Fly of the Month by J. Stockard Pro Tyer, Justin Aldrich, Habersham County, Georgia. Justin can be found on Instagram.
My Gold Slaughter Stones have proven themselves throughout the U.S. and a few places out of country for about a year. This much weight on one fly pattern isn’t necessarily new, neither is this color scheme, but what’s seen here is the final product of much field testing and a new spin for this much weight and classic colors.
I also want to suggest not excluding this pattern for tournament use. (4.0mm Tungsten bead min, limited lead wraps, etc.) If wanting this to be a legal tournament pattern just exclude the use of the second tungsten bead and use the 4.0mm alone.
Slaughter Stone Golden Stone Fly Materials
•Hook: Barbless 3x long Streamer.
•Bead: Two Black Nickel Tungsten Countersunk beads. One 4.6mm and one 4.0mm. (Use whichever appropriate sized beads for the specific sized hook.)
•Additional weight: .020 lead wraps.
•Thread: Semperfli Classic Waxed thread. 8/0.
•Wingcase: Black Scud Back. 1/8″.
•Legs/Tail: MFC Centipede legs.
•Thorax: Brown SLF and Pure Squirrel guard hair mix.
•Body/Abdomen: Yellow Floss.
•Rib: Med. Brown/Tan D-Rib.
•UV RESIN: Semperfli No Tack.
•Varnish: Sally Hansen Hard as Nails.
•Cement: Loctite Superglue.(whatever drys clear.)
•First slide the 4.6mm Tungsten bead on hook, then slide the second smaller 4.0mm on the shank starting with the bigger hole. This will allow the beads to stay flush together.
•Seat the hook in vise.
•Next wrap a few turns of .020 lead on the shank and jam the beads in place with it.
•Afterwards, start your thread in back of the lead and wrap over the lead securing it in place.
•Tie in the tail right behind the lead. Take a single piece of Centipede legs and catch it in just behind the lead wraps. Do this by catching the rubber leg in the middle of the single piece. Then grab both tag ends and fold backwards past the bend of the hook securing in the rubber leg on top of the shank and to the bend.
•Tie in a piece of medium size D-Rib in the thorax area on the side of the shank away from you and secure down to the bend of the hook
•Tie in a piece of your favorite yarn or thicker tying thread on the side of the shank closest to you just behind the lead wraps and secure in to the bend of the hook. (Feel free to just use your working thread to make your body.)
•*Now finish building any necessary taper for the body with your working thread. Leave the thread in the Abdomen area waiting to catch in the yarn.*
•(If using yarn.)Next start wrapping the yarn up building the body. Since the yarn is thicker it will help build the taper just like you did with the thread. Don’t be afraid to double back on your yarn if need be. When you get to the bead tie off the yarn and snip tag off close.
•SUPERGLUE: Superglue the body yarn. This step is to increase durability in both yarn and D-Rib rib material. I like to use a superglue with a brush applicator but it’s just Tiers choice. Apply a generous amount of superglue to the yarn. While it’s still wet start to rib the body with the D-Rib in open turns until into the Thorax. Tie down and snip tag off close.
•Tie in the Scud Back wingcase material down to just behind the beads.
•Then tie a single piece of rubber leg on each side of the Thorax.
•Dub a thick Thorax section making sure to cover the second bead and all thread wraps. Leave the thread just behind the bead.
•Fold over the wingcase and tie down just behind the bead. Snip off tag end close.
•Make a hotspot with a couple 3 turn whip finishes. Snip off thread close.
•Using some “thick” U.V. Resin build up the wingcase a little bit covering both the scudback and the front bead.
•Finally coat the body and wingcase in a thin cement or varnish.