest spaces can be optimized for efficiency. Foldable desks and compact storage solutions – A fold-down wall desk or a compact rolling cart can serve as a functional tying station without taking up permanent space. Under-desk storage bins – Store extra materials in clear, stackable bins under your work surface. This way, you can easily access what you need while minimizing clutter. Portable fly tying stations – If space is tight, consider using a toolbox or rolling case to store your essential tools and materials. This allows you to set up and break down your tying station as needed, making it perfect for apartments or shared spaces. Have any genius space-saving or storage hacks and ideas? Tell us in the comments.

By Joe Dellaria (with input from Joel Dellaria) It all started with a simple question. A friend of mine had given me three bucktails at various stages of processing. One was fresh off the deer, the second was dried and deboned, while the third was a rock-hard bone-in bucktail that was two or three years old. The last one was the biggest and bushiest of them all. I soaked the bone-in tail for three weeks hoping to soften it enough to get the bone out. It sort of worked; I got one fairly large piece and four or five smaller pieces. I processed all three tails together and ended up with some nicely tanned bucktails and a bunch of smaller pieces. I nearly threw out the smaller pieces until it hit me, I could use them to test dyeing them with mustard. Sounds weird, but I have ruined too many dress shirts and pants by getting mustard on them. Even if you immediately wipe off the mustard and soak the item, the mustard stain will never come out completely. So, why not use mustard to dye these bucktail pieces? It was all downhill from there. I did a little research on dyeing bucktails and fly-tying feathers and garnered some common features the various processes shared. This included: Thoroughly cleaning the material to be dyed Pre-wetting the fur or feathers immediately prior to dyeing. Heating in the dye solution for some time (usually for an hour or so). Adding a weak acid to set the dye (vinegar works and is easy to get and handle). Stirring to ensure good and even exposure. We had the dregs left in a mustard bottle so I added hot water and shook until all of the dregs came off and poured the suspension into an 8-cup Pyrex measuring bowl. I should point out one precautionary note: it is best to do this when your wife is not home. My wife nearly hit the ceiling when she found out I was heating a bucktail in the microwave in her formerly favorite bowl. (She refuses to use the bowl anymore. That’s o.k., I have plenty of other things to dye.) I added 2 cups of white vinegar and my pre-wetted bucktail piece. For the next hour I heated the mixture to 140 °F and reheated it when the solution dropped below 135 °F. Then I let the whole thing sit overnight. The next morning, I drained off the solution and rinsed the tail. To my great satisfaction, the bucktail was discernibly yellow. My mustard theory was confirmed! It was not as vibrant as I had hoped for, but good enough to tie a streamer. After drying the piece thoroughly, it was off to the vice. As soon as I snipped off the first clump of hair there was a perceptible odor of mustard. I figured I like mustard on hot dogs and brats, maybe trout would like it on a streamer so I continued tying the streamer. I deliberately tied a very simple one as there was no sense in investing a lot of time if the streamer didn’t work. Being a scientist, I realized I had to make a “control” streamer as well where I used store-bought yellow bucktail to tie an identical streamer to get a valid result. Did it Work? Now it was time for the best part – to see whether it would catch fish. I rigged up two rods so I could fish alternately with each fly. At every new spot I rotated which fly I used first and then fished with the other. That allowed me to get a fair comparison between the effectiveness of both streamers. I had no idea what to expect and was amazed when the mustard streamer out-fished the regular bucktail four to one! I thought to myself, 'this has to be a fluke!' Then it occurred to me, 'Was the difference from the color or the mustard odor?' In the name of good science, I had to do more “studies.” Now I could tell my wife I wasn’t trout fishing but doing “research!” I promptly added eight 6-hour blocks called “research” to the family calendar. My wife bought me a brand-new camouflage lab coat to make it official. For each “research” outing I always tied a fresh mustard streamer and a fresh store-bought yellow bucktail streamer. After four more outings there was no doubt the mustard streamer out-fished the regular streamer. The average came out to 2.9:1 fish in favor of the mustard streamer. Clearly an unexpected outcome! Then my mind started grinding. (Grinding is the correct term; there’s a lot of friction between my ears just ask my wife!) How many other condiment odors might work? The short version of the next few months of “research” showed that ketchup, horseradish, and relish all showed an increased catch rate when compared to the control fly of the same size using store-bought bucktail materials. The ratios weren’t quite as high but they were significant and ran between 1.5-2.1:1 after 5 outings. At this point, it seemed pretty reasonable to say that it was the odor rather than the color. To test this, I simply soaked the streamers in a condiment for 12 hours, gently rinsed off the excess condiment, and dried the fly before fishing it against the “control streamer.” Again, the condiment streamers caught more fish! The next step was obvious. If one condiment was good, two could be better, and “The Works” streamer might be lights out. You know what I mean if you have ever had a Chicago-style hot dog at Portillo’s in the Chicago area. It has so many condiments on it that you can barely get your mouth around it to take a bite! So, on with the “research.” (My wife started to wonder if my “research” would ever finish at this point.) Eventually, I found that simply dabbing on a condiment every so often while fishing was sufficient. That was great, it’s time-consuming to do all the soaking, rinsing, drying, etc. I started carrying those disposable rip open condiment packets in my fly vest. (You definitely want to use a heavy-duty freezer Ziplock bag to store any open packages.) For onions and sauerkraut, I made my own bags by re-purposing those small zip lock bags we often receive many of our fly-tying material in. “The works” streamer was a disappointment. It did not significantly improve my catch rate but it sure made my sandwich at lunch a lot more enjoyable. Now I have a special side-pouch to carry all of my condiments outside of my waders and hanging below my vest. (When those pouches leak, it can get pretty messy.) Fortunately, we have 16 grandkids and they all like going out for hot dogs or burgers. They saw the twinkle in my eye for my “research” project and wanted to get in on the fun. Every time we stopped to grab a burger or hot dog, they saved me their leftover condiments so we could try out new flavors and color combinations. See Product See Product If my “research” is any indication, I think using condiments can help anyone catch more trout. I am still searching for the optimum combination and don’t see my “research” slowing anytime soon. I relish the thought of finding the perfect mix of condiments causing trout to ketchup to my streamers and other flies! (Preliminary results indicate condiments also improve catch rates with nymphs!)I hope this helps you get started in this unexpectedly effective way to fish streamers. By the way, Happy April Fool’s Day! Part 1. Upping Your Odds for Winter Fly Fishing Success Read more Part 2. Upping Your Odds for Winter Fly Fishing Success Read more Part 3. Upping Your Odds for Winter Fly Fishing Success: Winter Flies Read more P.S. Mustard really did work for dyeing the bucktail piece!

Some things in fly tying just belong together—like bucktail and a classic Clouser Minnow. Woolly Buggers would not be the same without Marabou.  When it comes to the salt and tying for surface action, nothing beats foam and flash. They're best mates. Bass love them too. It's beautifully simple: One keeps your fly afloat, the other makes sure fish see it. It’s a combination that’s deadly for poppers, flippers, NYAPs, and crease flies. Whether you're chasing bass in the shallows, striped bass in the surf, or trevally on the reef, these flies bring out the kind of aggressive strikes that makes surface fly fishing what it is. Wild!  But to get them right, you need to know how to work with foam and flash effectively. Read on for some tips: Foam for Buoyancy, Flash for Attraction The beauty of foam is that it floats like a cork and takes a beating. It makes poppers pop, sliders glide, and crease flies ride just right on the surface. But foam alone isn’t enough—it needs something to bring the fly to life. That’s where flash comes in. A little shimmer suggests movement, signals distress, and grabs attention from fish that might otherwise pass up a meal. If you’re tying poppers, flippers, NYAPs, or crease flies, getting the balance between foam and flash right is the difference between a fly that moves like a stunned baitfish and one that just looks like a chunk of foam. How to Make Foam and Flash Work for You Poppers and flippers work because they get noticed—whether that’s from a loud, slapping pop or a soft, fleeing ripple. You don’t want them sinking, and you don’t want them too flashy—you just want enough to imitate a struggling baitfish. • Foam Choice: Rainy’s Foam Popper Bodies make popper construction easy. Pre-formed bodies mean you can focus on perfecting the placement and the amount of flash in the tail.• Flash Tip: Use Krystal Flash sparingly in the tail—just enough to suggest movement. Too much, and the fly looks unnatural.• Tying Tip: Secure the foam body with super glue and thread wraps before painting or sealing it. This keeps it from twisting on the hook after a few violent strikes. NYAP (Not Your Average Popper) The NYAP was originally designed by fly tyer and legendary Indian Ocean guide, James Christmas to target giant trevally in the Seychelles. Its simple yet highly effective (and easy to cast) design proved deadly on aggressive saltwater predators. This fly is as basic as they come: A strong hook, a pre-shaped, aerodynamic foam body, a tail made from stiff natural fibres and then some flash. • Foam Choice: The pre-shaped NYAP body is best, but you need a strong hook like the Gamakatsu SL12S Big Game Hook to handle big fish.• Flash Tip: Depending on what species you're tying for, few strands of Flashabou, or krystal flash, or lateral scale in the tail add just enough shimmer to make the fly stand out.• Tying Tip: Use Nano Silk to secure the foam without adding bulk—this keeps the fly lightweight and easier to cast. Crease Flies Crease flies are a perfect mix of popper and baitfish imitation. They float high but create a subsurface disturbance, making them deadly for stripers, bluefish, and even largemouth bass. • Foam Choice: Use 2mm Foam Sheets, cut and folded over the hook shank to create a keel effect. A small cylinder inside the head goes a long way to shaping the fly and adding floatation. Step-by-step coming soon.• Flash Tip: Less is more. (As usual with fly tying...) Make a tail of Steve Farrar Blend or bucktail and a bit of Krystal Flash. • Tying Tip: Finish with stick-on eyes and a coat of flexible UV glue of your choice, such as Wapsi Flex Seal to add durability and realism. See Product See Product See Product Working with foam and flash isn’t hard, but like anything in fly tying, getting it just right takes some trial and error. The best way to learn? Tie a few, fish them, and see how they perform. You’ll quickly figure out what works, what doesn’t, and what needs tweaking. Of course foam has many applications across smaller, freshwater patterns too. More on that in a separate blog, soon. See Product See Product See Product

Choosing the right thread size is a critical aspect of fly tying. The right thread can significantly influence the quality and durability of the finished flies. Fly tying thread sizes impact the strength, bulk, and detail of the fly being created. Finer threads are often preferred for delicate patterns like midges, where minimal bulk is crucial for realism in presentation. Conversely, for larger streamers or saltwater flies, heavier threads provide the necessary strength to handle tough conditions and large fish. Once you've mastered thread selection, you'll elevate your fly tying skills and create more effective flies for catching fish. Understanding Thread Sizes Fly tying thread isn’t just a simple spool of fiber—it plays a crucial role in the durability, proportion, and overall appearance of your flies. Choosing the right thread size ensures you can secure materials effectively without adding unnecessary bulk or risking breakage. However, with different sizing systems and varying thread strengths, understanding how to select the best option for each fly pattern can be confusing. It’s important to consider the difference between the denier and aught measurement systems and how to balance strength and diameter for the best results. You might also consult a  thread comparison chart for extra help. Thread Sizing Systems – Denier vs. Aught When shopping for fly tying thread, you’ll often see two different sizing systems: denier and aught ("/0") ratings. While both measure thread size, they do so in different ways, which can be confusing. Understanding these systems will help you select the right thread for your fly patterns with confidence. Denier This system measures the weight of 9,000 meters of thread in grams. A higher denier number indicates a thicker, stronger thread, while a lower denier number means a finer, lighter thread. For example, a 70-denier thread is thinner than a 210-denier thread. Consider the following Denier ranges when choosing fly tying thread sizes for your projects: 70-100 Denier: Fine threads for small, delicate patterns 140-210 Denier: Medium threads for most trout flies 280-300 Denier: Thicker threads for larger flies and saltwater patterns 400+ Denier: Heavy-duty threads for big game flies and deer hair work See Product See Product See Product Aught ("X/0") Rating This older system is based on the diameter of the thread. It's a rough scale, with higher numbers indicating finer threads and smaller numbers indicating thicker threads. A 14/0 thread is much finer than a 6/0 thread. However, thread ratings aren’t standardized across brands, so a 6/0 thread from one manufacturer might be slightly different from another. Silk and Kevlar threads are often measured using this method. Here's a quick reference for common Aught sizes: 3/0 (000): Thick, suitable for large flies 6/0 (00000): Medium, versatile for many patterns 8/0 (0000000): Fine, ideal for small trout flies 10/0 (000000000): Very fine, used for delicate patterns While aught ratings are still common, denier is the more precise and reliable measurement since it provides an actual weight-based size. If you’re comparing threads across brands, checking the denier will give you a clearer idea of thickness and strength. However, many fly tyers still prefer the aught system because it’s familiar and widely used in traditional fly recipes. By understanding both systems, you can make better choices when selecting thread for specific fly patterns—whether you’re tying delicate dry flies or robust streamers. Strength vs. Diameter – What Matters Most? When you're selecting fly tying thread sizes, two key factors come into play: strength and diameter. A thicker, stronger thread might seem like the best choice, but the right balance depends on the type of fly you're tying and the materials you're working with. Thread Strength: Measured by denier or breaking strength, stronger threads allow for tighter wraps and better durability. This is important for flies that need to withstand aggressive strikes, such as streamers or saltwater patterns. However, excessive thread strength can crush delicate materials or create bulky wraps. Thread Diameter: A finer thread (lower denier or higher aught rating) lays flatter and is ideal for intricate flies, such as dry flies and nymphs, where excess bulk can affect buoyancy and realism. Thinner threads also allow for more wraps without excessive buildup, making it perfect for detailed patterns. Finding the Right Balance The best choice depends on the fly pattern and the materials you're using. For delicate dry flies, a fine thread like 14/0 or 70 denier is ideal to prevent bulk. For larger flies, such as streamers or bass bugs, a stronger thread like 210 denier ensures durability without breaking under pressure. In the end, choosing between strength and diameter depends on the specific needs of your fly pattern. If in doubt, consider the materials you're tying with and the size of the hook—these will guide you toward the best thread for the job. Analyze a fly tying thread size chart to choose the right thread for your flies. Practical Applications of Thread Sizes in Fly Tying Choosing the Right Thread Sizes for Different Fly Types Selecting the right fly tying thread size is essential for creating durable, well-proportioned flies suited to different angling conditions and target species. The thread you choose impacts not only how the fly looks but also how well it performs on the water. Different fly types require different thread sizes to accommodate materials, maintain proportions, and ensure durability. Best Fly Tying Thread Sizes for Dry Flies Dry flies require thin, lightweight thread to maintain a natural profile and buoyancy. A thicker thread can add unwanted bulk, making the fly appear unnatural or causing it to sink prematurely. Recommended sizes: 14/0 to 8/0 (or 30-70 denier) Why? A fine thread allows for precise, delicate wraps without overwhelming the fly body. Examples: Adams, Elk Hair Caddis, Parachute Mayfly A 14/0 or 16/0 thread is best for small dry flies (#18 and smaller), while 8/0 or 10/0 provides more strength for slightly larger patterns. Choosing a flat-laying thread can also help reduce bulk while ensuring a secure tie. Best Thread Sizes for Nymphs and Wet Flies Nymphs and wet flies are often tied with slightly stronger thread than dry flies because they require durability and sometimes added weight to sink effectively. Recommended sizes: 8/0 to 6/0 (or 70-140 denier) Why? A balance between strength and diameter is needed to secure materials like dubbing, wire, and hackle while keeping the fly profile slim. Examples: Pheasant Tail Nymph, Hare’s Ear Nymph, Soft Hackles For small nymphs (#18 and smaller), 8/0 (70 denier) is ideal. For medium to larger nymphs and wet flies, a 6/0 (140 denier) thread provides extra strength without excessive bulk. Best Thread Sizes for Streamers and Large Flies Streamers, bass bugs, and saltwater flies demand strong, heavy-duty thread to hold materials like bucktail, synthetics, and large feathers in place. Recommended sizes: 6/0 to 3/0 (140-210 denier and up) Why? These flies undergo aggressive strikes, so a thicker, more durable thread prevents breakage. Examples: Woolly Bugger, Clouser Minnow, Deceiver For medium-sized streamers, 6/0 (140 denier) is a solid choice. For larger predator flies and saltwater patterns, 3/0 (210 denier) or stronger is preferred to handle tough materials and hard-fighting fish. By matching the right fly tying thread size to your fly type, you’ll ensure stronger, more effective patterns that perform as intended on the water. Best Thread Sizes for Freshwater vs. Saltwater Flies The environment you’re fishing in plays a big role in selecting the right fly tying thread sizes. Freshwater and saltwater flies have different demands when it comes to durability, material choice, and overall thread strength. Freshwater Fly Thread Guide Freshwater flies, particularly dry flies, nymphs, and small streamers, require finer thread to maintain a natural appearance and avoid unnecessary bulk. Since most freshwater species, like trout and bass, aren’t as aggressive as saltwater fish, you can use lighter threads without worrying about breakage. Fly Type Recommended Thread Size Key Benefit Dry Flies & Small Nymphs 14/0 to 8/0 (30-70 denier) Keeps the fly slim and lightweight. Larger Nymphs & Wet Flies 8/0 to 6/0 (70-140 denier) Stronger but still maintains a good profile. Freshwater Streamers & Bass Flies 6/0 to 3/0 (140-210 denier) Handles bigger materials while keeping natural movement. Saltwater Fly Thread Guide Saltwater flies need to withstand harsh conditions, tough fish, and aggressive strikes. They’re often tied with thicker, high-strength thread to secure large materials like bucktail, synthetic fibers, and epoxy coatings. Fly Type Recommended Thread Size Key Benefit Bonefish & Smaller Saltwater Flies 6/0 to 3/0 (140-210 denier) A balance between strength and minimal bulk. Medium-Sized Baitfish Patterns 3/0 to 210 denier and up Holds up to fast, strong fish like striped bass and redfish. Large Predator & Offshore Flies 210 denier and up Heavy-duty thread for tarpon, GTs, and other hard-fighting species. Since saltwater flies often require extra durability, waxed threads and synthetic materials like gel-spun polyethylene (GSP) are popular choices. These materials offer high strength without excessive bulk. By selecting the right fly tying thread sizes for freshwater or saltwater patterns, you’ll create flies that not only look great but also hold up against the fish you’re targeting. Frequently Asked Questions About Thread Sizes Can I use the same thread size for all parts of a fly? While it's possible to use the same thread size throughout a fly, it's not always ideal. Different parts of the fly may require varying thread thicknesses for optimal construction and durability. Matching fly tying thread sizes to the specific fly pattern and materials used ensures better proportions and overall quality. How can I prevent thread breakage when tying flies? To prevent thread breakage when tying flies, use high-quality thread, wax it for strength, and maintain consistent tension. Avoid overtightening, especially near the hook eye. Use a bobbin with smooth thread delivery and handle delicate materials gently. Practice proper thread management techniques for durability. What materials are fly tying thread commonly made from? Fly tying thread is commonly made from a variety of materials and textiles, each offering different strengths and characteristics suited for specific fly patterns. The most popular are nylon, polyester, and GSP.  Danville thread has several options available. Nylon – A popular choice due to its durability, stretch, and smooth finish, making it ideal for both beginners and advanced tyers. Polyester – Strong and slightly less stretchy than nylon, providing good color retention and resistance to UV degradation. Silk – Traditionally used for classic and delicate fly patterns, particularly in wet flies and salmon flies. Cotton & Wool – Less common in modern fly tying but sometimes used in traditional patterns for added texture and absorbency. Kevlar & GSP (Gel-Spun Polyethylene) – Ultra-strong threads used for large flies, saltwater patterns, and flies requiring extra durability. How can I enhance my fly tying thread? There are several ways to improve the performance of different types of fly tying thread to make them more durable, easier to work with, and better suited for specific fly patterns: Waxing – Applying wax to your thread improves grip, reduces slippage, and helps secure materials like feathers and fur more effectively. Dubbing Wax or Resin Coating – Adding dubbing wax or resin strengthens the thread and makes it more resistant to fraying, which is ideal for delicate or intricate flies. Pre-Stretching – Lightly stretching the thread before use can help prevent breakage and create a smoother, tighter wrap. Color Customization – You can dye your thread to achieve custom colors for better pattern matching and to attract specific fish species. Using Multiple Threads – Doubling up finer threads or twisting threads together can increase strength while maintaining a thin profile.

I used to think one bobbin was plenty... The truth is, one bobbin will get you started, but it won’t get you far. At first, you’ll tell yourself that swapping out thread colors is no big deal. Then, one night at the vise, you’ll find yourself halfway through a size 16 Adams when you realize you need to switch from gray to black thread. You’ll unwind what you’ve already wrapped, swap spools, and start over—losing both time and patience in the process. That’s when you start thinking, “Maybe I could use another bobbin.” See Product See Product See Product See Product The Case for More Than One Bobbin Having multiple bobbins isn’t just about convenience; it’s about efficiency, sanity, and maybe even tying better flies. For starters, if you keep several bobbins loaded with your go-to threads, you can move seamlessly from one step to the next without breaking your rhythm. Instead of fumbling with spools, you just pick up the next bobbin and keep tying. If you tie a lot of one pattern—say, a dozen Pheasant Tails at a time—this alone is reason enough. Then there’s the matter of thread type. A standard 6/0 thread works fine for most things, but sometimes you need something different. Maybe you’re tying tiny midges with 12/0 thread, or spinning deer hair with something heavy like GSP. Instead of adjusting tension and hoping for the best, it’s a whole lot easier to have dedicated bobbins for each type of thread. Choosing the Right Bobbins If you’re going to have multiple bobbins—and you should—you’ll want a good mix. Or not... Opinions differ here, with some tyers preferring one specific bobbin (and being comfortable with its feel) and then simply running multiples of the same. However, not all bobbins are created equal, and some are better suited for specific tasks than others. In broad sweeps, here are some insights: For everyday tying, the  JS Ceramic Bobbin  is a solid workhorse, with a ceramic tube that keeps things smooth and minimizes thread fraying. If you tie a lot of small flies, the  Rite Bobbin , with its adjustable tension, gives you extra control. The Loon Outdoors Ergo Bobbin  is another great option, designed for comfort during long tying sessions. And for those who want a premium bobbin that does it all, the  Renzetti Ruby Tip Bobbin  is a top-tier choice, featuring a ruby-tipped tube that provides ultimate thread protection and durability. The idea of owning multiple bobbins might seem excessive—until you try it. Then, before you know it, you’ll have a small fleet of them, each loaded with a different thread for different flies. You won’t have to swap spools mid-fly, your tying will be smoother, and you’ll wonder why you didn’t do this sooner. Besides, compared to what you’re spending on hackle, hooks, and fur, a few extra bobbins are a downright sensible investment. Shop Bobbins Now: JS Ceramic Bobbin Rite Bobbin Loon Outdoors Ergo Bobbin Dr. Slick Ceramic Bobbin Now, go load up a few bobbins and get tying. Your future self will thank you.