Fly Tying Recipes & Patterns

Tied by J. Stockard Pro Tyer Paul Shurtleff Follow Paul on InstagramDesigned and tied by J. Stockard Pro Paul Shurtleff, the Sprout Midge Emerger is a smartly engineered fly that imitates one of the most prolific—and overlooked—stages in the midge life cycle. Built to resemble a midge in the pupal-to-adult transition, this pattern rides low in the water film with just enough floatation and flash to remain visible and lifelike, even in slow drifts or cold water conditions.Midges, or dipterans, are found in virtually every freshwater system around the world. Depending on the region and water type, they’re also known as gnats, chironomids, buzzers, and countless other local nicknames. Though tiny, they hatch in staggering numbers and often account for more than half of a trout’s diet, especially on tailwaters and in the colder months.This particular version of the Midge Emerger is Paul’s personal twist on a classic idea—what he calls a “variant of a variant.” He’s fished it to great effect on Utah’s famed tailwaters, and with good reason. The pattern uses a peacock quill abdomen touched with UV resin and flashabou for subtle shimmer. This mimics the slick, gas-filled casing of a midge about to emerge. A thorax of peacock herl is palmered with dry fly hackle to suggest struggling legs and trapped motion. The fly is finished with a small foam post, which not only keeps it upright and afloat but gives the angler an easy visual cue in low light or tight conditions.Fished correctly, this pattern presents with the abdomen piercing the surface film and the thorax and head riding above it, exactly like a real midge in its emergence stage. It’s a highly effective fly when trout are sipping midges just below the surface and ignoring fully hatched adults.Fish this fly with a dead drift, letting it ride just under the surface. Ideal for winter and early spring midge hatches, especially on tailwaters and slower-moving pools. Pair with 6x or 7x tippet for a delicate presentation. The foam post makes it highly visible even at size 20 and smaller.Materials Hook: TMC 2488 Thread: Semperfli's Nano Silk 18/0 Abdomen: Dyed Peacock Strung Herl (stripped) Ribbing: Ice Blue UV Flashabou Thorax: Dyed Peacock Strung Herl (1-3 herls) Legs: Whiting Farms Grizzly (or color of choice) saddle hackle Gills/Head: Foam Parachute Posts Coating: Semperfli's No Tack UV Resin (for the abdomen) How to Tie the Sprout Midge Emerger 

Tied by J. Stockard Pro Tyer Paul Shurtleff Follow Paul on InstagramDesigned and tied by J. Stockard Pro Paul Shurtleff, the Sprout Midge Emerger is a smartly engineered fly that imitates one of the most prolific—and overlooked—stages in the midge life cycle. Built to resemble a midge in the pupal-to-adult transition, this pattern rides low in the water film with just enough floatation and flash to remain visible and lifelike, even in slow drifts or cold water conditions.Midges, or dipterans, are found in virtually every freshwater system around the world. Depending on the region and water type, they’re also known as gnats, chironomids, buzzers, and countless other local nicknames. Though tiny, they hatch in staggering numbers and often account for more than half of a trout’s diet, especially on tailwaters and in the colder months.This particular version of the Midge Emerger is Paul’s personal twist on a classic idea—what he calls a “variant of a variant.” He’s fished it to great effect on Utah’s famed tailwaters, and with good reason. The pattern uses a peacock quill abdomen touched with UV resin and flashabou for subtle shimmer. This mimics the slick, gas-filled casing of a midge about to emerge. A thorax of peacock herl is palmered with dry fly hackle to suggest struggling legs and trapped motion. The fly is finished with a small foam post, which not only keeps it upright and afloat but gives the angler an easy visual cue in low light or tight conditions.Fished correctly, this pattern presents with the abdomen piercing the surface film and the thorax and head riding above it, exactly like a real midge in its emergence stage. It’s a highly effective fly when trout are sipping midges just below the surface and ignoring fully hatched adults.Fish this fly with a dead drift, letting it ride just under the surface. Ideal for winter and early spring midge hatches, especially on tailwaters and slower-moving pools. Pair with 6x or 7x tippet for a delicate presentation. The foam post makes it highly visible even at size 20 and smaller.Materials Hook: TMC 2488 Thread: Semperfli's Nano Silk 18/0 Abdomen: Dyed Peacock Strung Herl (stripped) Ribbing: Ice Blue UV Flashabou Thorax: Dyed Peacock Strung Herl (1-3 herls) Legs: Whiting Farms Grizzly (or color of choice) saddle hackle Gills/Head: Foam Parachute Posts Coating: Semperfli's No Tack UV Resin (for the abdomen) How to Tie the Sprout Midge Emerger 

Tied by J. Stockard Pro Tyer Justin Aldrich (RIP)This soft hackle pattern from the late J. Stockard Pro Tyer Justin Aldrich is a perfect example of how form and function come together in a highly adaptable trout fly. Blending both naturalistic elements and attractor qualities, this pattern walks a fine line between subtle and suggestive—making it deadly effective in a wide variety of fishing conditions.The body is built with D-Rib, a translucent material that creates realistic segmentation and adds depth when wrapped over a dark brown thread underbody. The chosen orange D-Rib strikes a visual balance—it’s bright enough to trigger a reaction, but the brown beneath tones it down just enough to avoid spooking selective fish.The spiky orange and brown dubbing adds movement and texture, while a few longer strands of orange provide that little flash that often convinces hesitant trout to commit. Justin finishes the fly with a soft mottled brown partridge hackle, which adds a buggy, breathable profile that pulses in the water with every twitch or current shift.To extend the life of the fly, especially around trout teeth, he cleverly added a dubbing noodle at the collar—helping to shield the hackle stem without impeding movement.What makes this fly particularly standout is its versatility. Change up the colors—greens, tans, browns, blacks—and you’ve got imitations for caddis, mayflies, or even small stoneflies depending on hook size. This is a true multi-species imitator, a pattern that doesn’t lock itself into one hatch or season. Fish it as a soft hackle swung through riffles, as the top fly in a two-fly nymph rig, or even dead-drifted through seams and pockets. It looks alive in the water and offers just enough pop to get noticed without being loud.Materials Hook: Barbless Grub, straight eye, sizes #14 – #8. Bead: Tungsten 3.5mm – 4.6mm Countersunk. Additional weight: .020 Lead-free wire. Thread: Dark Brown, 8/0. Collar: Brown SLF dubbing. Hackle: Brown Partridge. Thorax: Fluorescent Orange Angora Goat and Brown SLF dubbing. Body: Medium size Orange D-Rib. Cement: Sally Hansen's hard as nails. Justin’s October Caddis Tying StepsStep 1With the bead threaded and hook seated in the vise make a few wraps with the lead free wire and snug it firmly against the bead. Start your thread just behind the wire and secure wire in place by wrapping over it a few times.Step 2Catch in the D-Rib just behind the lead wraps. While stretching it a bit, secure it down well into the bend of the hook with tight thread turns.Step 3Now build a slight tapered underbody with the thread stopping just on top of the lead free wire. (Caddis typically don’t have such a sharp tapered body like Mayfly and Stones, so no need to go crazy on tapering.)Step 4Bring up the D-Rib in touching turn wraps and secure down on top of the lead-free wire. **(You're gonna be tying on top of the D-Rib some).Step 5Next make a blend of the Angora Goat and SLF dubbing. About a 50/50 mixture is fine.Step 6Now make a dub noodle with the mixture and dub the first part of the thorax about a few millimeters behind the bead. Make sure to make it big enough to spike it out some.Step 7Select a brown partridge feather for the hackle. Don’t be afraid to oversize it. Grab it by the tip and preen the fibers back to snip away the tip for tying in.Step 8Tie in the partridge feather by the tip, concave side down, just in front of the dubbing. Use your favorite hackle pliers to hackle the Partridge then tie down securely with a few tight thread wraps. Snip off butt ends.Step 9After the partridge is secured in, all that needs to be done is a tight dubbing noodle of SLF dubbing and a few turn whip finish. I like to whip finish the dubbing in front of the hackle to help hide the thread wraps but that’s purely a cosmetic application.Step 10Finally, add your favorite thin head cement/varnish and allow to dry. Go fishing...

Designed by J. Stockard Pro Tyer Paul Beel Follow Paul on InstagramJ. Stockard Pro Tyer Paul Beel designed the Bluegill Belly Bean, and as the name suggests, it started out as a bluegill fly. But like many good patterns, it didn’t stay in one lane for long. These days, the Belly Bean catches just as many smallmouth bass, carp, and other warmwater species as it does panfish, and it’s easy to see why.It wasn’t created to imitate a specific insect or minnow. Instead, it’s an attractor fly –a mix of movement, color, and profile that just looks edible to fish. While we usually think of trout as the insect-eaters, the truth is bass and even carp will key in on buggy patterns if they catch the right motion. And the Belly Bean has plenty of that, thanks to rubber legs, a flashy profile, and a compact shape that could resemble either a bug or a small baitfish, depending on how it’s retrieved.Paul recommends stripping the fly—either slowly or quickly—when targeting bass. In stillwater like ponds or lakes, let it sink for 10 to 15 seconds before retrieving it. In rivers or creeks, you can bounce it along the bottom or simply strip it back through likely holding water. It’s a versatile little fly that works in a variety of conditions and across multiple species.The material list below includes specific color suggestions, but the real fun comes from experimenting with your own combinations.Materials Hook: Size 10–12 nymph or jig hook Thread: 6/0 or 140 denier, black or to match body Tail: Black rubber legs Body: Ice Dub – Peacock or olive Collar: Black Ice Dub Head: Tungsten bead – black nickel or gold Finish: UV resin on the head for added durability and shine How to Tie the Bluegill Belly Bean 

The Double T—short for “The Trout Treat”—is a rugged caddis pupae pattern developed by J. Stockard Pro Tyer Matt Beers, born on his home waters in the storied Catskills of New York. The idea was straightforward: create a fly that could handle rough currents, frequent hookups, and the kind of hard takes that wild trout are known for.Matt designed this pattern some years ago now with one goal in mind: durability without complication. The result is a fly that’s simple to tie, tough as nails, and remarkably effective across a range of conditions. From high-gradient Catskill streams to more genteel British waters in Scotland and England, the Double T has proven itself as a versatile workhorse in trout boxes on both sides of the Atlantic.Fish it like a traditional nymph with a tight line or Euro setup, or swing it like a wet through fast riffles—it’s built to take a hit. The furled Antron body paired with a snug dubbing collar offers the kind of resilience that translates to fish after fish action without a trip back to the bench. As Matt puts it, this fly can take “a beating and a half”—and keep catching. Materials Hook: Size 15–10 – J. Stockard J2500 Heavy Scud or TMC 2487 Shrimp & Caddis Pupae Hook Bead: Cyclops Brass Bead to match hook size Thread: Wapsi UTC Ultra 70 Denier Tail: Stripped Goose Biot (Dark Brown or Tan) or Turkey Biot Quills (Dark Brown or Tan) Body: Antron Yarn – Dark Brown Collar: Angora Goat Dubbing – Brown The Double T Tying StepsStep 1 Start with selecting a size 16-10 J Stockard J2500 Heavy Scud Hook or TMC 2487 Shrimp & Caddis Pupae Hook and a Cyclops Bead to match hook size. (The heaviest bead the hook will allow). Step 2 Tie on the thread behind the bead and wrap all the way through to the bend until parallel with the barb. Then wrap back up to mid-way of bend making a small ball of thread in preparation for biot tail buds. Step 3 Tie in two biots in a “V” shape synching them down as returning your thread to right behind the beadhead. Step 4 Tie on antron yarn flat behind beadhead and synch it down on the top of the hook shank back to the tail biots. Then return your thread to behind the beadhead (we are using the antron to build body). Step 5 It’s time to furl! Holding the end of the antron with your hackle pliers begin twisting the antron clockwise until it begins to form a rope, if you go too far it will begin to double over on itself. You want a nice tightrope to work with. Step 6 Using your furled antron wrap your body with touching tight wraps all the way up the hook shank and tye off behind the beadhead. cut off excess antron. Step 7 Bring your thread back over the wrapped antron body about an 1/8th of the hook shank and tie in your wing buds. Two more biots in a V shape. Step 8 Dub angora goat directly onto thread (dubbing wax may be needed angora can be rough to dub). Step 9 Dub your collar tightly finishing right behind Beadhead, whip finish and cut thread. Tease the angora collar for desired buggyness and GO FISHING!!

The Double T—short for “The Trout Treat”—is a rugged caddis pupae pattern developed by J. Stockard Pro Tyer Matt Beers, born on his home waters in the storied Catskills of New York. The idea was straightforward: create a fly that could handle rough currents, frequent hookups, and the kind of hard takes that wild trout are known for.Matt designed this pattern some years ago now with one goal in mind: durability without complication. The result is a fly that’s simple to tie, tough as nails, and remarkably effective across a range of conditions. From high-gradient Catskill streams to more genteel British waters in Scotland and England, the Double T has proven itself as a versatile workhorse in trout boxes on both sides of the Atlantic.Fish it like a traditional nymph with a tight line or Euro setup, or swing it like a wet through fast riffles—it’s built to take a hit. The furled Antron body paired with a snug dubbing collar offers the kind of resilience that translates to fish after fish action without a trip back to the bench. As Matt puts it, this fly can take “a beating and a half”—and keep catching. Materials Hook: Size 15–10 – J. Stockard J2500 Heavy Scud or TMC 2487 Shrimp & Caddis Pupae Hook Bead: Cyclops Brass Bead to match hook size Thread: Wapsi UTC Ultra 70 Denier Tail: Stripped Goose Biot (Dark Brown or Tan) or Turkey Biot Quills (Dark Brown or Tan) Body: Antron Yarn – Dark Brown Collar: Angora Goat Dubbing – Brown The Double T Tying StepsStep 1 Start with selecting a size 16-10 J Stockard J2500 Heavy Scud Hook or TMC 2487 Shrimp & Caddis Pupae Hook and a Cyclops Bead to match hook size. (The heaviest bead the hook will allow). Step 2 Tie on the thread behind the bead and wrap all the way through to the bend until parallel with the barb. Then wrap back up to mid-way of bend making a small ball of thread in preparation for biot tail buds. Step 3 Tie in two biots in a “V” shape synching them down as returning your thread to right behind the beadhead. Step 4 Tie on antron yarn flat behind beadhead and synch it down on the top of the hook shank back to the tail biots. Then return your thread to behind the beadhead (we are using the antron to build body). Step 5 It’s time to furl! Holding the end of the antron with your hackle pliers begin twisting the antron clockwise until it begins to form a rope, if you go too far it will begin to double over on itself. You want a nice tightrope to work with. Step 6 Using your furled antron wrap your body with touching tight wraps all the way up the hook shank and tye off behind the beadhead. cut off excess antron. Step 7 Bring your thread back over the wrapped antron body about an 1/8th of the hook shank and tie in your wing buds. Two more biots in a V shape. Step 8 Dub angora goat directly onto thread (dubbing wax may be needed angora can be rough to dub). Step 9 Dub your collar tightly finishing right behind Beadhead, whip finish and cut thread. Tease the angora collar for desired buggyness and GO FISHING!!

The Nome’s Nuisance is the brainchild of J. Stockard Pro Tyer Nome Buckman, who created the fly under the sort of conditions many anglers know all too well: by accident, and out of sheer necessity. You can find Nome’s work featured on the J. Stockard site and across social media, where her inventive patterns blend creativity with on-the-water practicality.This fly was born on what turned into an impromptu “one-fly” day. Nome had left all her fly boxes out to dry—out of reach and out of mind—only to realize at the river that she had exactly one fly stuck to her patch: a slightly disheveled slumpbuster tied during her early days at the bench. Long streamer hook, no wire rib to matuka the bunny strip properly, and just enough awkward charm to make you think, “Well, maybe it’ll fish.”Not only did it fish—it survived the whole day and landed some impressive trout. That rough prototype went on to inspire Nome’s Nuisance, a guide-style streamer that merges the best of the slumpbuster and matuka designs into a single, versatile baitfish pattern. It’s become one of Nome’s go-to flies in both freshwater and salt. In larger sizes, it’s proven just as deadly in the brine as in the rivers and lakes.Materials Hook: size 10-2, Mustad 9674 or Daiichi 1750 Thread: 6/0 Black (your choice) Tail: White Marabou Flash: Gold Speckled Flashabou Body: Non-lead 0.030 weight, Pearl Body Braid, marabou filler Rabbit Strip Head: Black Thread (your choice) Nome’s Nuisance Tying StepsStep 1 Install body weight and attach the marabou tail. Step 2 After the tail, move thread forward beyond weight and palmer the rest of the marabou feather to cover the weight and track back to your tail attachment for flash and more material. Step 3 Attach the body braid. Step 4 Now, attach the rabbit strip. Be sure to clear away fur and wrap threads on the skin. Go ahead with a very small amount of head cement on the threads only for added security. Step 5 The first wrap of the body braid is over your threads on the rabbit strip then continue to palmer and cover the body until passed the weight. (Hint if the fibers from the marabou are in the way wet your fingers and stroke the material towards the eye before palmering the body braid). Then attach the rabbit strip leaving lots of room at the eye for the collar. Step 6 ​Move your thread forward and touch the attached area threads with just a little bit of head cement and make sure the rabbit strip is kept at a 45-degree angle like shown above for the easiest wraps and to finish the head. About two wraps at most of the rabbit strip, then tie off. Once tied off snip the rabbit strip close and flatten the remaining skin with your finger to enable easy head finishing with the fly. Step 7 The sky is the limit as to color choices. Nome’s Nuisances fly is a highly versatile fly for mimicking any baitfish pattern.

The Nome’s Nuisance is the brainchild of J. Stockard Pro Tyer Nome Buckman, who created the fly under the sort of conditions many anglers know all too well: by accident, and out of sheer necessity. You can find Nome’s work featured on the J. Stockard site and across social media, where her inventive patterns blend creativity with on-the-water practicality.This fly was born on what turned into an impromptu “one-fly” day. Nome had left all her fly boxes out to dry—out of reach and out of mind—only to realize at the river that she had exactly one fly stuck to her patch: a slightly disheveled slumpbuster tied during her early days at the bench. Long streamer hook, no wire rib to matuka the bunny strip properly, and just enough awkward charm to make you think, “Well, maybe it’ll fish.”Not only did it fish—it survived the whole day and landed some impressive trout. That rough prototype went on to inspire Nome’s Nuisance, a guide-style streamer that merges the best of the slumpbuster and matuka designs into a single, versatile baitfish pattern. It’s become one of Nome’s go-to flies in both freshwater and salt. In larger sizes, it’s proven just as deadly in the brine as in the rivers and lakes.Materials Hook: size 10-2, Mustad 9674 or Daiichi 1750 Thread: 6/0 Black (your choice) Tail: White Marabou Flash: Gold Speckled Flashabou Body: Non-lead 0.030 weight, Pearl Body Braid, marabou filler Rabbit Strip Head: Black Thread (your choice) Nome’s Nuisance Tying StepsStep 1 Install body weight and attach the marabou tail. Step 2 After the tail, move thread forward beyond weight and palmer the rest of the marabou feather to cover the weight and track back to your tail attachment for flash and more material. Step 3 Attach the body braid. Step 4 Now, attach the rabbit strip. Be sure to clear away fur and wrap threads on the skin. Go ahead with a very small amount of head cement on the threads only for added security. Step 5 The first wrap of the body braid is over your threads on the rabbit strip then continue to palmer and cover the body until passed the weight. (Hint if the fibers from the marabou are in the way wet your fingers and stroke the material towards the eye before palmering the body braid). Then attach the rabbit strip leaving lots of room at the eye for the collar. Step 6 ​Move your thread forward and touch the attached area threads with just a little bit of head cement and make sure the rabbit strip is kept at a 45-degree angle like shown above for the easiest wraps and to finish the head. About two wraps at most of the rabbit strip, then tie off. Once tied off snip the rabbit strip close and flatten the remaining skin with your finger to enable easy head finishing with the fly. Step 7 The sky is the limit as to color choices. Nome’s Nuisances fly is a highly versatile fly for mimicking any baitfish pattern.

Tied by Matt O'Neal of Savage Flies on YouTubeThe All-Fur Wet Fly might not have originated with Dave Hughes, but he’s the one who put it on the map. Somewhere between a traditional nymph and a classic wet, this pattern blends form and function in a way that’s unmistakably Hughes—equal parts practical observation, entomological study, and time on the water.Dave Hughes is a writer, teacher, and lifelong student of the craft. He’s known for his work on wet flies, and this one stands out as a favorite—not because it’s flashy, but because it just plain works. The All-Fur Wet Fly is simple to tie, drifts naturally, and can be fished in a variety of ways, from a slow swing to a dead drift. It’s one of those flies that fills a quiet but permanent space in your fly box.This version is tied by Matt O’Neal of Savage Flies, who brings Hughes’ original dressing to life with his signature clear instruction and no-frills presentation. It’s a humble-looking fly, but as many of us have learned the hard way, those are often the ones that catch the most fish.Materials Hook: #12-16 standard wet or 1x heavy Thread: Orange Tail: Hare's ear (guard hairs from Hare's Mask) Body: Hare's ear dubbing (underfur with a few guard hairs from Hare's Mask) Hackle: Squirrel body fur (in split thread or a dubbing loop) How to Tie the Hughes All-fur Wet Fly