Fly of the Month – Sallie Verde

Note from J. Stockard: For the cover of our 2019 Catalog we reached out to J Stockard Pro Tyers,  John and Katie Demuth of Kingsport TN, to create a unique fly for us.

Here you have it – The Sallie Verde – our Catalog Cover Star and Fly of the Month for January! John designed and tied the fly; Katie photographed it. You can find the tying instructions below.

 

 

 

 

J. Stockard Pro Tyers: John and Katie Demuth, Kingsport, TN, find them on Instagram

Fly name: Sallie Verde (Our variation of a Yellow Sally)

The Yellow Sally is a fly we go to when fishing in the small streams of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park for native trout. Katie is originally from that area, and spent the summers at her family cabin near those streams. She and John learned to fly fish together on those very streams.

In the Smokies, the Yellow Sallies hatch from the last of May to the second week of July. One species hatch the last two or three weeks of September. The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has a very diverse population of stoneflies of any area of the United States, and the trout there love them. Of all the species of stoneflies, the Little Yellow Stoneflies are one of the most important ones for anglers to imitate when fishing the Smokies.

John enjoys creating variations on the fly, and Katie photographs the flies using a macro lens on her Canon DSLR. For those who are interested in photographing flies, she used an EF 100 mm macro lens with an external flash and manual settings at 1/30 sec., f/16, and ISO at 100.

With our variation of the fly, we chose to change the name to Sallie Verde in honor of John’s mother, “Sallie,” and it’s unique green color.

Recipe:

Hook: AHREX FW 531 or Mustad C49S, size 14
Thread: UTC 70 Fl. Fire Orange (hot spot), UTC 70 Dark Brown
Body: Forest Green Stripped Peacock Quill (Polish Quill)
Thorax: FrankenDub Nymph Dubbing Olive
Wing: Light Yellow CDC, Yellow and Brown Nature’s Spirit Select Cow Elk
Hackle: Whiting Furnace
UV Resin

Tying steps:

1.Start the UTC 70 Fire Orange thread at the 1/3 point from the hook eye. Dress the hook with open wraps down to the hook bend.

2. Create a small thread ball 1/4 of the way down in the hook bend.  With open spiral wraps, return in the thread to where you tied your thread in. Finish with a two-turn whip finish, and cut your thread.

3. Apply a layer of UV thin resin only to the thread ball. Use your bodkin to remove excess resin from the hook shank. Cure with UV torch. Now the hotspot is complete.

4. Start the UTC 70 Dark Brown thread at your initial tie-in point. Use open spiral wraps while maintaining a smooth body and take the thread back to your hot-spot.

5. Moisten the Forest Green Stripped Peacock Quill (Polish Quill) using your mouth and tie it in with your thread with the black edge facing down where the quill begins to taper right beside the hot-spot.

6. Spin your bobbin counter-clockwise to open up the thread so that it says flat. Wrap your thread back to your initial tie-in point with touching wraps, watching to ensure you keep the underbody smooth.

7. Using hackle pliers grip the tip of the Polish Quill and begin to wrap so that the black edge slightly overlaps each preceding wrap. Keep wrapping until you either reach your initial tie-in point or run out of quill.

8. Tie off the quill with two wraps of your thread behind the quill, followed by one wrap in front, then carefully snip or break off the excess piece of quill. Make two more wraps to lock the quill in securely.

9. Advance the thread with open wraps to the hook eye. Using “thin” UV resin, apply a thin coat to the Polish Quill up to the edge of the hot-spot. Make sure not to apply additional resin to the hot-spot. Use your bodkin to smooth out the resin, then cure with a UV torch.

10. Unwrap the thread to just before where the resin starts to expose the hook shank. Then wrap your thread towards the hook bend to where you tied off the quill. Take a very small pinch of FrankenDub Dubbing in Olive and build a thin dubbing noodle on your thread, roughly 3/4 of an inch long. Make 2-3 wraps of your dubbing noodle at the base of the Polish Quill, then stop with bare thread on the hook eye side right next to the small ball of dubbing.

11.  Prepare 3 light yellow CDC feathers by aligning them by the tips.  Stroke all the fibers towards the tips and tie on the hook with two loose wraps right beside your dubbing ball.  When you tie them in, make sure they are well past the hook bend so you can pull the butt ends until the tips are aligned with where your hotspot and quill meet.  Now secure the CDC with two tight wraps and trim off the butts.  Make sure your thread ends beside the dubbing ball.

12. Prepare 2/3 yellow and 1/3 brown cow elk hair by cutting off the hide, removing any under fur or short fibers with a comb, and inspecting for any broken ends. The total size should be just smaller than the diameter of a pencil.

13. Roll the cow elk hair in your fingers to mix the bundle, and place the bundle, tips side down, in your hair stacker. (Use the smallest stacker you have that will still allow for the hair to easily slide in). Stack the hair using the stacker.

14. Remove the hair by the tips with your left hand from the stacker. Grasp the butts with your right hand and hold the hair over the top of your hook to measure it so that the tips fall slightly past the bend of the hook. With your left hand, hold the hair securely while you make one loose wrap, followed by another wrap and pull tight, ensuring not to break or fray your thread. Make one more tight wrap.

15. Now grab 1/3 of the butts with your left hand and pull them back towards the bend side of the hook and make a tight wrap in front of the pulled back pieces, working the thread towards the hook eye. Pull back another 1/3 of the butts and repeat process. Pull up the remaining butts and make a final wrap in front of the butts on the bare hook shank just behind the hook eye.

16. Using sharp scissors, cut the butts off close, at an angle, from your initial three wraps down to the hook eye. Make sure there is no material touching or overlapping the hook eye. If needed, use sharp scissors to clean up the angled cut to remove any stray pieces sticking out.

17. Using loose open spiral thread wraps, work your thread back towards where the hair was initially tied in. Wax the thread. Grasp the tips of the hair with your left hand, and make tight touching wraps to smoothly cover the butts that were cut off back towards the hook eye, using minimal thread wraps just behind the hook eye. Work the thread back up over the smooth ramp to fill in any remaining gaps.

18. Use a hackle gage or the fly to find the correct length for a furnace hackle. With the shiny side of hackle facing you, strip all the fibers off the right hand side of the feather. (This is an optional step. If you choose not to strip the feather, lightly dub the ramp after you tie in the hackle feather). With the shiny side facing you, and the fibers pointing down, tie the feather in at the base of the elk hair. (This is when you will apply the dubbing if you did not strip the feather). Wrap your thread to just before the eye of the hook, locking in the stem of your hackle. Wrap the hackle towards the hook eye, with touching wraps until you meet the thread. Lock the hackle feather in, using two wraps of thread behind the last hackle wrap, and two in front. Closely snip off the excess hackle stem. Wrap behind the hook eye to cover any remaining exposed stem and create a nice head. Make a 4 turn whip finish and cut the thread. Apply resin to the thread in front of the hook eye and cure with torch.

The options are endless, but I like to add some krystal flash for the underwing.

5 thoughts on “Fly of the Month – Sallie Verde

  1. Paul

    Nice tie. Yellow Sallies, like all Stone flies ride flush with the surface of the water. How does this fly ride on the surface? As with all fishing flies, presentation is critical for a fish to take the offering. You can have all the other aspects (i.e. color,size) of a fly off a bit, but mess up the presentation and you can forget catching fish. The hackle at the front of this fly would make it ride high. Correct? Do you recommend cutting the hackle flush on the bottom of the hook? If not, why? How do you fish this particular pattern? Thanks in advance

    Reply

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