bluefish flies

Saltwater fly-tying 101: Read on for fly tying materials, techniques and the preferred flies for toothy saltwater predators like bluefish and bonito.

There’s something satisfying about tying flies for fish with teeth. Not delicate little teeth, either, real teeth. Bluefish are one of the few inshore saltwater species that will destroy not just your leader or your fly, but occasionally your faith in material science.


They’re not subtle. They don’t sip. And they definitely don’t “mouth” your fly like a hesitant trout. They charge it, smash it, shake the hell out of it... In short - a great species to target!


Because of their toothy nature (and the fact that they, usually, aren't fussy( tying flies for bluefish isn’t about artistry or delicate proportions. It’s about durability, function, and knowing what gets their attention—fast.


Durability Matters When the Fish Have Cutlery Like A Bluefish Does


You can tie the prettiest fly on the Eastern Seaboard, but if it comes apart after one hit, it’s just expensive marine litter. Bluefish will chew through bucktail, unravel flash, bend hooks, and slice your tippet like it was monofilament spaghetti.



Some tips to make your flies last longer:

  • Use tough thread: 210 denier is a good place to start. Gel-spun thread works even better if you can tie with it.
  • Epoxy or UV resin: Lock in your thread wraps and cover heads liberally. Don’t be shy. Check out some choices here. 
  • Sub out natural feathers: They look good (and a bucktail's action on a clouser is just something else), but bluefish make confetti out of them. Stick with synthetics where possible.
  • Wire leader: Use wire tippet or at least 40-50 lb fluorocarbon is a must unless you’re donating flies to the ocean on purpose. 

Hooks Built for Abuse

Use strong, corrosion-resistant hooks, preferably with a short shank and a wide gap. Brands like Ahrex, Umpqua, and Tiemco (TMC) all make excellent saltwater models that can handle a bluefish’s aggressive take and a prolonged tug-of-war in the surf.

A few recommendations:

  • Ahrex SA270: A beefy streamer hook with an open bend—excellent for baitfish patterns.
  • TMC 811S: Time-tested and forged strong, this is a go-to for saltwater anglers.
  • Umpqua X-Series XS410: Built for hard hooksets and tough mouths.

Match your hook size to your fly, but don’t go too small. Size 4 up to 2/0 is a sweet spot, depending on what kind of baitfish you're imitating.


Top Materials for Bluefish Flies

Think synthetic and think sturdy. You’re aiming for flash and movement, but also for something that won’t fall apart after the first fish.


Materials worth keeping at the tying bench:

EP Fibers or SF Blend – Synthetic, durable, and with great action in the water.


Flashabou and Krystal Flash – But don't overdo it. A little flash gets attention; too much looks like tinsel.


UV Epoxy or Solarez – To finish heads or coat entire flies like the Surf Candy.


Bucktail – Still a staple, but don’t expect it to last forever. Good for profile and taper.


Flat Waxed Nylon Thread – Strong enough to hold your fly together through multiple hook-ups. Learn more about when to use what thread, here.



flies for bluefish and bonito
Bonito (and striped bass) have a very similar menu to bluefish.

Five Best Flies for Bluefish

If you only had five flies to pack before walking onto a tide-swept beach or poling into a blitz of foam and birds, here’s what I’d suggest:



1. EP Baitfish Fly

A modern classic. Tied with Enrico Puglisi’s synthetic fibers, this fly gives you a natural profile, great movement, and enough durability to survive a few fish before getting chewed down to a stub. Tie in chartreuse/white or olive/white with large stick-on eyes and a thick resin head. This fly is one of the required flies of the FFI's Saltwater Award Program. Find out more as well as how to tie it, here. 



2. Clouser Deep Minnow

Ask any saltwater guide, anywhere in the world, what the one fly is they will never not have in their own box, and the most likely answer would be a clouser minnow. This is a great pattern for bluefish. Tie it with heavy dumbbell eyes for that signature jigging motion. Chartreuse and white is the standard, but gray/white or blue/white work well too. Bucktail's the traditional choice, but consider switching to synthetic (EP works well) if you're tired of your tails getting ripped clean off.




3. Surf Candy

This is a fly that looks simple, but it does everything right. Sparse profile, bright flash, and bulletproof construction. Tie it with Super Hair or Polar Fiber, wrap in flash, then coat the whole thing in UV resin until it feels like a saltwater lollipop. Perfect for clear water or finicky blitzes.


4. Deceiver (Tied Heavy)

This one might be overkill in size, but it’s perfect for mimicking adult bunker or mullet. Tie it with synthetic hackle or long synthetic blend materials to avoid the “shredded chicken” look after one hit. Add a little flash and a big, bold eye.


5. Half-and-Half

Half Deceiver, half Clouser, all business. With a bucktail tail and dumbbell eyes, this fly drops, swims, and pulses in all the right ways. It’s one of those patterns that doesn’t look fancy but draws hits when nothing else will.

The (beautiful) truth is that tying bluefish flies is less about perfection and more about preparation. In terms of what your fly 'looks' like they are a very forgiving species. You’re not trying to fool a PhD student here, you’re targeting a fish that will happily eat anything shiny if it moves right. But you do want flies that will hold up long enough to enjoy the chaos.

If you tie a box full of pretty, fragile flies, that first bluefish will fix your priorities. Fortunately, a little resin, a strong hook, and a few chewed-up fingers are usually all the reminders you need.

BluefishBonitoFlies for bluefishSaltwaterSaltwater fly tying

Leave a comment