Fly Tying

Download our handy fly tying thread comparison chart to know exactly what thread to use on what fly.

An interview with Barry Ord Clarke, aka The Feather Bender, author of 'The Feather Benders Advanced Fly Tying Techniques'to talk about the unpredictability of sea trout, why fly tying still matters in a digital world, and what drives him to keep innovating in a craft that’s already centuries old.

Not all hooks are created equal—and the right one can make or break your fly. In this guide, we break down essential hook models from Mustad, Tiemco, and Umpqua to help you build a smart, versatile collection that covers everything from size 26 midges to saltwater streamers.

Saltwater fly-tying 101: Read on for fly tying materials, techniques and the preferred flies for toothy saltwater predators like bluefish and bonito.

Find out what you need to tie all the flies in the Fly Fishers International (FFI)’s Saltwater Fly Tying Skills Award Program .

When it comes to nymphs, weight matters. A well-placed bead gets your fly into the strike zone fast—where the fish are eating—not fluttering above like it missed the memo. The thing is, there’s a quiet genius to fly tying beads. They’re not flashy (okay, sometimes they’re very flashy), but they do a job no amount of thread or dubbing can. And while stuffing a bead on a hook might seem straightforward, there are enough creative ways to do it that you could call it an art form. Or at least a habit worth thinking about. CREATIVE WAYS TO USE BEADS Here are a few ways to weight your nymphs with beads, some common, some clever, all tested on streams and stillwaters where the fish are a little smart and the water’s never quite the right depth. 1. Double Beading (Because Why Not?) This is the fly tying equivalent of bringing two sandwiches to a picnic. Thread one bead on the hook, and then another, right behind it. The effect? It is commonly used in the (aptly named) Double Bead Stonefly Nymph. But, for 'other' nymphs, think: Twice the weight, with a slightly chunky silhouette that looks suspiciously like a caddis pupa after one too many snacks. Use two brass beads if you want bulk without too much sink, or double up on tungsten if you want it to dive like a stone (go barbless for this, because that thing packs a punch if it connects with you, or a fellow angler, you can thank us later). It also creates a little segmentation in the body—a subtle detail, but sometimes that’s what sells it. 2. Use Slotted Tungsten on Jig Hooks (Because Everyone Else Is) Slotted beads were one of those innovations that made some old-school tyers scoff until they actually tried them. Slotting lets the bead ride better on a jig-style hook, which in turn means the fly rides hook-point up. That might sound like a gimmick, but on rocky bottoms and picky fish, it’s a game-changer. (Without being a 'game changer' pattern). You can find slotted beads in all the essential finishes—matte black, metallic gold, copper, and even fluorescent hot spots if you’re feeling bold. Match with a barbless competition hook, and you’ve got yourself a Euro-style weapon that looks innocent and fishes dirty. See Product See Product See Product 3. The Soft Touch: Glass Beads on Small Patterns Sometimes weight isn’t the answer. Sometimes you just want a hint of flash or a subtle glow to suggest a midge or emerger. That’s where glass beads come in—light, bright, and perfect for delicate patterns. Blood red for midges. UV crystal for chironomids. Clear for those “nothing’s working” days when subtlety might be all you’ve got left. You won’t win any depth records with these, but you might fool that one trout sulking in the shallows. 4. The Split Personality: Mixing Beads for Form and Function Who says you can only use one type of bead per fly? Try this: slide on a small tungsten bead for weight, and then a larger brass bead behind it for profile. Or vice versa. You end up with a fly that sinks well but still matches a caddis or stonefly silhouette. And it just plain looks cool in the box. This is also a great way to add a color contrast—say, a black tungsten up front and a nickel brass bead behind. Fish may not know art, but they know what looks like food. Euro nymphing is effective the world over on a variety of species. 5. Bead Behind the Thorax (The Sneaky Sink Trick) Here's a little misdirection I learned from a guide: tie your fly so the bead sits behind the thorax, not at the head. It gives a different profile, keeps the hook eye free for better rigging, and adds a curious kind of wobble to the drift. It’s not traditional and it shouldn't be the 'opener' from out of your box, but when things go quiet it might just work. Take it from the guides: "When you’re tying for 'fish,' not fly tying contests, 'unusual' can be a virtue." 6. Oversized Beads on Short Shank Hooks When in doubt, go big. An oversized tungsten bead on a short-shank or curved hook gets down fast, anchors your rig, and creates a squat little bug that just screams “nutrient-rich.” It's kind of like tying a smallish Clouser minnow with tungsten dumbbell eyes. (Blog on that dropping soon) This is especially handy on small rivers or tailwaters with fast drop-offs, where the window of opportunity is measured in inches. You want your fly in the zone immediately, not 10 feet later. At the end of the day, beads are just another way to solve a problem. The problem being: how do I get my fly where the fish are, and keep it there long enough for them to care? Whether you’re loading up with slotted tungsten for Euro nymphing or tying dainty emergers with glass, the bead’s doing more than adding weight, it’s doing the talking underwater. And if the trout don’t like what it says, well, that’s what fly boxes are for. Tie another. Try something new. Get creative with it. That’s half the fun anyway.

A look at some shortcuts, efficiencies and fly tying hacks that actually work. There comes a time in every fly tyer’s life—usually when you’re tying the eighth Pheasant Tail of the night and the dog’s already gone to bed—when you start looking for a better way.  Not a reinvention of the wheel, just a small trick that makes tying a little easier without making the flies, well, worse. That’s what we’re talking about here: fly tying hacks that actually work. Fly tying is one of those hobbies (lifestyles!) that punishes carelessness and rewards patience. But let’s be honest—most of us aren’t tying museum pieces. We’re tying flies to get eaten (and lost in trees and fouled on rocks and weeds). And for that kind of work, a few hacks can go a long way. Here are some of the best fly tying hacks I’ve picked up over the years—tested, field-approved, and guaranteed to keep your sanity mostly intact. Fly Tying Hacks To Up Your Game 1. Batch Your Prep *Oldest hack in the book but it took me a surprisingly long time to actually do it. If you’re tying a dozen of the same fly, don’t reinvent the wheel each time. Pre-cut your tails, strip your hackle, measure your wings. Get everything set out like a short-order cook at the grill. This isn’t just about efficiency—it’s about rhythm. You’ll tie faster, cleaner, and probably waste less marabou in the process. 2. One Bobbin, One Thread—Unless You Absolutely Can’t Most of the time, the fish couldn’t care less whether your Olive Hares Ear has black thread or olive thread. So unless you're going for a visible thread head or something extra specific, stick with one thread color (like black or tan) for an entire session. Why You Need More Than One Bobbin Read more Fly Tying Bobbins 101: Everything You Need to Know Read more 3. Clean Up Bulky Heads with Mono and Flame If you’re spinning deer hair or building bulky streamer heads, keep a short loop of 6X mono on the bench. Once you’ve trimmed everything down, loop it over the head and give it a quick pass with a lighter. It cleans up flyaways better than scissors and shapes the head without mangling proportions. 4. Half-Hitch Like You Mean It Here’s a (semi) controversial one: you don’t always need a whip finish. If you know how to make a solid thread base and follow it with a good few half-hitches under the eye (and a dab of head cement), it’ll hold just fine. This fly tying hack is especially useful for quick sessions or when you’re tying in bulk and just want to keep the wheels turning. 5. Pre-Weight Your Hooks If you’re tying a run of nymphs or streamers that all require the same wire wraps, do it assembly-line style. Wrap a batch of hooks with lead or lead-free wire in advance and stash them in a cup. You’ll fly through the rest of your tying and wonder why you didn’t do it sooner. 6. Master One Way of Doing a Thing, and Stick With It There are at least five ways to tie in a biot body, and a dozen ways to post a parachute. Learn the one that works best for you and don’t worry about mastering them all. One of the simplest but most effective fly tying hacks is eliminating decisions. Tying becomes less about figuring it out and more about flowing through it. 7. Keep a “Misfit Bag” for Flies That Deserve a Second Chance Every tyer has them—flies that looked good in your head but didn’t quite pan out in real life. Instead of trashing them, toss them in a labeled freezer bag. On a quiet night, you can salvage the materials or turn a “bad” fly into something useful with a tweak here or there. Bonus: some of those weird ones turn out to be the patterns fish love most. Why Fly Tying Hacks Matter These aren’t gimmicks. These are the kinds of fly tying hacks that help you spend less time fussing and more time fishing. They’re about getting to the good part faster—without sacrificing quality where it counts. Because at the end of the day, it’s not the prettiest fly that gets eaten—it’s the one that lands right, drifts true, and shows up when it needs to. If a couple of well-earned hacks help you get there faster? All the better. Collective Consciousness In Fly Tying Read more A Gamechanger for Streamer Fishing: Letting Trout Have it 'Their Way!' Read more

Selecting the right hook size is a crucial step in fly tying and fly fishing success. The size and shape of a hook will determine how well your fly imitates natural prey, how well it floats or swims and, ultimately how effectively you hook and land fish.  This fly hook size guide will help you navigate the numbering system, choose the best hooks for different fly patterns, and avoid common mistakes so you can tie better flies and catch more fish. Understanding Hook Sizes Before actually selecting a hook, you'll need to understand how hook size works. The sizing numbering system can be confusing at first, but once you grasp the basics, you’ll be able to match hook sizes to different fly patterns confidently. Fly Hook Sizing Hook size follow a reverse numbering system—the larger the number, the smaller the hook (e.g., a size 20 hook is much smaller than a size 2). Hooks larger than size 1 are labeled with an “aught” (/) system, such as 1/0, 2/0, or 3/0, where bigger numbers indicate bigger hooks. Hook thickness varies, with standard, heavy-wire, and light-wire hooks designed for different fly types.  Heavy-wire hooks are ideal for strong fish and sinking patterns, while light-wire hooks keep dry flies buoyant. Choosing the right hook size ensures that your fly maintains proper proportions and an effective presentation in the water. Fly Hook Size Guide – Choosing the Right Hook for Each Fly Type Selecting the proper hook size is essential for tying flies that closely match natural insects and baitfish. Using the right size helps improve your presentation, ensures effective hook sets, and ultimately increases your success on the water. Here’s a breakdown of the ideal hook sizes and wire gauges for different fly types and fishing situations. Dry Fly Hook Sizes Small mayfly and midges: Size 18–24Medium mayfly, caddisfly, and terrestrials: Size 12–16 Large mayfly and attractor patterns: Size 8–10 Lighter wire hooks help maintain buoyancy. Popular dry fly hooks: Look for Tiemco, Daiichi, and Mustad dry fly hooks, which are designed with fine wire and standard-length shanks. See Product See Product See Product Nymph and Wet Fly Hook Sizes Nymphs and wet flies imitate underwater insects, making hook weight and shape crucial for proper drift and sink rates. Small nymphs and emergers: Size 16–22Standard mayfly, stonefly, and caddis nymphs: Size 10–14 Larger nymphs and wet flies: Size 6–8Heavier hooks (2X or 3X heavy wire) help nymphs sink faster, while lighter hooks keep emergers in the surface film. Different nymph styles require curved, straight, or long-shank hooks to best match the natural insects they imitate. Streamer and Large Fly Hook Sizes Streamers and large baitfish imitations require strong, durable hooks that can handle aggressive strikes. Standard trout and bass streamers: Size 4–10 Large articulated streamers: Size 2–6 Saltwater and predator flies: 1/0 to 6/0. Hook strength considerations: Predator flies demand 2X or 3X strong wire hooks to prevent opening or even breaking under pressure. See Product See Product Matching Hook Size to Target Species Different fish species have unique feeding behaviors and mouth structures, influencing the best hook sizes for each. Trout – Size 10–24 for dry flies, nymphs, and emergers; Size 4–8 for streamers. Bass – Size 2–10 for poppers, streamers, and crawfish patterns. Pike & Musky – 3/0 and larger for oversized streamers and articulated flies. Salmon & Steelhead – Size 2–8 for nymphs and wet flies; 1/0 and up for large streamers. Saltwater Species – Size 1–6 for bonefish and redfish, 2/0 and larger for tarpon, GTs, and stripers. Some fish, like rainbow trout and panfish, prefer smaller flies, while aggressive predators like bass and pike are drawn to larger baitfish imitations.Choosing the right hook size is all about matching your gear to the conditions and the fish you're targeting. Always consider the reason behind your selection—whether it’s imitating a natural insect, controlling sink rate, or achieving the perfect dry fly drift. For more useful tips, check out our fly tying resources page.

Beads not only add weight to help your fly sink but also enhance its appearance and realism. Once you understand how different bead sizes affect fly performance, you can improve your fly fishing success. Whether you're tying delicate midges or heavy nymphs for fast-moving water, our fly tying bead size chart will help you choose the perfect bead for each fly pattern. How Bead Size Affects Fly Performance The relationship between bead size and hook size: Larger beads require hooks with bigger gapes to maintain a proper keeling and balance, while smaller beads work best on fine-wire hooks for delicate patterns. How different bead sizes influence a fly’s sink rate: Heavier tungsten beads sink faster, making them ideal for deep nymphing, while brass and glass beads provide a slower descent for fishing in shallower waters. When to use smaller vs. larger beads based on fishing conditions: Small beads are effective in clear, slow-moving water where fish are more cautious. Larger beads excel in fast currents where a quick sink rate is necessary to reach feeding zones. Matching Beads to Fly Patterns Midges & small nymphs: Use 1.5mm-2.4mm beads for size 18-22 hooks. Standard nymphs (Pheasant Tail, Hare’s Ear, etc.): 2.4mm-3.5mm beads for size 12-16 hooks. Streamers & large nymphs: 3.5mm-5mm beads for size 6-10 hooks. Standard Fly Tying Bead Size Chart Bead Size (mm) Common Hook Sizes Fly Patterns Material Options 1.5mm (1/16") 18-22 Midges, Small Nymphs Brass, Glass 2.0mm (5/64") 16-20 Small Nymphs, Micro Streamers Brass, Glass 2.4mm (3/32") 14-18 Standard Nymphs (Pheasant Tail, Hare’s Ear) Brass, Tungsten 2.8mm (7/64") 12-16 Larger Nymphs, Small Streamers Brass, Tungsten 3.2mm (1/8") 10-14 Medium Nymphs, Large Pupa, Jig Flies Brass, Tungsten 3.8mm (5/32") 6-12 Large Nymphs, Small Streamers Brass, Tungsten 4.6mm (3/16") 4-8 Streamers, Large Nymphs Tungsten 5.5mm (7/32") 2-6 Large Streamers, Heavy Nymphs Tungsten See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product See Product Tungsten Bead Size Chart Tungsten Bead Size (mm) Common Hook Sizes Fly Patterns Best Use Case 2.0mm 16-20 Small Nymphs, Midges Slow to moderate water, shallow depths 2.4mm 14-18 Standard Nymphs General use, moderate depths 2.8mm 12-16 Heavier Nymphs, Perdigons Faster currents, deeper pools 3.2mm 10-14 Jig Nymphs, Large Nymphs Heavy flows, deep water 3.8mm 6-12 Small Streamers, Large Nymphs Deep holes, fast-moving rivers 4.6mm+ 4-8 Large Streamers, Euro Nymphs Heavyweight flies for deep runs Why Choose Tungsten? Denser than brass – Sinks flies faster with less bulk. Best for euro nymphing and deep-water presentations. Maintains a compact profile while increasing sink rate.  Whether you’re dialing in a winter midge or rigging up a heavy dropper for spring runoff, getting the bead size right can mean the difference between a quick take and a quiet day. Use this guide as your go-to reference, and don’t be afraid to experiment—because sometimes the perfect bead isn't just about the numbers, but how the fly moves in the water. Need to stock up or try something new? Explore our full range of beads and start tying with precision.