Fly of the Month August 2021

Fly of the Month – Hi-Vis Lite

Guess Blogger and Tyer: Jon Bates, Pennsylvania

The Hi-Vis Lite is my slimmed down version of the Hi-Vis Shiner from Nomad Anglers. I came across this pattern 2-3 years ago and it has become my favorite modern streamer for Smallmouth. The pattern only uses 2 materials and is very low on the difficulty scale for tying. I have tied these for many different species in both freshwater and salt.

Hook: Partridge Attitude Extra sizes 4 thru 3/0 or BGH Big Game Hunter Hook
Thread: Danville 140 Denier Black
Tail: Craft Fur
Body: Ripple Ice Hair in Pearl
Eyes: Flymen Living Eyes 3D
UV: Solarez Bone Dry

Continue reading → Fly of the Month – Hi-Vis Lite

Fly of the Month – The Dream Seller

J.Stockard Pro Tyer: John Satkowski, Toledo, OH, fly tying demonstrator and instructor, you can find him on Instagram at

Fly of the Month Dream SellerComing up with an original streamer pattern is tough enough, throw in the fact that it has to be fairly simple to tie and commercially viable compounds things immensely. The Dream Seller is a pattern I have been working on for a while that went through quite a few revisions before it ended up being darn near perfect for predatory fish. This pattern really pushes a lot of water and really has a lot of nice movement that draws fish in. The two keys to this fly are the Icelandic Sheep tail and the Senyo Laser dub head. You can alter the weight to work different parts of the water column and tie it in different sizes to fit your needs. Give this fly a try, you definitely won’t be disappointed. You can see in the picture a new, shiny chub version and a beat up one I took from my streamer box with some tippet still attached.

The first version of this fly had a collar of Laser dub on both the front and back hook, it also had a longer tail and more flash. Initially tied to tempt pike, I decided to downsize it a little bit and make the materials a bit sparser for more movement. I also eliminated the shank I put in the middle so now it is just a two hook articulated fly. The fly also was a little heavy when wet so lessening the materials also helped the fly become easier to cast, particularly with a 6 or 7 weight rod which I use most often.

The Dream Seller is fairly easy to tie and is really durable with the use of backward tying techniques. This is my favorite method of tying flies with either Icelandic Sheep or craft fur. I get a fair amount of questions with both of these materials so I thought I would talk a little bit about each. Craft fur is a great material for tying, it moves great and it easily sheds water on the back cast. The mistake I see a lot of people make is they don’t take the time to prep it properly. I always cut a slightly larger hunk than I think I will need and then comb out the underfur thoroughly. Not combing the fur will lead to the material not being able to move as well through the water and it makes tie in points more bulky and unsightly. You can also save the underfur and put it in a little bag to use for dubbing. Start taking the time to prep your craft fur and you will see noticeable differences in your flies and in their action and appearance.

Icelandic sheep is similar in that you need to take a little extra time with the material. It does have some underfur that you will need to remove. I don’t remove all of it, but getting rid of 80% of the underfur will make your fly breathe and move better while maintaining some appearance of bulk. This also helps with backwards tying the sheep because you can create a smaller tie in point and when you reverse the hair to tie down again, you get a little lift from a small amount of the underfur perfect for the top side of the hook shank when making a baitfish wing. The backward tying method makes your flies much more durable and also helps a bit with spacing when filling up a hook shank for a streamer. You can utilize less hook space for larger materials such as bucktail, sheep, wool, or various synthetics.

This is a fun fly to tie and is equally enjoyable to fish. I prefer throwing this fly on a 6 or 7 weight rod, although if you supersize the fly for bigger species you want to use an 8 weight or larger. I try to really build in action to my flies with the tying materials, hook choice, etc. but I do stick to a couple of retrieves for this fly that have given me pretty good results. Inevitably, the fish will tell you what they want but this is a good starting point. A strip, strip, pause, and then a sharp, long strip gets the most out of the Dream Seller. The fly will wiggle, turn, and profile on the strips, and then slowly start to sink on the pause. The long, harder strip will jump the fly up and get it moving again making it imitate a dying or struggling baitfish. This is deadly on smallmouth, and even more effective on fish species that tend to follow flies such as pike. If you are looking for an articulated fly to rip some lips, tie up some Dream Sellers and give them a toss in your local waters.

Continue reading → Fly of the Month – The Dream Seller

Fly of the Month – The All Night Diner

Guest Blogger & Fly Tyer: Bo Wentworth of Pennsylvania, Find Bo @:

The flies that I tie are made out of necessity, the necessity to create art, and the necessity to create fishable flies. Sometimes both of those driving forces combine and align, The All Night Diner is a great example of this. Named after one of my favorite Modest Mouse songs, The All Night Diner is fun to tie and an effective dry fly. This pattern is a great example of how the tying art flies leads to new techniques for effective fishable patterns. I first tied this pattern late at night on a long project fly using a VKsteelworks hook.

I tied a parachute post and added a few goose biots for extra dimension and aesthetic appeal on the back of a salmon fly. The idea then came to me to add goose biots in various colors onto the parachute post for added visibility. Being able to use multiple colors like pink, orange, yellow, and blue on the same post allows the angler’s eye to pick up the differentiating color easier than a solid color post. Though a solid color is certainly easier to tie, the All Night Diner is easier to see deeper into the night.

The flies pictured are tied with moose mane, but can be tied with any body material or dubbing to match whatever insect you are trying to replicate. The goose biots on the abdomen of the fly are tied to match the post for aesthetic appeal, but when I fish this fly I will match those biots to the body material. The thorax is composed of peacock herl and can be substituted for any other material of your choosing. The parachute post pictured shows my use of a calf tail, which is a favorite material of mine wrapped in whiting farms hackle.

Here is a material List for this fly with Links:

Hook: Firehole: 317 BL Nymph Emerger Hook, TMC 200R Nymph & Dry Fly Hook

Body Material Moose Mane:

Goose Biots:

Hackle Whiting Farms Golden or Silver Badger or any color:

Thorax Peacock Dyed Peacock Strung Herl:

Parachute Post Calf Tail White:

All Night Diner Fly Tying Instructions

Step 1: The Hook
Place your hook in the vice and tie in your thread. It is important to get a nice even thread base so later our moose mane body will lay flat and even on the hook shank. On this pattern my favorite thread to use is Semperfli Nano Silk 18/0 in white.

Step 2: Parachute Post
The First material we are going to apply is the calf tail post. Take a clump of white calf tail about as long as the hook shank and lay down on top of the hook with the ends facing forward. A couple of secure wraps and trim of any excess hairs on the back end. Next wrap slowly around your clump of calf tail to orient it vertically to make your parachute post. I take a small amount of Solarez Thin Hard to the post at this point to make it a little stiffer to easily wrap our hackle later on.

Step 3: Moose Mane Body
Take two strands of moose mane one white and one black and align them so their tips are the even. Lay them down on the side of the hook shank facing towards you and slowly wrap them down with your thread. Return your thread back up the shank to the point that your calf tail has been seated. Slowly wrap your two strands of moose mane up the shank until you reach your thread and secure it down with a couple of solid wraps. This material is relatively brittle and if you are having difficulties with it breaking or cracking it can help to soak it in warm water for a few minutes before using it. For some more info on working with moose mane check out a detailed discussion on my website. Applying a uv resin over this material will help it stay in place and last longer on the water. For this application my favorite resin by far is Solarez Bone Dry.

Step 4: Thorax
Select two goose biots of any color of your choosing. For aesthetics I will match these biots to the ones we later use for the post. Tie them in right where your moose mane body ends and secure them with a few steady wraps just as you would on a pattern like a prince nymph. Next take two pieces of peacock herl and tie them in and return your thread to the eye of the hook. Wrap your peacock herl forward to the eye, whip finish and cut your thread.

Step 5: Parachute Post
Adjust your vice so it is face towards you and your fly is oriented horizontally. This allows us to take the time and easily tackle this post. Now select your goose biots of any color and begin adding them to your post. I like to add one on each side first and then the back and front. As you add each biot be mindful of their orientation, and trim the bottoms off and make sure the post is staying clean for our next step of adding our hackle.

Step 5: Hackle
Select your hackle and prepare to attach to your post. The size and color of your hackle is up to you, and there are some amazing colors to experiment with from Whiting Farms. Strip off a small amount on the side that will be wrapping around the post to keep the post looking clean. Wrap your hackle down your posty and tie it off close to the bottom of your post. A careful whip finish to not trap any fibers down and cut your thread.