Category Archives: Fly Fishing Gear

Stick It Where The Sun Shines

Guest Blogger: Michael Vorhis, author of ARCHANGEL suspense thriller, OPEN DISTANCE adventure thriller & more to come

Figure 1: Loops

We’ve all acquired fly line or sink tip material that lacks end loops, or have blown through such a loop for one reason or another–either by putting too much pressure on a snag, or having a small-diameter leader cut through the loop material, or any of a number of ways to blow one out. Or we’ve attempted to tune our cast by modifying the taper of a given line by cutting off some of the line on the end, and now we need a new loop. Or we’ve sought to resurrect portions of a worn out line by using lengths of it as floating or sinking tip material, and each section needs loops. Or we’ve bought lines that have loops so small we can barely get the knot of a perfection loop through them. Or we’ve caught the belly of a good line on volcanic rock and damaged it to the point that we’d like to splice or loop-to-loop it back together.The point is that we’ve all had reason to want to add a loop to a line, or to repair a loop, or to otherwise join two line portions together. We could go old-school–nail-knots and bits of heavier mono–and that can be very strong…but once the ease of an integral line-loop is tasted, many of us prefer that cleaner-flex-profile configuration. We could tie perfection loops and coat the knots with goo, but those knots get big and our tip guides stay small. We could buy those after-market add-on loops, but one is never sure how well they’ll hold, and they introduce an anomaly in the line (as far as floating and degree of stiffness go), and they’re not necessarily an installable solution while on the stream. We could use epoxy to make a loop and suffer an overnight wait and a stiff section of line where it’s applied. We could trust superglue, equally stiff, but when it flexes the bond may break. We could follow those convoluted thirteen-step advice videos that would have us applying an open flame to the plastic coating of the line and melting ourselves a loop, subsequently to wonder whether we’d heated it too much or too little and how much it will really now hold. more…

How To Get Speyed – Part 3

Guest Blogger: Michael Vorhis, author of ARCHANGEL suspense thriller, OPEN DISTANCE adventure thriller & more to come

Part 2 of this article discussed Spey rod and tip technologies. This final segment rounds out the basic tips discussion, mentions leaders, reels and flies, and then takes an irreverent stab at painting a verbal picture of the cast itself.

Many anglers make their own tips from level T-material (which is readily available in cuttable lengths of 30 feet), and a few make floating tips from old floating lines (like I’ve done; and if you’re going to try this, good luck finding new level floating lines in the weight you want anymore! …nobody seems to make level floating lines anymore, and store clerks will literally laugh in your face for asking…but never fear because DT lines will serve–DT floating lines give you a chance to make two tips that have tapers, plus six to ten more that are level…WF lines will be hard to make a tip in the weight you want because the line weight is averaged across that 30 feet of compound WF taper and you won’t know the true weight of any tip you make…plus you’ll waste a whole line making a single tip). more…

How To Get Speyed – Part 2

Guest Blogger: Michael Vorhis, author of ARCHANGEL suspense thriller, OPEN DISTANCE adventure thriller & more to come

Part 1 of this article discussed Spey casting origins, benefits of the style, a sensible approach to entry into the Spey world, and a few very basics of line elements. This segment comments on rod technologies and line setups in more detail, in particular the tangled world of “tips.” (An echoing of the erstwhile shameless prophesy: A truly unique Spey cast “how to” description is coming later in this article! Hang in there….)

Step Three: Rods

Full-sized (non-casting-competition) Spey rods are usually in about the 12.3-foot to 13.75-foot length range. “Switch” rods are shorter (around 11 to 12 feet, very roughly) because of their goals and the difficulty in attempting to single-hand a mile-long rod; only goliath-esque hands and wrists could manage single-handing a 13-footer for very long. Both Spey and Switch rods feature prominent fighting butts, which double as the grip for the off-hand in a two-hand cast. more…