J.Stockard Pro Tyer: John Satkowski, Toledo, OH, fly tying demonstrator and instructor, you can find him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/johnsatkowski/

Fly of the Month Dream SellerComing up with an original streamer pattern is tough enough, throw in the fact that it has to be fairly simple to tie and commercially viable compounds things immensely. The Dream Seller is a pattern I have been working on for a while that went through quite a few revisions before it ended up being darn near perfect for predatory fish. This pattern really pushes a lot of water and really has a lot of nice movement that draws fish in. The two keys to this fly are the Icelandic Sheep tail and the Senyo Laser dub head. You can alter the weight to work different parts of the water column and tie it in different sizes to fit your needs. Give this fly a try, you definitely won’t be disappointed. You can see in the picture a new, shiny chub version and a beat up one I took from my streamer box with some tippet still attached.

The first version of this fly had a collar of Laser dub on both the front and back hook, it also had a longer tail and more flash. Initially tied to tempt pike, I decided to downsize it a little bit and make the materials a bit sparser for more movement. I also eliminated the shank I put in the middle so now it is just a two hook articulated fly. The fly also was a little heavy when wet so lessening the materials also helped the fly become easier to cast, particularly with a 6 or 7 weight rod which I use most often.

The Dream Seller is fairly easy to tie and is really durable with the use of backward tying techniques. This is my favorite method of tying flies with either Icelandic Sheep or craft fur. I get a fair amount of questions with both of these materials so I thought I would talk a little bit about each. Craft fur is a great material for tying, it moves great and it easily sheds water on the back cast. The mistake I see a lot of people make is they don’t take the time to prep it properly. I always cut a slightly larger hunk than I think I will need and then comb out the underfur thoroughly. Not combing the fur will lead to the material not being able to move as well through the water and it makes tie in points more bulky and unsightly. You can also save the underfur and put it in a little bag to use for dubbing. Start taking the time to prep your craft fur and you will see noticeable differences in your flies and in their action and appearance.

Icelandic sheep is similar in that you need to take a little extra time with the material. It does have some underfur that you will need to remove. I don’t remove all of it, but getting rid of 80% of the underfur will make your fly breathe and move better while maintaining some appearance of bulk. This also helps with backwards tying the sheep because you can create a smaller tie in point and when you reverse the hair to tie down again, you get a little lift from a small amount of the underfur perfect for the top side of the hook shank when making a baitfish wing. The backward tying method makes your flies much more durable and also helps a bit with spacing when filling up a hook shank for a streamer. You can utilize less hook space for larger materials such as bucktail, sheep, wool, or various synthetics.

This is a fun fly to tie and is equally enjoyable to fish. I prefer throwing this fly on a 6 or 7 weight rod, although if you supersize the fly for bigger species you want to use an 8 weight or larger. I try to really build in action to my flies with the tying materials, hook choice, etc. but I do stick to a couple of retrieves for this fly that have given me pretty good results. Inevitably, the fish will tell you what they want but this is a good starting point. A strip, strip, pause, and then a sharp, long strip gets the most out of the Dream Seller. The fly will wiggle, turn, and profile on the strips, and then slowly start to sink on the pause. The long, harder strip will jump the fly up and get it moving again making it imitate a dying or struggling baitfish. This is deadly on smallmouth, and even more effective on fish species that tend to follow flies such as pike. If you are looking for an articulated fly to rip some lips, tie up some Dream Sellers and give them a toss in your local waters.

Materials list:

The Dream Seller (Chub Color Scheme, other color schemes that work are sexy shad, black/purple, firetiger, red/white, and chartreuse/white)
Hook: Umpqua U502 or J2 607 Bass Hook, you can vary size but these are size 4 and 2
Tail: Clear Barred Predator Wrap
Tail 2: White Icelandic Sheep
Tail 3: Blue Ice Angel Hair
Body: Olive Hackle Flash
Body 2: Craft Fur, olive and white
Flash: Olive and Blue Flashabou
Head: three colors of Senyo Laser Dub, yellow, olive, and gray
Hackles: Hareline Premium Saddle Hackles
Beads/Wire: White holographic beads, Beadalon 19 strand wire

Fly Tying Instructions

Step 1.  Put the hook in the vise and attach a thread base. For this color scheme I am using olive 6/0 Ultrathread

Step 2.  At the barb point of the hook, tie in 6-7 strands of Predator Wrap and then fold it over and tie down again. The resulting tail should be about a hook shank and a half in length.

Step 3. Cut a clump of Icelandic sheep and comb out most of the underfur. Tie it in at the tail so that it is two and a half hook shanks in length.

Step 4. Take some blue ice Angel hair and tie it in at the halfway point and then double it over and lay over the sheep. This should be sparse, brush the tail materials to combine them a bit.

Step 5. Tie in some olive hackle flash and loosely palmer it up the hook shank leaving a bit of room near the front of the hook for the craft fur.

Step 6. Cut and brush out a clump of olive and white craft fur. Tie these down backwards style so that the tips are facing the hook eye. Secure them with tight wraps and trim a little of the butt ends of the craft fur. Leave a little as it helps spread out the material a bit.

Step 7. I use a ballpoint pen that I took the ink and tip out of for this step, I push the craft fur backwards and tie down with tight wraps. Make sure that you get the top and bottom colors even when you tie them down.  Clip 3 strands of olive and blue flashabou and tie them down at the halfway point on the thread head. Double them over and tie down so that they lay over the craft fur. Whip finish it twice and apply any cement or glue that you like.

Step 8. Attach the front hook in the vise, This fly does not need much weight as you want it to swim freely without much drop when it hits the water but 10 wraps of .25 lead will help it get down a bit when it hits the water.

Step 9. I wrap down some articulation wire and then slide on 3 holographic beads and attach the back hook. I bring the tag end of the wire through the beads and then tie down again and clip the excess wire.

Step 10. Tie in some more Hackle Flash and tie off at the halfway point of the hook shank.

Step 11. You will repeat the process of the craft fur as you did on the back hook tying it backwards style.

Step 12. Push the craft fur backward and tie down again as you did on the back hook.

Step 13. Repeat the process on the back hook adding flashabou and a grizzly feather on each side. I have used blue grizzly hackles here as this is one of my favorite chub imitation flies but you can use any color you wish.

Step 14. Take a clump of Senyo Laser dub and pull the clump together over and over again to align the fibers. Stick the clump over the hook eye so that it is evenly distributed on the top and bottom of the shank.

Step 15. Fold the fobers backward and tie down. At this point I also put two half hitches to hold the clump in place. Brush the laser dub backward well and advance your thread a bit.

Step 16. Repeat the process with the olive and gray laser dub aligning the fibers. Take the olive clump and lay it on the top of the shank and the gray on the bottom. Take one or two loose wraps of thread to collect the material and then wrap it tightly two or three times.

Step 17. Push the laster dub back and wrap four or five times in front of it to lock in the material. Whip finish twice and apply glue or cement. Thoroughly brush the head making it smooth and clump free. I actually don’t put eyes on this fly but you can if you wish. The fly actually fishes better without eyes because the laser dub mop head really pushes water and gives the fly a nice side to side movement.

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